LCA bushing 4865450010
02-15-17, 01:05 AM
#32
Moderator
Thread Starter
Ironically the local Toyota dealer I bought mine from just recently started selling parts via a web presence.
https://parts.righttoyota.com/
This is actually how I found the bushings locally. I typed 4867450051 into Google and their site came up. I didn't know they sold parts via a website until that day. Now when I type 4867450051 into the search box of their website it returns nothing!
I also buy parts from Bell Lexus in North Scottsdale as they are a mere 3 miles from my house. When researching parts online I often see Bell Lexus show up on both Amazon and eBay. Give them a call as they are obviously serious about moving parts via different avenues... 480.502-5000
http://stores.ebay.com/belllexusnorthscottsdale/
https://parts.righttoyota.com/
This is actually how I found the bushings locally. I typed 4867450051 into Google and their site came up. I didn't know they sold parts via a website until that day. Now when I type 4867450051 into the search box of their website it returns nothing!
I also buy parts from Bell Lexus in North Scottsdale as they are a mere 3 miles from my house. When researching parts online I often see Bell Lexus show up on both Amazon and eBay. Give them a call as they are obviously serious about moving parts via different avenues... 480.502-5000
http://stores.ebay.com/belllexusnorthscottsdale/
02-15-17, 09:02 AM
#33
The part number for the UCF20 strut bar cushions is 48674-40051. They are still available, as is the whole bar if you choose to go that route.
02-15-17, 04:15 PM
#36
I've got the p/n 48674-50051 from Bradland's post #15 so I was looking for that one & all of the dealers told me it's obsoleted. I've just double-checked p/n 48674-40051 via parts.com & yes, it's the correct bushing I need for my 97 Lexus LS400 & it's still available.
Thanks everyone ... except Bradland
Thanks everyone ... except Bradland
Last edited by Superfast1; 02-15-17 at 04:18 PM.
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spuds (06-09-21)
03-29-17, 04:20 PM
#40
Unlike the 95-00 cars, there is no doubt that for the 90-94 cars, these are separate, replaceable parts sold by Lexus.
Visually they match the Febest ones from Billy's link earlier:
https://febestparts.com/ARM_BUSHING_...ER_ARM/TAB-173
Are there any special measurements anyone would like before they're installed?
BTW, the symptom I've got is the clunking on slow sharp turns like Billy reported as well.
03-30-17, 12:50 AM
#41
Moderator
Thread Starter
Yes please if you have a dial caliper to measure the outside diameter of the entire bushing it would be very helpful. Although the lower control arm has changed slightly over the years, 1989 -2000, I suspect the bushing has remained the same.....?
03-30-17, 09:13 PM
#43
I installed both sides today, so it's all done. The only calipers I have at this house are just mechanical, claiming .01" accuracy, sorry, not metric.
The first pic is a quick drawing with the dimensions. All dimensions in inches. Bore diameter is 0.645. Overall length of the Aluminum tube is 2.595. Other dimensions are as shown in the pic. Diameter varies with two clear bands (0.845 and 0.850) at the left and right end of the mating surface, with a shallower channel (0.830) in between. I think I can see this in Billy's photos too.
Here's a photo corresponding to the sketch, I hope the bevel and shallower middle channel are clear here.
They went in with no problem at all. Exact match with what came out. There is a bevel on the leading edge to facilitate the start.
Here's a tip for anyone doing this job, certainly on the early cars, maybe on the later as well - ignore the service manual. It tells you to basically remove the entire front suspension to get this part out. Seriously. I started following the instructions, and then bailed. When I did the second side, I was able to get the arm out without removing ANYTHING other than the arm and the screws/bolts/nuts that directly hold it in place (including the lower ball joint nut). Not easy, but a lot easier and better to do than literally taking every single component out. Tricks to making it work are to jack the suspension up and down, and push the steering left to right as needed to get the clearance you need. But it can definitely be done.
Pressing the old bushings out was a little tricky too. I finally was able to get it done with some rented tools from Pep Boys. I'll post pics from that in a minute.
Last edited by oldskewel; 03-30-17 at 09:55 PM.
03-30-17, 09:54 PM
#45
I just did this job on my 1991. Hardest part, by far, was figuring out how to press the old bushing out. I expected this, so I went and rented 4 different tool sets from Pep Boys and O'Reilly. I ended up using the C-clamp style bearing press from Pep Boys (about 3/8" wider than the one from O'Reilly, and yes, that helped) and a 9-pc set of axle-nut sockets, also from the boys, needing only the 32-mm one, which fit nicely inside the control arm to press out the bushing.
