Rear tie rod assembly
06-17-03, 04:14 PM
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Rear tie rod assembly
This was pointed out in this thread towards the end.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=86465
These are due for replacement on my car (rattling etc) so I ordered two reeplacement rods. I got to the dealer to discover you can buy the bushings separately for about $65 less than the whole rod. I figured oh well I already went down here topay for these so might as well get the whole thing.
The part number for the bushing itself is 48725-22110 - beware on doing this yourself..its probably the same story as getting control arm bushings replaced..difficult.
The part number for the rod is 48780-50010.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=86465
These are due for replacement on my car (rattling etc) so I ordered two reeplacement rods. I got to the dealer to discover you can buy the bushings separately for about $65 less than the whole rod. I figured oh well I already went down here topay for these so might as well get the whole thing.
The part number for the bushing itself is 48725-22110 - beware on doing this yourself..its probably the same story as getting control arm bushings replaced..difficult.
The part number for the rod is 48780-50010.
Last edited by Lvangundy; 06-17-03 at 04:14 PM.
06-18-03, 09:26 AM
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Re: Rear tie rod assembly
Originally posted by Lvangundy
This was pointed out in this thread towards the end.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=86465
These are due for replacement on my car (rattling etc) so I ordered two reeplacement rods. I got to the dealer to discover you can buy the bushings separately for about $65 less than the whole rod. I figured oh well I already went down here topay for these so might as well get the whole thing.
The part number for the bushing itself is 48725-22110 - beware on doing this yourself..its probably the same story as getting control arm bushings replaced..difficult.
The part number for the rod is 48780-50010.
This was pointed out in this thread towards the end.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=86465
These are due for replacement on my car (rattling etc) so I ordered two reeplacement rods. I got to the dealer to discover you can buy the bushings separately for about $65 less than the whole rod. I figured oh well I already went down here topay for these so might as well get the whole thing.
The part number for the bushing itself is 48725-22110 - beware on doing this yourself..its probably the same story as getting control arm bushings replaced..difficult.
The part number for the rod is 48780-50010.
By the look of the picture below would you say this is strut rod bushings? Or maybe i'm an idiot and these are both the same thing.
06-18-03, 02:17 PM
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Re: Rear tie rod assembly
Originally posted by Lvangundy
This was pointed out in this thread towards the end.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=86465
These are due for replacement on my car (rattling etc) so I ordered two reeplacement rods. I got to the dealer to discover you can buy the bushings separately for about $65 less than the whole rod. I figured oh well I already went down here topay for these so might as well get the whole thing.
The part number for the bushing itself is 48725-22110 - beware on doing this yourself..its probably the same story as getting control arm bushings replaced..difficult.
The part number for the rod is 48780-50010.
This was pointed out in this thread towards the end.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=86465
These are due for replacement on my car (rattling etc) so I ordered two reeplacement rods. I got to the dealer to discover you can buy the bushings separately for about $65 less than the whole rod. I figured oh well I already went down here topay for these so might as well get the whole thing.
The part number for the bushing itself is 48725-22110 - beware on doing this yourself..its probably the same story as getting control arm bushings replaced..difficult.
The part number for the rod is 48780-50010.
Last edited by dbullen; 06-18-03 at 02:23 PM.
06-18-03, 03:22 PM
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Just got off the phone with the lexus dealership again. And this is what we determined. The bushings that are gone are on the end of the Strut rod that connects to the knuckle (carrier) and they don't sell these bushings. Apparently I need to purchase a new Knucke for both sides in the rear at a cost of about $230 CND per side + labour. Does this sound about correct?
06-19-03, 06:24 AM
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that sounds right dbullen
The bushing, P/N 48725-22110 is for the round end of the P/N 48780-50010 Rod. - it comes with the rod
The bushing that wears out on the Carrier is not a Lexus serviceable part, but is available aftermarket.
send me an email traturn@yahoo.com for some details.
The bushing, P/N 48725-22110 is for the round end of the P/N 48780-50010 Rod. - it comes with the rod
The bushing that wears out on the Carrier is not a Lexus serviceable part, but is available aftermarket.
send me an email traturn@yahoo.com for some details.
06-19-03, 07:11 AM
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Ok sounds like I mixed up the part numbers. I'll double check when I get home. It's been 2 days since I've had these and it seems like they are much mroe stiff the first day or so, maybe I'm jsut getting used to them? It's rubber inside and seems to flex quite a bit so I imagine they could stretch/tear if pushed real hard.
I paid about $85 each for these - which is about $115 canadian.
I did have the local dealer check the part number on the actual bushing inside the rod. In the picture this bushing is on the left side. They were about $20 each.
