Superfast1

My 97 Lexus LS400 tranny is acting up again after I've replaced a torque converter & a new genuine Toyota Shift Solenoid E (p/n: 35280-50010) last year (10K miles). This time, I pulled the code & it came up w/ the same one P0770, which called out a faulty Shift Solenoid E. I called the Lexus dealer's part dept & they told me their book do not list the solenoid in letter so I gave them the above p/n & they told me that's the Lockup Solenoid & the correct Shift Solenoid p/n is 35270-50010. Now I'm wondering if I have replaced the wrong part last year. Can someone shed some light on this? Thanks in advance.

Scraape

not sure if this will help you at all. Worth a try. These are the part #'s for the a650e transmission, but maybe some solenoids are the same.
A650E transmission (1998-2000 Ls400)



REPAIR MANUAL SOLENOID NAME PART CATALOG DESCRIPTION

35240-30020 S1 Solenoid Assembly, Automatic Transmission 3--Way No. 1

35250-50030 S2 Solenoid Assembly, Transmission No. 3 (No. 1)

35230-30010 S3 Solenoid Assembly, Automatic Transmission 3--Way No. 2

35240-50020 S4 Solenoid Assembly, Transmission No. 3 (No. 2)

35270-30030 SLN Solenoid Assembly, Shift Control

35290-30040 SLT Solenoid Assembly, Line Pressure Control

35280-30040 SLU Solenoid Assembly, Lock--up Control

Scraape

Lexus dealer is correct. For a 97, SLN Shift Solenoid is 35270-50010. SL Lock-Up Solenoid is 35280-50010

Superfast1

So which one is Shift Solenoid E? Thanks, Scrappe.

Scraape

sln i guess

Losiracer2

I was having the same p0770 code and my problem was the car would shudder when coming to a stop, so that would mean the torque converter was dragging and not unlocking.

I put in a JY lockup solenoid, did 3 drain and refills with Toyota T4 and replaced the strainer and my then 275k transmission, it shifts great now w/ 286k. I was considering replacing the solenoid, but at $300 a pop, I decided I'd try a JY one first and luckily it worked. So it only ended up costing 20+fluids and the strainer from Oriellys for another 17.

I knew mine was bad when removed because I could shake it and hear a metallic clacking, meaning something broke internally.

Superfast1

Mine is slipping when I accelerated from a dead stop. The rpm goes up but car is slow in getting up to speed but then it shifts fine at freeway speed. I think my clutch pack has worn out so I'm leaning toward rebuilding the tranny as I'm planning on keeping the car. I've found a transmission place that will rebuild mine for $1100 & at 238K miles, it wouldn't hurt.

Btw, what's a JY solenoid? A used one from the junk yard? Do you remember the p/n as I'm wondering if I may have replaced the wrong one last year. The one that I replaced was the gray one in circle as shown in the attached photo. If it's the wrong one, how come it works all last year?

I still have the OEM I took out from last year. You've made me curious so I took it out of the bag & shook it & it's rock solid. I've also applied 12V to it & it clicks so it's telling me I may have replaced the wrong one or it works due to changing the strainer & refilling w/ fresh fluid.

I've just spoke to the transmission shop's owner about what's included in the transmission rebuild & he said it'll include a re-man torque converter, a Raybesto brand transmission rebuild kit to replace all the soft parts. He will also check all 4 solenoids, valve body & all of the hard parts. I think I'll go for a rebuild.

Losiracer2

That gray one is the one I replaced for the SL lockup. Initially, I think I got the wrong solenoid, the one right next to it, which after researching, wasn't the lockup solenoid. It might be that shift solenoid E you're posting about. I think I've got that other solenoid if you need it still in my toolbox somewhere. I know I replaced the darker grey one and had the lighter grey one has the spare.

My symptoms were only when coming to a stop, any other time, it shifted nice and crisp. And yes, JY means Junk Yard or salvage yard...as some people get offended since its not really junk in there haha.

If you can find a low mileage wrecked LS400, would you not want to consider getting the transmission out of that car? they can be had for as little as $100-$200 and would be all OEM, I get weary when people rebuild these Aisin built transmissions with aftermarket components, I don't know of the quality of the parts they used, which strays me away from going that route if it were my car.

I've had success sourcing low mileage JDM transmissions for my Honda for a good price so I always prefer that route since I know all the components inside are high quality Japanese parts.

Superfast1

I was thinking about going w/ the low mileage jdm from Japan & found one for $750 + another $110 for shipping but it's up north (Berkley, Ca) so about 500 miles from me (Southern Cal). I've heard some really bad stories from some owners buying & installing these supposedly low mileage ones but they have no way of knowing if they're really low mileage & from Japan & worst yet, they didn't work or shifted funny due to the wrong tranny or incompatibility.

