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Annoying Clunk Sound- Strut Bar (The Mother thread)

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Old 03-27-09, 01:43 PM
  #136  
steveski
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Originally Posted by smokincigs
So it didnt fix the clunk?


Yeas - curious if your clunk was fixed. My clunk long ago was lower ball joints - sorry to high jack the thread but curious now if clunk is gone?
Old 03-31-09, 09:11 PM
  #137  
JBrady
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Originally Posted by JimsGX
You can get new OEM strut rods at Parts.com for $86.42 each ($125 list)... They have OEM upper control arms for $341.26 each ($493.60 list).

I made the mistake of using aftermarket (Daizen) bushings for the upper and lowers on my car. I won't go with an aftermarket bushing again unless OEM isn't available.

It definitely changed the ride and feel. My uppers squeak sometimes too even though they're brand new. I'm considering replacing the upper arms now with OEM...

The lower control arm Daizen bushings didn't work out at all. I had to replace them with OEM's three weeks after they were installed. There's a lot of front to back stress on that single lower arm and the two part aftermarket bushing couldn't handle it. My front end wouldn't stay in alignment. I've sworn off the aftermarket bushings.

Does anyone know if the UCA's sold by Arnott Industries ($200 for the pair) have OEM bushings in them or polyurethane?

Thanks
Jim,

Great information. Thanks for posting.

What year is your LS? Miles? How warn was the stock lower control arm bushing?

I am now definitely staying stock although the Arnott Ind control arms may fit that description. From their site: "These are identical to the original control arms.These are a complete unit. These include the ball joints and bushings."

The picture looks like stock bearings.

http://www.arnottindustries.com/part...47_gid465.html

Old 03-31-09, 10:28 PM
  #138  
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report:

roughly a week after install, i must say that ride quality is pretty good, no harshness, car is tracking a LOT better and the front end feels like it's actually connected to the steering wheel.

only downside is a tiny bit of creaking when coming to a hard stop, but i'm thinking it might be my LBJ, but it's a TINY little nitpick, and is only audible coming to a completely stop from >30mph in DEAD silent surroundings with the windows down with the car in neutral (or in Drive in a car without a loud exhaust )
Old 04-01-09, 07:20 PM
  #139  
JimsGX
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Originally Posted by jbrady
Jim,

Great information. Thanks for posting.

What year is your LS? Miles? How warn was the stock lower control arm bushing?

I am now definitely staying stock although the Arnott Ind control arms may fit that description. From their site: "These are identical to the original control arms.These are a complete unit. These include the ball joints and bushings."

The picture looks like stock bearings.

http://www.arnottindustries.com/part...47_gid465.html

Hi,

My LS is a 1991 with 83k miles. The rubber of the bushings were cracked but they were still intact. I was getting a clunk noise when going slowly over some bumps and sometimes when turning left or right at slow speeds too.

If the Arnott UCA's have stock bushings in them then its a deal that's hard to beat. I spent some time on Arnott's website and they seem like a nice father/son small company. They may even be making their own bushings for these arms. They have a 10,000 SF machine shop that focuses primarily on replacement air suspension systems and suspension conversion kits. If you speak with them and find out any details about the bushings, please let me know.

Thanks
Old 04-01-09, 07:34 PM
  #140  
JimsGX
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
report:

roughly a week after install, i must say that ride quality is pretty good, no harshness, car is tracking a LOT better and the front end feels like it's actually connected to the steering wheel.

only downside is a tiny bit of creaking when coming to a hard stop, but i'm thinking it might be my LBJ, but it's a TINY little nitpick, and is only audible coming to a completely stop from >30mph in DEAD silent surroundings with the windows down with the car in neutral (or in Drive in a car without a loud exhaust )
PureDrfter,

I hope you don't end up with sharp squeaks from the poly UCA's like I have now. It happens over abrupt bumps at pretty much any speed. It's unacceptable to me. They started doing it maybe 6-8 weeks after being installed. They were greased up really well when they were installed. Someone talked about not tourquing the UCA bolts until the car was back on the ground with the vehicle's weight on the suspension, opposed to tightening them when it's still up on the lift/jack. I don't know if this would make any difference, or if this was even part of the instructions that came with the Daizen kit. I don't remember seeing any reference to it.

