The honeymoon is over
#31
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Skimming all this, it seems you're getting better advice than the dealer gave you, and things are good now.
Your car has an oil level sensor + instrument panel warning light. If that's working, it should alert you when the oil level drops below the low mark on the dipstick. Completely separate from the oil pressure sensor. You might want to make sure that's working. It could be very helpful if you've got a bad oil leak.
If doing the AT pan gasket yourself, you might want to spend the money you're saving by doing that to also replace the AT filter (more of a screen, actually) inside the AT, and maybe the AT mount (12371-50010 for my '91) too while you're down there. Only if you need those things, of course.
Your car has an oil level sensor + instrument panel warning light. If that's working, it should alert you when the oil level drops below the low mark on the dipstick. Completely separate from the oil pressure sensor. You might want to make sure that's working. It could be very helpful if you've got a bad oil leak.
If doing the AT pan gasket yourself, you might want to spend the money you're saving by doing that to also replace the AT filter (more of a screen, actually) inside the AT, and maybe the AT mount (12371-50010 for my '91) too while you're down there. Only if you need those things, of course.
#33
Driver
Thread Starter
glad you have the courage to tackle the tranny pan gasket. Its rather simple, just a lot of 10mm bolts (19 of them). I used a 19V cordless drill and magnetic parts tray to hold them all. You may need to buy a scraper if you have the original FIPG on there, but what I would do is just buy a simple gasket and tranny filter kit from O'Reillys for 18 bucks and replace it with. Its too difficult to replicate the FIPG that was done at the factory, especially when under the car with ATF dripping on you. You can either choose the WIX version or the basic one, I opted for the PowerTorque one since the filter looked to be of better quality, usually its the other way around. I paid I think 22.99 for the kit with gasket and filter. Use 3 qts of Toyota T4 fluid, drain and fill it twice and then on the third time, replace the filter and gasket. That way, you'll get all the old fluid out without getting old deposits on the new filter.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/AT+Filter+Kit/03230/C0023.oap?keyword=transmission+filter&year=1997&make=Lexus&model=LS400&vi=1187524
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/AT+Filter+Kit/03230/C0023.oap?keyword=transmission+filter&year=1997&make=Lexus&model=LS400&vi=1187524
Also, how do I check that the oil level sensor is working? I think it is but I'm not sure. I did some research and supposedly it is common for the warning lights that I had to come on when the engine shuts off abruptly.
#34
Thanks for the tips and recommendations! Before seeing this, I already purchased an ATP transmission filter kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8R9JU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). When I was reading the tutorial to do this, one thing wasn't clear. How do I reconnect the dipstick tubes to each other?
Also, how do I check that the oil level sensor is working? I think it is but I'm not sure. I did some research and supposedly it is common for the warning lights that I had to come on when the engine shuts off abruptly.
Also, how do I check that the oil level sensor is working? I think it is but I'm not sure. I did some research and supposedly it is common for the warning lights that I had to come on when the engine shuts off abruptly.
Regarding the dipstick tube. It's a PITA when you try it for the first time. The upper half is secured to the head with a 12mm head bolt. Remove the dipstick and set it aside and then remove that bolt. I use a flex gear wrench for this. With the bolt removed just twist back and forth on the upper tube while pulling. Try to keep a straight pull as a bind will make your life difficult, pull straight up. The lower tube stays on the pan. This makes dropping the pan a little more difficult.
Also, because of the lower half welded into the pan, it's a tight fit for the front corners of the pan to clear the exhaust bracket that connects the rear of the cats to the transmission bell housing. You have to do a little fiddling to clear one side then the other side is easy. Don't do all Conan the Barbarian with it. Nice and easy. Be patient. After you drain the fluid, if you reinstall the plug to push your drain pan aside, fluid will continue to drain into the pan while you're removing the bolts and such. For this reason when you are working on clearing those front corners with the back of the pan dropped you're going to have a bit more fluid pour out of the pan. Have your drain pan under at least the rear of the pan at all times unless you want a huge mess.
Last edited by Banshee365; 02-23-17 at 07:10 PM.
#35
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
As far as checking whether the sensor that turns the light on is working, you probably need to actually have your level drop to make that happen. My light has come on a couple of times, flickering, when I let the level get too low. Both times it happened, I was impressed to notice that the dipstick was exactly at the low mark. So I guess next time you do an oil change, or let it drop below the low mark on the dipstick, the light should be on.
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