TaffyK20si

Yeah I've been dreading the install under load. May just use my jack on the spindle if there is room. If not I'll have to break out some boards or something.
About the clocking, I just now thought about it, but I should be able to replicate how the new ones go it by comparing to how the old ones sit in the arm. Duh lol
Is there a certain part that needs to be marked for the caster alignment or is it pretty much a no brainer once you're down there?

Eds98LS

That should work! I'm sure the tech's at my toyo dealer did the same.

From memory...the metal washer looking deal (alignment piece) on the arm sits in a slot and that slot has notches at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. I just drew a line from the notch in, then when I reinstalled that metal thing I matched the black lines with the notches. They generally stay put once you tighten the nut (or bolt, can't recall!)

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

caster will have to be reset after as the new bushings will deflect less than the old. (meaning yes, you will need to realign.)

the "bump" or extra "notch" of rubber should be 90* to the arm, pointing DOWN once the arm is installed. (as per FSM SA-34)

TaffyK20si

Thanks for the help guys! About to take off work for the day and get this done. Taking the strut rods to my friend with a machine shop to get the bushings pressed out and in.
And yes, alignment will be a must. I just want to make sure I've solved my issue before I have it aligned. May look at lower ball joint next if problem persists.

TaffyK20si

OH WOW! Favorite thing I've done to my car yet. All my shutters are gone, noises gone, I even feel like my tires don't rub my fender liners as bad. Love it!

j5ive

Hi all,

New owner of a 96 LS400. Can someone help take a best guess as to which component I need to replace?

* Heavy clunking sound when entering (and sometimes exiting) driveways, and hitting speed bumps.
* When braking hard to a stop, I can feel the front end shimmy left to right.
* When taking a turn (like a right turn at intersection) with a bit of speed, the car pushes out a step in the middle of the turn.

Thanks for your help.



**** Update

Just an update on my car for those who may have similar symptoms. My mechanic took the car to his front end guy. The strut rod bushings were shot. The lower ball joints were going, but no where as bad. Both items were replaced on both sides of the car and a front alignment done. I've been told the symptoms are all gone. (told because I haven't driven the car since. But my wife seems happy with the changes.)

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The first in this suspension is the strut bar bushings. Any other residual issues then go to sway bar bushings, tie rods, upper and lower ball joints and control arms. Depends on miles and how long the neglected issues have been let go. If this car has not had any suspension service, my list for a one shot deal to start:

Strut bar bushings
Tie rod ends
Lower ball joints
Your mechanic will be able to test the other areas when the parts are removed.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Sway bar links, which I don't hear mentioned often, are another one that can cause popping sounds.

j5ive

Thanks guys. Will check strut bar and sway bar bushings first. Hope it's just one of these as they'd be easier and cheaper to replace. On one of the previous cars I've owned, I had sway bar bushings go and it made s clunk as well.

j2b4o

I had almost the same symptoms and I also had some slight wandering during highway driving. Mine is a first gen so the strut bar is different but the main culprit for all the clunking and front end movement on mine was the upper ball joints. The wheel could move about 1/4" in and out freely with the car sitting on the ground.

Just mentioning it so you don't overlook the upper ball joint while diagnosing.

LScowboyLS

I would say upper control arms (some folks call this component an upper ball joint) would be the second most likely item to go bad in an LS400 front end after the strut bar bushings.

Fullmetal

im planning to change my strut rod bushings, any tips on how to press in and out the bushings? is the 3 jaw puller good? or should i buy the entire rod with bushings?

also on my outter tie rod bushing, there seems to be some grease leaking. is this normal? the bushing itself looks fine no cracks just a little leaking out when you squeeze it.

thanks.

LScowboyLS

a 3 jaw puller?? - I use a hydraulic press

just take it to your local machine shop and spend $10 for these services, that is what they do, and they are good at it! - just make sure to bring the page from the factory service manual that shows the correct orientation of the bushing, so they get it aligned at 0 degrees - that diagram has been posted on Club Lexus before, find it and print it out to take with you for them to use.


the outer tie rods are cheap, even the real Toyota ones, I would just replace them and enjoy the new tighter steering as a result!

Fullmetal

ok i got you. thanks alot. should i change the ball joint too? it looks fine though.

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

I was looking at the "strut bar cushion" on sewell's site. They have them for $199.74 each. This seems extreme for this type of part, or am I wrong? Thats a little over $400 for two bushings!