, certainly not bad to have a quick car. Thanks for the info.
My target is to find a decent 98' -00' model. I hope my patience will pay off, otherwise there are quite a few of 91'-97' models around So cal.

 

There are a few deals in the L.A area. Stay patient

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...844512044.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...801662101.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb...813017300.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...829163102.html

 

pmarr, Thank you.
* Option 1, 2 & 4 are above 200k miles, do you think i will find a 98'-00' model with less than 200k miles in that same price range? The mileage scares me a bit, becuase i have not owned a vehicle with more than 150k miles on the clock.
* Option 4 is SOLD unfortunately !

 

My '98 with 195k miles when I bought it now has 206k, paid about $2500 for it. First thing I did was address power steering leaks (was coming mostly from the pump and hoses attached to it). New pump and a few soft lines and an o-ring fixed it - highly documented on the forum. 2nd thing was slowly replacing worn bushings starting with the trans mount, motor mounts, and strut rods. These three things made a huge difference. Then I addressed the leaky valve covers, trans flush and did a timing belt and new pulleys which quieted down the engine a bunch. Along with new tires and other odds/ends I've spent about 2.5k on parts with this damn thing since buying it -- all self-labor. And I still have a bad bushing clunking every now and then somewhere in the front I need to track down. The only thing I bought that wasn't 'needed' were tanabe DF210 springs to fix the sagging rear and 'lifted off-road vehicle' look they tend to have. Unfortunately, it's about due for struts so my wallet will be opening again soon. The tanabe springs very likely could have accelerated the strut and bushing wear, but it's worth it for me.

Honestly I could have just 'driven it' without doing a damn thing (except tires and the PS leaks) and it would probably be OK... but I want it to last and I value having a reliable, safe car that drives well. Any other car with this amount of miles I wouldn't have 1. bought or 2. put a dime into afterwards. The overall lexus quality makes repairs / fixes very rewarding as the original ride quality is just a handful of bushings away. I can literally drive straight for miles down the freeway with just a finger on the wheel.

 

If you are willing to travel you may find what you are looking for and be patient. These pop up weekly. My first was 10 minutes from my house. My other three were in Reno, Hayward and Napa. Each a 2 hour drive from my house but I got what I wanted.

 

Does the vibration also occur when the car is stopped (in park or neutral)? Put your hand on the shifter and feel if it vibrates. If so its the transmission mount. Very easy fix and inexpensive.

So these are, from my experience, things you should check when buying:

Power steering (noises, leaks)
When was the timing belt/water pump changed
Valve cover gaskets
LCD displays
tachometer/speedometer
Sound system (radio, tape, cd changer)
Heated seats
Seatbelt retractor motors

 

Thanks.
I can do most labor myself too. As for the leaks, i'm well aware of it now as lots of members has pointed that out.
As for parts, hopefully i'll get lucky on eBay may get used still functional parts.

 

Yes, that's what I will probably have to do. Looking at a few in neighboring states.

 

Awesome info.

RE: Vibration = The car was on Park mode. I reved the engine till about 2-3k (light rev). The car shakes from side to side a bit. I'm sure if i reved up a bit higher, it will shake a bit more. Some do not know when the timing belt or water pump was replaced. I see lot of sellers trying to flip cars that they bought 2 or 3 months ago, whom i'm trying to avoid.

Question: Some mentioned replacing the EGR valve. Is that a problem area ?