Apparently this temp is normal?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Apparently this temp is normal?
Hey everyone! I keep getting turned away from every shop telling me that this is normal, so I'm just not going to worry about it. Shop measured the temp a month ago with a scanner and the engine at full load was at 190 degrees, Today I had a different shop measure the temperature with a different temperature gun as well has a scan tool. The scan tool picked up 192 degrees and the gun measured 195 degrees. Thermostat and coolant has been changed recently but the gauge keeps creeping up. Is my gauge possibly not working? I'm going to have them change the timing belt and water pump while its in the shop aswell maybe that will result in a lower temp with a fresh water pump.
P.S Thermostat is OEM 180 degree.
P.S Thermostat is OEM 180 degree.
#2
Does it move at all? Like drop down any amount when coasting at higher speeds or go higher when idling with the AC on? I'd say that if it's planted firmly in that place once warmed up it's probably the gauge or the sensor feeding the gauge (I don't think it's the same sensor the ECU is using). That said, mine stays planted just under half no matter what the car is doing even on hot days.
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
try this before anything else; the next time you see the needle go beyond 50%, blast the heater. if the temp returns to normal (under 50%), then you have air bubbles in your coolant system.
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
#4
try this before anything else; the next time you see the needle go beyond 50%, blast the heater. if the temp returns to normal (under 50%), then you have air bubbles in your coolant system.
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Does it move at all? Like drop down any amount when coasting at higher speeds or go higher when idling with the AC on? I'd say that if it's planted firmly in that place once warmed up it's probably the gauge or the sensor feeding the gauge (I don't think it's the same sensor the ECU is using). That said, mine stays planted just under half no matter what the car is doing even on hot days.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
try this before anything else; the next time you see the needle go beyond 50%, blast the heater. if the temp returns to normal (under 50%), then you have air bubbles in your coolant system.
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
#7
It should be rock solid just a ted above the middle once warmed up. If the needle moves up & down, especially during stop & go traffic then you have air in your coolant system. You can purge it yourself by opening the coolant reservoir's cap once car's is warmed up but be extremely careful as it's under-pressure so place a thick towel over the cap & open it slowly. Do this a few times. Since you're going to have a shop changes the timing belt & water pump, once they re-filled & purged the system, this issue should go away, assuming they're doing it correctly. It's a simple procedure so you'll be fine.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Maybe your temp is normal but the gauge is not. I know mine reads at the mark below the halfway point and is the same whether winter or summer. I was told my car had a weak fan clutch, but still temperature gauge reading or temperature not a problem at all. I would try a new temperature sending unit if not too expensive.
#9
Lexus Champion
try this before anything else; the next time you see the needle go beyond 50%, blast the heater. if the temp returns to normal (under 50%), then you have air bubbles in your coolant system.
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
this is most likely due to the recent tstat and coolant change. lots of indy shops lack the full knowledge to bleed the LS400 engine. I say bring it back for a proper bleed!
#11
Racer
It's not normal. Should be just below half, ALL the time. This is coming from someone who lived in AZ and drove in 115+ temps.That happened to me when I had air trapped in the system or my system was under filled. These cars are a bit more difficult to bleed the air out since the rad cap isn't directly above the radiator and on a reservoir, so most people don't do it correctly.
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#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
It's not normal. Should be just below half, ALL the time. This is coming from someone who lived in AZ and drove in 115+ temps.That happened to me when I had air trapped in the system or my system was under filled. These cars are a bit more difficult to bleed the air out since the rad cap isn't directly above the radiator and on a reservoir, so most people don't do it correctly.
#13
Racer
I completely understand, I have had the system bled already, when the car goes in for the timing belt/water pump job I will tell them to do that as well as replace the ECT sensor. Also if there is air trapped in the system wont the gauge fluctuate? Which it does not under any circumstances. By the way my cluster does have sticky needles as well as the gas gauge is off to.
It could be your Thermostat too if that's old and tired. make sure to replace the cam/crank seals when you have the belt job done. I had to do mine 40k early due to a blown crank seal gushing out oil all over my tbelt.
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
good that you're getting the ECT sensor done. I did that very early on mainly because everyone said to and netted about 2mpg better hwy, so i'm doing about 27hwy now with some SC430 18s and wider tires so I can't complain.
It could be your Thermostat too if that's old and tired. make sure to replace the cam/crank seals when you have the belt job done. I had to do mine 40k early due to a blown crank seal gushing out oil all over my tbelt.
It could be your Thermostat too if that's old and tired. make sure to replace the cam/crank seals when you have the belt job done. I had to do mine 40k early due to a blown crank seal gushing out oil all over my tbelt.
#15
Lexus Champion
CLEAN RADIATOR ANd REPLACE SHROUD SEALS
A scan tool.that can read coolant temperature input might provide insight..
Another thing...
Many of us still.have original radiators...
After 20+ years there is going to be a fair amount of crud in the radiator fins that are reducing it's efficiency....removal, inspectionl and cleaning (or replacement DENSO.95+ are inexpensivet) are in order.
Also expired is the foam sealing strips with pressure sensitive adhesive that are used between radiator and shroud...which reduces efficiency.
Anyone source a durable replacement?
Another thing...
Many of us still.have original radiators...
After 20+ years there is going to be a fair amount of crud in the radiator fins that are reducing it's efficiency....removal, inspectionl and cleaning (or replacement DENSO.95+ are inexpensivet) are in order.
Also expired is the foam sealing strips with pressure sensitive adhesive that are used between radiator and shroud...which reduces efficiency.
Anyone source a durable replacement?