Jim
Old 04-01-09, 08:00 PM
  #141  
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i didnt do poly in the UCAs, i did poly strut rod bushings. poly UCAs would be too stiff
Old 04-01-09, 08:06 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
i didnt do poly in the UCAs, i did poly strut rod bushings. poly UCAs would be too stiff
Tell me about it! I learned the hard way... I'm doing new rear OEM strut rods in the next couple of weeks.
Old 04-01-09, 10:06 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by JimsGX
Tell me about it! I learned the hard way... I'm doing new rear OEM strut rods in the next couple of weeks.
but it's not the rods so much as the rear carrier arm bushings that connect to the arm that go out
Old 04-01-09, 10:18 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
but it's not the rods so much as the rear carrier arm bushings that connect to the arm that go out
This bushing on the end of this strut rod, correct?

Old 04-01-09, 11:31 PM
  #145  
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yeah, it dies over time, but the one i've noticed that the bushing that commonly goes out is the carrier arm bushing, it's the bushing on the knuckle that the other end of that bar bolts to.
Old 04-02-09, 07:44 AM
  #146  
JimsGX
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
yeah, it dies over time, but the one i've noticed that the bushing that commonly goes out is the carrier arm bushing, it's the bushing on the knuckle that the other end of that bar bolts to.
Do you mean the bushing on the right that comes as part of this kit? So do you know if an OEM replacement is available for it? Is the original pressed in or is it easily removeable?



Description: Rear Axle Carrier & Lateral Arm Polyurethane Bushing Kit. This is an aftermarket replacement kit and replaces the o.e.m. bushings on either end of the lateral arm.
Includes: 1 Kit = 2 Bushings

Kits needed=2 for both sides

I haven't seen a drawing anywhere that actually shows a picture or gives a part number for that specific bushing (open end of #9 below)



Thanks

Last edited by JimsGX; 04-02-09 at 07:53 AM.
Old 04-02-09, 08:45 AM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by JimsGX
Do you mean the bushing on the right that comes as part of this kit? So do you know if an OEM replacement is available for it? Is the original pressed in or is it easily removeable?



Description: Rear Axle Carrier & Lateral Arm Polyurethane Bushing Kit. This is an aftermarket replacement kit and replaces the o.e.m. bushings on either end of the lateral arm.
Includes: 1 Kit = 2 Bushings

Kits needed=2 for both sides

I haven't seen a drawing anywhere that actually shows a picture or gives a part number for that specific bushing (open end of #9 below)



Thanks
9 is the bushings that i don't commonly see going out, the mount at the bottom of part no.2 is the one that i am referring to and is the "carrier arm bushing" and is the one that lexls changed in his tutorial. the lateral arm is the one at the closed end of no.9.

the lateral arm one needs a hydraulic press to change, the rear carrier arm bushing requires only a pair of 2jaw/3jaw pullers and a 33mm punch.

No, iirc there is no oem replacement bushing available, you would have to buy the complete lateral arm and rear carrier in order to get new bushings.

rear lateral arms (for 2nd gen) list for ~$113/each, rear carriers (knuckles) list for ~$235/each.

i'd just get bushings for these.

Last edited by PureDrifter; 04-02-09 at 08:50 AM.
Old 04-02-09, 08:52 PM
  #148  
JimsGX
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
9 is the bushings that i don't commonly see going out, the mount at the bottom of part no.2 is the one that i am referring to and is the "carrier arm bushing" and is the one that lexls changed in his tutorial. the lateral arm is the one at the closed end of no.9.

the lateral arm one needs a hydraulic press to change, the rear carrier arm bushing requires only a pair of 2jaw/3jaw pullers and a 33mm punch.

No, iirc there is no oem replacement bushing available, you would have to buy the complete lateral arm and rear carrier in order to get new bushings.

rear lateral arms (for 2nd gen) list for ~$113/each, rear carriers (knuckles) list for ~$235/each.

i'd just get bushings for these.
Okay, so the picture on the previous post of the kit from L-TunedParts would take care of the lateral arm and carrier arm...

How would I check to see if the carrier arm/lateral arm bushings are bad? By jacking up the rear and trying to move the rear wheel from front to back?

Thx
Old 04-02-09, 09:11 PM
  #149  
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jack it up, take a prybar and put some pressure on the bar to see if the bushings are torn.
Old 04-02-09, 09:30 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
jack it up, take a prybar and put some pressure on the bar to see if the bushings are torn.
Will do! Thanks!


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