Annoying Clunk Sound- Strut Bar (The Mother thread)
#136
#137
You can get new OEM strut rods at Parts.com for $86.42 each ($125 list)... They have OEM upper control arms for $341.26 each ($493.60 list).
I made the mistake of using aftermarket (Daizen) bushings for the upper and lowers on my car. I won't go with an aftermarket bushing again unless OEM isn't available.
It definitely changed the ride and feel. My uppers squeak sometimes too even though they're brand new. I'm considering replacing the upper arms now with OEM...
The lower control arm Daizen bushings didn't work out at all. I had to replace them with OEM's three weeks after they were installed. There's a lot of front to back stress on that single lower arm and the two part aftermarket bushing couldn't handle it. My front end wouldn't stay in alignment. I've sworn off the aftermarket bushings.
Does anyone know if the UCA's sold by Arnott Industries ($200 for the pair) have OEM bushings in them or polyurethane?
Thanks
I made the mistake of using aftermarket (Daizen) bushings for the upper and lowers on my car. I won't go with an aftermarket bushing again unless OEM isn't available.
It definitely changed the ride and feel. My uppers squeak sometimes too even though they're brand new. I'm considering replacing the upper arms now with OEM...
The lower control arm Daizen bushings didn't work out at all. I had to replace them with OEM's three weeks after they were installed. There's a lot of front to back stress on that single lower arm and the two part aftermarket bushing couldn't handle it. My front end wouldn't stay in alignment. I've sworn off the aftermarket bushings.
Does anyone know if the UCA's sold by Arnott Industries ($200 for the pair) have OEM bushings in them or polyurethane?
Thanks
Great information. Thanks for posting.
What year is your LS? Miles? How warn was the stock lower control arm bushing?
I am now definitely staying stock although the Arnott Ind control arms may fit that description. From their site: "These are identical to the original control arms.These are a complete unit. These include the ball joints and bushings."
The picture looks like stock bearings.
http://www.arnottindustries.com/part...47_gid465.html
#138
report:
roughly a week after install, i must say that ride quality is pretty good, no harshness, car is tracking a LOT better and the front end feels like it's actually connected to the steering wheel.
only downside is a tiny bit of creaking when coming to a hard stop, but i'm thinking it might be my LBJ, but it's a TINY little nitpick, and is only audible coming to a completely stop from >30mph in DEAD silent surroundings with the windows down with the car in neutral (or in Drive in a car without a loud exhaust )
roughly a week after install, i must say that ride quality is pretty good, no harshness, car is tracking a LOT better and the front end feels like it's actually connected to the steering wheel.
only downside is a tiny bit of creaking when coming to a hard stop, but i'm thinking it might be my LBJ, but it's a TINY little nitpick, and is only audible coming to a completely stop from >30mph in DEAD silent surroundings with the windows down with the car in neutral (or in Drive in a car without a loud exhaust )
#139
Jim,
Great information. Thanks for posting.
What year is your LS? Miles? How warn was the stock lower control arm bushing?
I am now definitely staying stock although the Arnott Ind control arms may fit that description. From their site: "These are identical to the original control arms.These are a complete unit. These include the ball joints and bushings."
The picture looks like stock bearings.
http://www.arnottindustries.com/part...47_gid465.html
Great information. Thanks for posting.
What year is your LS? Miles? How warn was the stock lower control arm bushing?
I am now definitely staying stock although the Arnott Ind control arms may fit that description. From their site: "These are identical to the original control arms.These are a complete unit. These include the ball joints and bushings."
The picture looks like stock bearings.
http://www.arnottindustries.com/part...47_gid465.html
My LS is a 1991 with 83k miles. The rubber of the bushings were cracked but they were still intact. I was getting a clunk noise when going slowly over some bumps and sometimes when turning left or right at slow speeds too.
If the Arnott UCA's have stock bushings in them then its a deal that's hard to beat. I spent some time on Arnott's website and they seem like a nice father/son small company. They may even be making their own bushings for these arms. They have a 10,000 SF machine shop that focuses primarily on replacement air suspension systems and suspension conversion kits. If you speak with them and find out any details about the bushings, please let me know.