And yes I think the correct term is 'strut rod' not tie rod..LOL.
I paid about $85 each for these - which is about $115 canadian.
I did have the local dealer check the part number on the actual bushing inside the rod. In the picture this bushing is on the left side. They were about $20 each.
And yes I think the correct term is 'strut rod' not tie rod..LOL.
Last edited by Lvangundy; 06-19-03 at 07:16 AM.
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07-02-03, 06:35 AM
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Well I ordered both bushings for each end of the strut rod. Went to have the bushings put it (The night before I was leaving for a road trip to Texas) When the mechanic tried to loosen the strut rod to put the bushing in the rod snapped. So I got it welded as a temporary fix while I'm waiting for the new rod to arrive this friday. This also means I have an extra set of bushings for the rear strut rod, if anyone needs them and wants a good deal let me know. Tha part # is 48725-22110
07-06-03, 03:40 PM
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Rear Strut Bushing Replacement (Ozzi)
I had also posted: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=71393 the problems I was having with my rear suspension. It was the carrier hub strut rod bushings as has happened to others. As Lexus doesn’t apparently supply only the bushing for the carrier hub, the alternative was to replace them, a task that I was quoted at $900/side. Both sides were bad in my car. The looseness was so bad that I could feel the suspension geometry changing under acceleration to braking. Also, the moving suspension was so bad that it ground off the tread of the Dunlop Sport A2 after only 9500 miles.
Anyways, I figured out that Ozzi (ozzis@bellsouth.net) has a repair kit that he shipped 2-day UPS to PA for $55. I took out the bolt on the carrier hub and held the strut out of the way with an elastic bungie cord. At this point the center of both bushings came right out as they weren’t attached to anything anymore with a lot of movement as the result. When I talked with him about getting the old bushing out, Ozzi was a little worried that it might be difficult without an air compressor. I was able to do it with the tools shown in the picture below from AutoZone (free rental upon return). I was able to get the puller to catch the carrier hub enough to crank it down with the bushing tool inserted into what was left of the bushing. I was able to use that to push the bushing out the back. The new bushings from Ozzi pushed right in easily with a little lubricant applied. I popped the rod back up, put the bolt back on and realized the most amazing suspension improvement possible for $55. Everything feels much more taut and controlled.
With 173K on the odometer I’m starting to think real hard about sinking a lot of money into any repair like my $5000 tranny rebuild at 80K miles but this made such an improvement that I’m all jazzed about my LS again.
Thanks ClubLexus!
Anyways, I figured out that Ozzi (ozzis@bellsouth.net) has a repair kit that he shipped 2-day UPS to PA for $55. I took out the bolt on the carrier hub and held the strut out of the way with an elastic bungie cord. At this point the center of both bushings came right out as they weren’t attached to anything anymore with a lot of movement as the result. When I talked with him about getting the old bushing out, Ozzi was a little worried that it might be difficult without an air compressor. I was able to do it with the tools shown in the picture below from AutoZone (free rental upon return). I was able to get the puller to catch the carrier hub enough to crank it down with the bushing tool inserted into what was left of the bushing. I was able to use that to push the bushing out the back. The new bushings from Ozzi pushed right in easily with a little lubricant applied. I popped the rod back up, put the bolt back on and realized the most amazing suspension improvement possible for $55. Everything feels much more taut and controlled.
With 173K on the odometer I’m starting to think real hard about sinking a lot of money into any repair like my $5000 tranny rebuild at 80K miles but this made such an improvement that I’m all jazzed about my LS again.
Thanks ClubLexus!
07-06-03, 04:50 PM
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Re: Rear Strut Bushing Replacement (Ozzi)
Originally posted by pyearick
I had also posted: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=71393 the problems I was having with my rear suspension. It was the carrier hub strut rod bushings as has happened to others. As Lexus doesn’t apparently supply only the bushing for the carrier hub, the alternative was to replace them, a task that I was quoted at $900/side. Both sides were bad in my car. The looseness was so bad that I could feel the suspension geometry changing under acceleration to braking. Also, the moving suspension was so bad that it ground off the tread of the Dunlop Sport A2 after only 9500 miles.
Anyways, I figured out that Ozzi (ozzis@bellsouth.net) has a repair kit that he shipped 2-day UPS to PA for $55. I took out the bolt on the carrier hub and held the strut out of the way with an elastic bungie cord. At this point the center of both bushings came right out as they weren’t attached to anything anymore with a lot of movement as the result. When I talked with him about getting the old bushing out, Ozzi was a little worried that it might be difficult without an air compressor. I was able to do it with the tools shown in the picture below from AutoZone (free rental upon return). I was able to get the puller to catch the carrier hub enough to crank it down with the bushing tool inserted into what was left of the bushing. I was able to use that to push the bushing out the back. The new bushings from Ozzi pushed right in easily with a little lubricant applied. I popped the rod back up, put the bolt back on and realized the most amazing suspension improvement possible for $55. Everything feels much more taut and controlled.