The first side took me a couple of hours of trial and error to figure things out. These pics are from the second side that took about half an hour, based on photo time stamps, at an easy pace, taking pics. My vise was pretty critical in getting this to work, so YMMV.
I know I said earlier that I did not follow the manual since it told me to take off too much stuff. But after figuring out this method, I checked and it is actually in the manual, kind of. No mention of Dremel tools, but they do say to chisel the sides up like I did here. The basic problem is that the Aluminum flange must be moved out of the way before using a press of any sort. I used my Dremel cut-off tool to cut through the Aluminum, making it easier to push up. I of course stopped short of the Steel control arm. Once I chiseled them up a little, I could go in again a little deeper and still stay clear of the control arm, so I did that.
After chiseling the flange inward, to expose the control arm. That is the point of the chiseling - the LCA itself needs to be exposed so it can be held while the bearing is pressed out.
Both sides done, so it can sit in the vise jaws and the bearing can be pressed out.
So here's the setup. The control arm is resting (the bushing is gently gripped by the vise) on the vise jaws (rubber covers removed now - they were in place earlier to protect the LCA). 32-mm axle-nut socket happens to be the perfect outer diameter for pressing out the bearing. 33-mm from this set is too big. OEM brand C-clamp rented from Pep Boys presses the top of that socket.
The bottom of the C-clamp just fits up against the bottom of the vise jaws.
Extended side view. The 38mm socket is just the right height for the LCA to sit on.
Shows progress of the bushing coming out. At some point, it hits the lower arm of the C-clamp and can't press any further ...
... so I reset and put in a breaker bar to give a little more travel. Also moved it toward the edge of the vise. There is no real force on the vise here. It's just holding thing in place and the jaws are acting as spacers.
Control arm after removal - practically perfect shape. No heating or torching or hammering it was done. The original bushing came out pretty much intact except for the chiseling stuff. And the first thing I did was to cut off those rubber protrusions.
The other side (without the flange)
I then lightly sanded off the grime, greased, and pressed in the new bushing. That was way easier than pressing out, but was still a little tricky. Somehow my photos from that are gone. But doing it, I clamped the C-clamp in the vise to hold it vertically. Then I used the end pieces from the C-clamp kit and just pushed it in. No rings or sockets or anything. Then I used the 32-mm socket to get the last few mm.
The first side took me a couple of hours of trial and error to figure things out. These pics are from the second side that took about half an hour, based on photo time stamps, at an easy pace, taking pics. My vise was pretty critical in getting this to work, so YMMV.
I know I said earlier that I did not follow the manual since it told me to take off too much stuff. But after figuring out this method, I checked and it is actually in the manual, kind of. No mention of Dremel tools, but they do say to chisel the sides up like I did here. The basic problem is that the Aluminum flange must be moved out of the way before using a press of any sort. I used my Dremel cut-off tool to cut through the Aluminum, making it easier to push up. I of course stopped short of the Steel control arm. Once I chiseled them up a little, I could go in again a little deeper and still stay clear of the control arm, so I did that.
After chiseling the flange inward, to expose the control arm. That is the point of the chiseling - the LCA itself needs to be exposed so it can be held while the bearing is pressed out.
Both sides done, so it can sit in the vise jaws and the bearing can be pressed out.
So here's the setup. The control arm is resting (the bushing is gently gripped by the vise) on the vise jaws (rubber covers removed now - they were in place earlier to protect the LCA). 32-mm axle-nut socket happens to be the perfect outer diameter for pressing out the bearing. 33-mm from this set is too big. OEM brand C-clamp rented from Pep Boys presses the top of that socket.
The bottom of the C-clamp just fits up against the bottom of the vise jaws.
Extended side view. The 38mm socket is just the right height for the LCA to sit on.
Shows progress of the bushing coming out. At some point, it hits the lower arm of the C-clamp and can't press any further ...
... so I reset and put in a breaker bar to give a little more travel. Also moved it toward the edge of the vise. There is no real force on the vise here. It's just holding thing in place and the jaws are acting as spacers.
Control arm after removal - practically perfect shape. No heating or torching or hammering it was done. The original bushing came out pretty much intact except for the chiseling stuff. And the first thing I did was to cut off those rubber protrusions.
The other side (without the flange)
I then lightly sanded off the grime, greased, and pressed in the new bushing. That was way easier than pressing out, but was still a little tricky. Somehow my photos from that are gone. But doing it, I clamped the C-clamp in the vise to hold it vertically. Then I used the end pieces from the C-clamp kit and just pushed it in. No rings or sockets or anything. Then I used the 32-mm socket to get the last few mm.
Last edited by oldskewel; 03-30-17 at 10:01 PM.