3d914

Just finished attempting to install the EGR Delete kit (found on Ebay). I think the kit is a great idea, just turned out to be overkill for my 95 California car. The kit intends that several parts can be deleted; EGR VSV, Fuel Pressure VSV, and EGR Valve, along with several vacuum hoses off the top of the throttle body. It also involves adding a resistor at the EGR temperature connector.

To start with I already had the exhaust end of the EGR pipe removed and plugged the exhaust manifold. I just cut the mounting bracket off the tube and flood welded the hole to fill it. It then went back on the exhaust manifold, just ahead of the cat (passenger side). Even though I crimped the remaining tube to prevent air from getting into the EGR tube, I was now getting a CEL from the EGR temp sensor (at the base of the EGR valve).

The kit provided the plates needed to close off the EGR ports in the intake plenum & the plates to close off EGR tube input to the plenum. It also includes some vacuum and coolant hoses - which I didn't need. Here's what the 95 LS400 for CA looks like.


The EGR valve is upper-center and the two VSV's are down & to the right & left. Neither VSV ties to the EGR, so I can only assume that this model (or for CA) it's been eliminated. The manual has very little on the EGR system. The EGR valve has two coolant hoses - one from the front, the other out the back. So off comes the coolant hoses and the EGR valve. If you keep the hoses turned up, they won't leak coolant.



Now you can see clearly the stock backing plate sits behind the EGR valve. Out the bottom of the plate is the EGR temp sensor and the mounting bracket for its connector is at the low-left of the plate. A key component of the backing plate is the PCV hose nipple. This vents the crank to the intake plenum. Unfortunately though, the plate the kit included would replace this backing plate and the PCV hose nipple.

So here's the EGR valve and temp sensor removed.


Next was to remove the EGR backing plate and find a way to correct for the loss of the PCV connection. My solution was to mount the new EGR blocking plate behind the stock backing plate. I just needed to drill a hole for the PCV so it could still vent properly. So here's the stock backing plate with temp sensor at the bottom (left) and the new blocking plate (right). I just used the metal gasket as a guide for the PCV hole.



Using a 3/8's drill to add the hole, I can now mount the blocking plate behind the backing plate. The EGR paths will be blocked as intended, but the PCV will not.



With the plates installed, the EGR vent areas are completely blocked. I also removed the temp sensor.



The resistor from the kit goes in the ECU connector (two-wire connector) of the temp sensor. This should get taped up so the resistor doesn't work loose. Instead of replacing the water lines with a single line - by-passing the EGR valve, I decided to reinstall the valve and let the water flow through it normally. This turned out to be beneficial for a couple of reasons; 1 - the hose provide in the kit was 1/4 ID, but I needed 3/8 ID, and 2 - it threw a CEL code without the EGR valve connected to the harness. So I just installed it on the backing plate as normal and no CEL. (Pic was taken before connecting the EGR valve connector)



The last step was to remove the EGR pipe. However, this really isn't necessary. All that was needed was to remove the one end at the intake plenum, and slide in the blocking plate provided in the kit, then reattach the pipe.



So far, once the CEL was cleared, it has yet to show up again. I have a couple of short 60-mile trips coming up this weekend, so we'll see how it goes.

If I had to do it over again I wouldn't bother with the kit since I have the tools I could have fabricated the blocking plates. But for others who don't have the tools or metal - it's probably worth it. For my CA model I left both VSV's installed since they didn't affect the EGR system in any way.

Hope this helps someone else considering the EGR delete.

lexteme

Good write-up and pics. Yeah, sounds like you could have done without the kit since you didn't necessarily want to delete the entire system and also had the skills, tools and materials for fab'ing your own stuff. One of the main benefits for many is having a cleaner engine bay. For anyone who wants to quickly and effectively completely delete the entire system and all related components, our kit has been very much appreciated. We've improved the instructions and some of the hardware included. I don't know how much longer we'll produce the kit as the parts keep increasing in cost, while we've kept the same price through the years.

These kits are no longer available on eBay but are right on our website for anyone interested.

CELSI0R

Really great solution, Lextreme. Very glad to see this is being offered

I noticed OP mentioned he had to reconnect the EGR solenoid to prevent the CEL from being an issue. Does the kit support 1990-1992 models with the older, vacuum operated EGR system?

Meaning that if my EGR pipe failed, I could disable the system but also not have a CEL constantly on for the EGR?

Thank you

lexteme

That is correct. The kit is specifically for the 90-94 1UZ (though with a little modification it'll work for newer models as well - we're working on getting a kit made specifically for 2nd gen).

You can see a pic of everything that's included (though I did forget to put the resistor in the pic - it's included as well).

The kit allows you to cap/remove the redundant vacuum lines and the resistor goes between the temp probe/thermistor on the EGR to fool the ECU into thinking that the EGR is open and hot.