94 Toyota Celsior Radiator Fan Constantly On - Where is the Fan Relay?
12-07-17, 10:57 AM
#1
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94 Toyota Celsior Radiator Fan Constantly On - Where is the Fan Relay?
My Celsior's fan started running constantly (From cold start) the other day and wont shut off.
Anyone have any idea what the issue is, and where in the hell are the fan relays as a friend suggested I try testing them to make sure they are not the culprit.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
Anyone have any idea what the issue is, and where in the hell are the fan relays as a friend suggested I try testing them to make sure they are not the culprit.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
12-07-17, 12:45 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
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12-07-17, 01:52 PM
#4
12-07-17, 04:29 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
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UPDATE: The fan seems to be changing speed from time to time as well as momentarily shutting off (For no more than a 5 to 10 seconds) completely randomly.
12-07-17, 05:08 PM
#6
Moderator
A Celsior's hydraulic engine fan never stops. As long as the engine is running, it turns and changes the speed depending on the temperature sensed at the radiator and driven by the ECU. A Celsiors is designed and made to meet the heavy traffic jam and the severe climate in Japan. I have experienced that our summer here was hotter than Singapore and the winter as cold as the winter in Alaska.
12-07-17, 06:01 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
A Celsior's hydraulic engine fan never stops. As long as the engine is running, it turns and changes the speed depending on the temperature sensed at the radiator and driven by the ECU. A Celsiors is designed and made to meet the heavy traffic jam and the severe climate in Japan. I have experienced that our summer here was hotter than Singapore and the winter as cold as the winter in Alaska.
Then what would cause the fan to run at full speed from a cold start?
Its winter here in Canada and it's minus 4 out today and the fan came on first thing when I started my car as if my AC was on, but it isn't.
Could it be a faulty sensor of some sort?
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12-07-17, 06:48 PM
#8
Moderator
It could be a faulty sensor or the ECU's malfunction. Regarding the sensor, I don't know the specification for a Gen1 but a Gen2's resistance should be 1530Ω ± 50Ω@80℃. (In case you can't read the bold part well, I use 8 bit characters. 1530 ohms +- 50 ohms @ 80 degrees C.)
Regarding the ECU, does yours still have original electrolytic capacitors? If so, it's time to replace those. You'd be amazed at the improvement of the engine power after changing those.
Regarding the ECU, does yours still have original electrolytic capacitors? If so, it's time to replace those. You'd be amazed at the improvement of the engine power after changing those.
12-07-17, 08:07 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
It could be a faulty sensor or the ECU's malfunction. Regarding the sensor, I don't know the specification for a Gen1 but a Gen2's resistance should be 1530Ω ± 50Ω@80℃. (In case you can't read the bold part well, I use 8 bit characters. 1530 ohms +- 50 ohms @ 80 degrees C.)
Regarding the ECU, does yours still have original electrolytic capacitors? If so, it's time to replace those. You'd be amazed at the improvement of the engine power after changing those.
Regarding the ECU, does yours still have original electrolytic capacitors? If so, it's time to replace those. You'd be amazed at the improvement of the engine power after changing those.
I used to have a Blitz modified ECU, however the car was drinking to much gas so I swapped it out for the stock computer and sold the Blitz.
I wonder...for the past 6 months or so, my speedometer has been off by almost exactly 10kph lower than my actual speed...could this be ECU as well?
Lastly, where do I find the sensor to test? I dont have the manual for the car!
12-07-17, 10:18 PM
#10
Moderator
The Gen 2 manual shows the location of the sensor at the lower part of the radiator and a bit off to the left when you see it behind it. I think the Gen 1 has it too there.
Regarding the accuracy of the speedometer, it's hard to tell without analysing it myself. There are many factors, you know. If I were you, at first I'd use a pulse generator and apply 70 pulses/sec (70Hz square pulses of 0-5V) to the cluster unit confirming that it indicated 100km/H. JDM cars need 7 pulses to indicate 10km/H. 14 pulses 20km/H, 21 pulses 30km/H. This confirmation is the important first step. Some accuracy problems were caused by the mechanical issues, I have experienced and I had no idea to fix those. The shop owner simply replaced the meter block.
Regarding the accuracy of the speedometer, it's hard to tell without analysing it myself. There are many factors, you know. If I were you, at first I'd use a pulse generator and apply 70 pulses/sec (70Hz square pulses of 0-5V) to the cluster unit confirming that it indicated 100km/H. JDM cars need 7 pulses to indicate 10km/H. 14 pulses 20km/H, 21 pulses 30km/H. This confirmation is the important first step. Some accuracy problems were caused by the mechanical issues, I have experienced and I had no idea to fix those. The shop owner simply replaced the meter block.
12-08-17, 10:05 AM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The Gen 2 manual shows the location of the sensor at the lower part of the radiator and a bit off to the left when you see it behind it. I think the Gen 1 has it too there.
Regarding the accuracy of the speedometer, it's hard to tell without analysing it myself. There are many factors, you know. If I were you, at first I'd use a pulse generator and apply 70 pulses/sec (70Hz square pulses of 0-5V) to the cluster unit confirming that it indicated 100km/H. JDM cars need 7 pulses to indicate 10km/H. 14 pulses 20km/H, 21 pulses 30km/H. This confirmation is the important first step. Some accuracy problems were caused by the mechanical issues, I have experienced and I had no idea to fix those. The shop owner simply replaced the meter block.
Regarding the accuracy of the speedometer, it's hard to tell without analysing it myself. There are many factors, you know. If I were you, at first I'd use a pulse generator and apply 70 pulses/sec (70Hz square pulses of 0-5V) to the cluster unit confirming that it indicated 100km/H. JDM cars need 7 pulses to indicate 10km/H. 14 pulses 20km/H, 21 pulses 30km/H. This confirmation is the important first step. Some accuracy problems were caused by the mechanical issues, I have experienced and I had no idea to fix those. The shop owner simply replaced the meter block.
12-08-17, 05:13 PM
#12
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I like a man who act before ask a question that is not quite needed.
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