I feel comfortable getting mine rebuilt at this local transmission shop as some of my friends have had their transmissions rebuilt at this shop before. Thanks for your input.

Superfast1

I had the local shop rebuilt my tranny & it was done in 2 days. The shop owner told me all the soft parts were rock hard, brittle & fell apart when he removed them. With the tranny removed, I also had him replaced the rear main seal for me as a peace of mind. I have been driving the car for 2 weeks now & it's shifting like new again. Thought I let you guys know.

Losiracer2

what was the cost for the rebuild if you don't mind divulging that info?

Superfast1

I know the owner so he only charged me $1100.

Banshee365

Nah. All overhaul kits are pretty good anymore. Used to be there were some really garbage ones out there but the few that make the kits are very very good. They need to be as Toyota doesn't offer overhaul kits for the A340 anymore. The important stuff that has to be perfect are the soft parts. Good news there is that most kitters use OEM soft parts in their kits. The kits I use have OEM soft parts and Raybestos frictions and steels. They are fine quality. I wouldn't bother with a salvaged unit. Been there, done that, learned the lesson. If you're pulling the trans to replace it, overhaul your unit and install a new/rebuilt converter.


I'm sorry that I was late responding to your PM Superfast1. Regardless, it wasn't going to make a difference. I was going to recommend an overhaul after I asked you those questions that are sitting in your inbox. The only thing I wouldn't have recommended is changing the rear main seal. If it's not leaking, I don't touch them. I've done-so before and ended up with a leak afterwards when it wasn't leaking before. This is because, especially on high mileage engines, a very small groove wears into the sealing surface from the seal. When you install a new seal it's impossible to set the lip exactly back in that groove. In my experience the only really way to repair a leaking crank seal is to sleeve along with a new seal. I have had success on the 1UZ in replacing a leaking front crank seal with a new OEM seal and it being dry for the past 10k miles now, so maybe you won't have an issue. It depends on how hard the cranks are. Small block Ford's will all have a groove and have to be sleeved.

What is happening with these A340 tranny's as they age is the soft parts your shop spoke of (o-rings) harden and allow pressure leakage. The frictions have also aged and start to become a little brittle but still work just fine. But, when you start mixing in low pressure is where the problems begin. There can't be any leaks in the pressurized portions. When you start having low pressure the pistons do not function properly causing the steels and frictions to slip. This creates heat. Heat is the #1 enemy to an auto trans. This is where things start to go downhill quick. The frictions get super hot, super brittle and start to shed material. This material ends up clogging your strainer which starts to starve your pump and compounds your pressure problem. In my experience this usually happens in the 1st brake, 2nd brake, and direct drum. Usually just one of those. Mainly the 2nd brake and direct drum. The return springs on the pistons are very strong and take a lot of pressure to overpower. When the piston can barely overpower the return springs the clutches slip. When the pressure can't overcome the return spring you get a failure to engage. In the A340's I've done there is one (maybe two) totally smoked clutch packs and the rest look nearly unworn. You can still read the printing on the frictions on the rest. I think the most overlooked part of a trans overhaul is the valve body. Most shops will just split the halves, stick them in a parts washer and reassemble. The divider plate has the gaskets bonded to it and it is very time consuming to remove the gasket from the plate so you can lay the new gaskets on it before reassembly. Hopefully your shop did a good job. I'm sure you'll be fine regardless.

Superfast1

Hi Banshee- I know you've lots of experience w/ these trannies that's why I've PM'ed you. Anyway, I'm glad that I went w/ the rebuilt route instead of buying a used one not knowing the condition of it then ended up having the same problem again. As stated, the shop owner used the Raybesto's master rebuilt kit & he's reassured me that it's a great rebuilt kit as he has used lots of them w/ success. In regards to the rear main seal, I would have left the old one alone if you had advise me on time but I feel good having it replaced w/ a new one. This shop is very meticulous about the repair, they even buffed the outside of my housing so it looks like new & the tranny is bone dried so I'm very happy w/ it. Since the OEM tranny was so old (20 years & 240K miles), the ECU detected & mistakenly faulted the wrong part (Shift Solenoid E - Error code P0172) which I've replaced last year w/ a genuine Toyota solenoid. Since it's only a year old, I've figured it can't be it so I've left it alone & just went w/ the rebuilt. Car has been driven great for a few weeks now w/ no error code. It still jerk a little at cold like before when I put it in reverse or drive to back out of the driveway but other than that, it shifts like butter. Thanks for getting back to me. Have a great day.