Aldiggy

Big AlDiggy here I have 1995 Lexus Ls400 currently working on water pump and timing belt. I think my timing belt is set correctly took pics before and after any opinions welcomed restoring this car for my daily driver

dicer

Anything that belt turns that has frictionless bearings needs either new bearings or replaced. How many miles on it? Maybe some seals are due also.

Aldiggy

she has 164 000+ changed t-belt and idler and tensioner and water pump going to repack fan bearing with slick'em as well so far later today will do cam seals

Legender

Looks like you're on the right track. Welcome to the club.

Aldiggy

After last nights work process ,I made an engine test for timing reassembled enough of the neccessary components and water circuit to run engine with top covers off that is ignition covers over valve covers. first start was like normal almost cold speed was just under 950 warmed up then 300 rpm steady no shake faint tick on driver side and i mean faint. shut down checked for leak sign there was some but it stopped, restarted ran for another hour letting battery get full. shut down. I was happy seemed like a successful repair. stopped work to pick up in the morning. Next morning this morning completed assembly for test driving only problem I had was tightening main crank bolt found a way to lock it down and tighten it but to remove my tools I inadvertently turned the engine back wards about a half inch. After that I started her up again started and ran the same steady no shake same warm up cycle but started ticking loud on passenger side of engine drove around the block one pass more power than it had before job was done but the ticking continued definitely passenger side 1st or 2nd cylinder loud enough to be worry me even rested my ear on the top distributor cover both sides sort of like stethascope could really hear impact of valves in a pronounced way thumping or hitting made me think of cylinder/valve striking . Now I'm pissed 20 hours work and now this dilemma arises. just shut it off for the night. In the morning I will go and do a partial take down so I can see my timing marks and check to see if I am still on point timing wise if not ok may have damaged the valves but if it is still properly synchronized what brought this ticking about concerned about damage it might cause. going to do a video clip in the morning to post up here.. My main worry is that half inch back turn of the crankshaft. anybody have an opinion on what other things might cause the clicking this all is happening because of my breakdown on the highway water pump siezed belt all frayed on forward edge temps went to redline almost shut down just before reaching it no choice had to get off the highway to the right lane shoulder safely in evening speeding traffic . more tomorrow thanks guys for those of you who replied to my original post looking for feedback thanks again

dicer

If the t belt is on and all tight like normal running condition, a counter to normal rotation will not hurt a thing.

Aldiggy

Thanks Dicer the noise was from plastic spark plug wire guide not set properly in yoke cam tab was striking the plastic it took a while to figure out the true source of the knock noise it truly sounded like cam lifter with no oil anyway fixed it car is running well also changed idle up valve on power steering system it was leaking p/s fluid into intake path. New radiator and reman high output alternator 200 amp. New tires left outer tie rod and ball joint in front and a wheel alignment she drives solid and agile. next on my list will be rear tires and interior restoration and improvements/ mods last is exterior body stuff front air dam lower and rear bumper both have paint issues rear mostly deep parking scratches front air dam has circular areas of paint popped off exposing the beige foam substructure my car is a dark blue over a slate grey need both colors . I wonder how difficult it will be to source proper match colors Thanks again