With 173K on the odometer I’m starting to think real hard about sinking a lot of money into any repair like my $5000 tranny rebuild at 80K miles but this made such an improvement that I’m all jazzed about my LS again.
Thanks ClubLexus!
I had also posted: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=71393 the problems I was having with my rear suspension. It was the carrier hub strut rod bushings as has happened to others. As Lexus doesn’t apparently supply only the bushing for the carrier hub, the alternative was to replace them, a task that I was quoted at $900/side. Both sides were bad in my car. The looseness was so bad that I could feel the suspension geometry changing under acceleration to braking. Also, the moving suspension was so bad that it ground off the tread of the Dunlop Sport A2 after only 9500 miles.
Anyways, I figured out that Ozzi (ozzis@bellsouth.net) has a repair kit that he shipped 2-day UPS to PA for $55. I took out the bolt on the carrier hub and held the strut out of the way with an elastic bungie cord. At this point the center of both bushings came right out as they weren’t attached to anything anymore with a lot of movement as the result. When I talked with him about getting the old bushing out, Ozzi was a little worried that it might be difficult without an air compressor. I was able to do it with the tools shown in the picture below from AutoZone (free rental upon return). I was able to get the puller to catch the carrier hub enough to crank it down with the bushing tool inserted into what was left of the bushing. I was able to use that to push the bushing out the back. The new bushings from Ozzi pushed right in easily with a little lubricant applied. I popped the rod back up, put the bolt back on and realized the most amazing suspension improvement possible for $55. Everything feels much more taut and controlled.
With 173K on the odometer I’m starting to think real hard about sinking a lot of money into any repair like my $5000 tranny rebuild at 80K miles but this made such an improvement that I’m all jazzed about my LS again.
Thanks ClubLexus!
07-07-03, 06:30 PM
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Well I got the strut rods and carrier bushings replaced today. Finally no more clunking from the rear suspension. The bushings were completly worn off. Anyways I noticed a few weeks ago (I forgot to get the dealership to check it out today) That the drivers side of the car is about 1/2 -3/4 of an inch lower then the passengers side (and yes it's on level ground) There is about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch more clearance between the wheels and the wheel well on the passengers side then there is on the drivers side. Anyone have any ideas what this may be ? The only thing I can think of would be springs, but why is this happening only on one side ?
07-07-03, 06:53 PM
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Sagging
I'm sure that my LS rides a little lower than when it was new. It also seems to ride relativly harshly but I keep my tires pumped up too. I have a feeling that the springs have sagged unless someone tells me that the struts are gas charged and maybe they have leaked down. OTOH, I just figure I got a free lowering kit!
07-07-03, 07:49 PM
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Originally posted by dbullen
Well I got the strut rods and carrier bushings replaced today. Finally no more clunking from the rear suspension. The bushings were completly worn off. Anyways I noticed a few weeks ago (I forgot to get the dealership to check it out today) That the drivers side of the car is about 1/2 -3/4 of an inch lower then the passengers side (and yes it's on level ground) There is about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch more clearance between the wheels and the wheel well on the passengers side then there is on the drivers side. Anyone have any ideas what this may be ? The only thing I can think of would be springs, but why is this happening only on one side ?
Well I got the strut rods and carrier bushings replaced today. Finally no more clunking from the rear suspension. The bushings were completly worn off. Anyways I noticed a few weeks ago (I forgot to get the dealership to check it out today) That the drivers side of the car is about 1/2 -3/4 of an inch lower then the passengers side (and yes it's on level ground) There is about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch more clearance between the wheels and the wheel well on the passengers side then there is on the drivers side. Anyone have any ideas what this may be ? The only thing I can think of would be springs, but why is this happening only on one side ?
07-08-03, 04:54 AM
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lower on driver's side
It seems logical to me that the springs on the driver's side would sag more over time, especially with higher mileage vehicles. Most trips are driver only, unless the vehicle is used for carpool or only for family trips. I try to offset this on mine by always loading packages in the trunk on the passenger side first. Mine is lower on the driver's side even after new OEM shocks all around and new bushings. I did not replace the springs, I would strongly suspect that is the worn component that is causing the vehicle to sit lower on the driver's side.