95lsUCF20

I have an exhaust leak, I can very clearly see that the small pipe is completely broken in half ( the pipe that starts from the passenger side manifold and goes over the transmission bellhousing area) im wondering how to solve this? I love to repair instead of replace if there was room I’d use some type of exhaust tape to repair it ..but it’s a very tight spot back there... how do ppl usually solve this issue? I know I can replace it but my exhaust system is original and very far rotted out the bolt heads aren’t even visible so it will be a mission to replace this thing...

my main question is what what do you remove to gain access to this pipe? And should I repair or replace ? I’m sure there’s a thread on this already I couldn’t find it sorry if so, maybe someone can just forward me to a link of something about this issue

thanks for all the help in advance!

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

this will do it:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...rchid=18060096

95lsUCF20

That link isn’t working for me?

jaaa

When I did mine, I first took out the two bottom bolts of the EGR pipe where it connects to the exhaust. One of the blots is hard to get to and you need a small 10MM(?) open end wrench to get to it. I left the exhaust in place. You next have to remove the upper and lower intakes to get to the bolts on the backside of the egr pipe. It is not a fun job. I'd give it a full day. I've taken my intakes off a lot last year and could do it in a couple hours, but if it's your first time....... If you have never changed out your starter and have 220k or more, by the time you have the intakes off, you have about half the labor of getting to your starter.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

sorry 95LS, I tried it and it didnt work for me either.. must be a bug..
mine was a 97 model and it took about 3 hours, just tight places..

dashan

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-egr-pipe.html

Losiracer2

I was able to have a guy weld mine between the accordion portions of the pipe. I think its much stronger now. Only cost me $20 to fix and some new gaskets for either end.

The job of replacing it though was very time consuming. I ended up having to remove the Y-pipe, then the pass. side catalytic converter had to come out, but in order to do that, I had to drill through the factory stud and ended up inserting a bolt and nut. And my car is an AZ car with zero rust. I tried propane, then mapp gas and still couldn't get the nut to come off the stud on the upper portion of the Cat.

I had to drill through that top stud with my 18V drill....took me about 3 days since it was high up in the pass side of the engine compartment and it was December and cold.









to give you an idea of how big it is, $20 bill for comparison

jaaa

@losiracer2
I don't know. I just got through replacing my transmission, so had to remove the cats and the y-pipe. I hated doing that and it seemed to take forever drilling and tapping the exhaust threads. I think I'd much rather pull the intakes than work on the exhaust system. When you had the egr pipe welded, did you worry that it might recrack because it was too rigid? I wondered if the accordion part of the egr pipe was for flexing? Not criticizing, just wondering.

UNCNOR

iTrader: (1)

Buy a new one from amayama.com for approx.$70.00 and shipping of approx.$17.00.

95lsUCF20

Thanks a lot everyone for all the advice and the links! I didn’t even know where to start before lol... I’m going to pull off my intake completely and attempt to repair this with some exhaust tape like thing I’ve seen out there(should be the best result because it’s flexible like the accordion (probably even more so) and will make my life easiest)...I just wonder f I could fit my hand and the toe and be able to do a good job where it sits (idk what it’s like with the intake off I’ll see soon enough lol, I’m trying to avoid dealing with rusty exhaust components (exhaust is rotten) if I’m not confident in my tape job then I’ll just replace the entire pipe lol...it’s not my daily driver and it’s in my garage so it’s not the end of the world if I tinker with it
I’ll post about how things turn out
thanks again everyone!

Losiracer2

When doing this repair I really didn't think about the flexing part. A lot of people say this pipe fails when the mounts go bad which causes the exhaust and engine to twist a little, combined with the amount of heat cycles its gone though and you're left with this crack.

The previous owner had just replaced the tranny mount so I felt comfortable welding it since I knew the engine wasn't going to move that much after that. I knew my OEM engine mounts were original but the car wasn't to the point of vibrating at idle and $20 was a lot cheaper than 150 at the dealer so I tried this out.

So far it's been 2 yrs and no exhaust leak since.