Thanks
#140
report:
roughly a week after install, i must say that ride quality is pretty good, no harshness, car is tracking a LOT better and the front end feels like it's actually connected to the steering wheel.
only downside is a tiny bit of creaking when coming to a hard stop, but i'm thinking it might be my LBJ, but it's a TINY little nitpick, and is only audible coming to a completely stop from >30mph in DEAD silent surroundings with the windows down with the car in neutral (or in Drive in a car without a loud exhaust )
roughly a week after install, i must say that ride quality is pretty good, no harshness, car is tracking a LOT better and the front end feels like it's actually connected to the steering wheel.
only downside is a tiny bit of creaking when coming to a hard stop, but i'm thinking it might be my LBJ, but it's a TINY little nitpick, and is only audible coming to a completely stop from >30mph in DEAD silent surroundings with the windows down with the car in neutral (or in Drive in a car without a loud exhaust )
I hope you don't end up with sharp squeaks from the poly UCA's like I have now. It happens over abrupt bumps at pretty much any speed. It's unacceptable to me. They started doing it maybe 6-8 weeks after being installed. They were greased up really well when they were installed. Someone talked about not tourquing the UCA bolts until the car was back on the ground with the vehicle's weight on the suspension, opposed to tightening them when it's still up on the lift/jack. I don't know if this would make any difference, or if this was even part of the instructions that came with the Daizen kit. I don't remember seeing any reference to it.
Jim
#142
#143
#145
yeah, it dies over time, but the one i've noticed that the bushing that commonly goes out is the carrier arm bushing, it's the bushing on the knuckle that the other end of that bar bolts to.
#146
Description: Rear Axle Carrier & Lateral Arm Polyurethane Bushing Kit. This is an aftermarket replacement kit and replaces the o.e.m. bushings on either end of the lateral arm.
Includes: 1 Kit = 2 Bushings
Kits needed=2 for both sides
I haven't seen a drawing anywhere that actually shows a picture or gives a part number for that specific bushing (open end of #9 below)
Thanks
Last edited by JimsGX; 04-02-09 at 07:53 AM.
#147
Do you mean the bushing on the right that comes as part of this kit? So do you know if an OEM replacement is available for it? Is the original pressed in or is it easily removeable?
Description: Rear Axle Carrier & Lateral Arm Polyurethane Bushing Kit. This is an aftermarket replacement kit and replaces the o.e.m. bushings on either end of the lateral arm.
Includes: 1 Kit = 2 Bushings
Kits needed=2 for both sides
I haven't seen a drawing anywhere that actually shows a picture or gives a part number for that specific bushing (open end of #9 below)
Thanks
Description: Rear Axle Carrier & Lateral Arm Polyurethane Bushing Kit. This is an aftermarket replacement kit and replaces the o.e.m. bushings on either end of the lateral arm.
Includes: 1 Kit = 2 Bushings
Kits needed=2 for both sides
I haven't seen a drawing anywhere that actually shows a picture or gives a part number for that specific bushing (open end of #9 below)
Thanks
the lateral arm one needs a hydraulic press to change, the rear carrier arm bushing requires only a pair of 2jaw/3jaw pullers and a 33mm punch.
No, iirc there is no oem replacement bushing available, you would have to buy the complete lateral arm and rear carrier in order to get new bushings.
rear lateral arms (for 2nd gen) list for ~$113/each, rear carriers (knuckles) list for ~$235/each.
i'd just get bushings for these.
Last edited by PureDrifter; 04-02-09 at 08:50 AM.
#148
9 is the bushings that i don't commonly see going out, the mount at the bottom of part no.2 is the one that i am referring to and is the "carrier arm bushing" and is the one that lexls changed in his tutorial. the lateral arm is the one at the closed end of no.9.
the lateral arm one needs a hydraulic press to change, the rear carrier arm bushing requires only a pair of 2jaw/3jaw pullers and a 33mm punch.
No, iirc there is no oem replacement bushing available, you would have to buy the complete lateral arm and rear carrier in order to get new bushings.
rear lateral arms (for 2nd gen) list for ~$113/each, rear carriers (knuckles) list for ~$235/each.
i'd just get bushings for these.
the lateral arm one needs a hydraulic press to change, the rear carrier arm bushing requires only a pair of 2jaw/3jaw pullers and a 33mm punch.
No, iirc there is no oem replacement bushing available, you would have to buy the complete lateral arm and rear carrier in order to get new bushings.
rear lateral arms (for 2nd gen) list for ~$113/each, rear carriers (knuckles) list for ~$235/each.
i'd just get bushings for these.
How would I check to see if the carrier arm/lateral arm bushings are bad? By jacking up the rear and trying to move the rear wheel from front to back?
Thx