Door lock actuator motor ?
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Door lock actuator motor ?
Hey guys, I bought a motor to replace my factory one on the drivers door lock actuator motor, I tear into it ready to fix the problem of always unlocking it manually, only to find that I bought the wrong motor. I need one with a spline shaft and a gear and it has different electrical connections. Does anyone know where I can get the right motor? I checked all the websites in the sticky section.
thanks in advance, Bradley
#3
Lexus Test Driver
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In my experience with these things, usually the motor fails due to the brushes wearing out and the powdered carbon residue building up. This is all on the back end (opposite the gear / shaft).
Of course, getting the exact right motor would be best. But you might be able to transplant the new back end to the old motor. Maybe start with the old motor and try to pop the plastic back end off. If you think that went well, you can try to take the back end off the new motor and press it on. You'll want to transplant as many new parts as you can easily do. Also careful to clean out the powdered Carbon residue.
You'll also want to confirm that the motor spins the same way as the original, whether you do this transplant idea or get a whole new motor. I typically use a 12V cordless power tool battery with wires and paperclips to do that sort of testing. But a 9V battery will at least confirm if the direction is the same.
Is the original motor a Mabuchi?
Related question - on my '91, all the actuators still work fine, but it used to be that using the key in the driver's door would unlock the other doors (maybe I had to turn it twice or something like that, but it would work). No longer. Key in the passenger door will unlock all 4 doors. While you're in there, can you see anything that might be able to cause this situation? I probably need to just take it apart and look.
Of course, getting the exact right motor would be best. But you might be able to transplant the new back end to the old motor. Maybe start with the old motor and try to pop the plastic back end off. If you think that went well, you can try to take the back end off the new motor and press it on. You'll want to transplant as many new parts as you can easily do. Also careful to clean out the powdered Carbon residue.
You'll also want to confirm that the motor spins the same way as the original, whether you do this transplant idea or get a whole new motor. I typically use a 12V cordless power tool battery with wires and paperclips to do that sort of testing. But a 9V battery will at least confirm if the direction is the same.
Is the original motor a Mabuchi?
Related question - on my '91, all the actuators still work fine, but it used to be that using the key in the driver's door would unlock the other doors (maybe I had to turn it twice or something like that, but it would work). No longer. Key in the passenger door will unlock all 4 doors. While you're in there, can you see anything that might be able to cause this situation? I probably need to just take it apart and look.
#4
Pole Position
Related question - on my '91, all the actuators still work fine, but it used to be that using the key in the driver's door would unlock the other doors (maybe I had to turn it twice or something like that, but it would work). No longer. Key in the passenger door will unlock all 4 doors. While you're in there, can you see anything that might be able to cause this situation? I probably need to just take it apart and look.
#5
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It is turn key twice to unlock all 4 doors. I think the common problem for the key not working is pretty much dirt and grease all gummed up in the lock. On my 93 my doors would keep locking and unlocking by themselves all night long without the key installed until I sprayed some cleaner in it. If the car was running it didn't do it. I don't remember what I used but it might have just been brake cleaner. I know there's some posts on here about that very problem so search before spraying anything in there. Ya don't want to use something that will mess it up more.
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