New low-mile First Generation LS400 to sort out
12-22-17, 08:21 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
New low-mile First Generation LS400 to sort out
This is my 2nd First generation LS400. My 1992 was stolen and I was heartbroken.
To replace my car nicknamed Sexy Lexy, I just bought Sexy Lexy II
I am now the proud owner of a 1990 LS400 with only 80,000 miles.
It's chassis, body, engine and interior are in great shape.
But it has a few issues that brought the seller to sell her.
Power Steering: It isn't speed adaptive. There's no leaks visible but it won't stiffen at higher speeds.
Toyota Dealership said both rear axles are leaking and that I must change the right and left driveshafts.
Toyota Dealership also said that I must replace the lower ball joints, and that OEM is required.
Thanks for any advice you can provide. I'm in Las Vegas right now if you know of any good shops.
Cheers,
SexyLexyII
To replace my car nicknamed Sexy Lexy, I just bought Sexy Lexy II
I am now the proud owner of a 1990 LS400 with only 80,000 miles.
It's chassis, body, engine and interior are in great shape.
But it has a few issues that brought the seller to sell her.
Power Steering: It isn't speed adaptive. There's no leaks visible but it won't stiffen at higher speeds.
Toyota Dealership said both rear axles are leaking and that I must change the right and left driveshafts.
Toyota Dealership also said that I must replace the lower ball joints, and that OEM is required.
Thanks for any advice you can provide. I'm in Las Vegas right now if you know of any good shops.
Cheers,
SexyLexyII
Last edited by SexyLexyII; 12-22-17 at 02:49 PM.
12-22-17, 09:32 AM
#2
At your age, it would be expected that the CV joint grease is liquefied, and probably leaking past the CV joint boots. That's likely what the dealer saw, and yes, the dealer repair for that would be to replace the whole axles + new CV joints with boots. You should probably take a quick look under there to see if there is splattered grease.
When I got mine at 160k miles about 10 years ago, a little liquefied grease was leaking out of the inner ends of the outboard CV joint boots.
But what I did, and what you might do if you DIY, is to first drain the old grease out. I just put something in the gap between the axle and boot to make a little opening, and jacked appropriately so gravity would patiently get the grease out.
Then I pumped in new CV grease using a grease gun and a piece of hard brake line, again tucked through at the small end of the boot. Doing this, pumping it in at the back end of the joint (as deep in there as I could get, toward the big end of the boot) forced out even more of the liquefied grease.
New small-end clamps and that was it. I never touched the big ends of the boots. Never removed anything. Did this to all 4 boots. Almost 40k miles since I did that, and no problems. Keeping grease in and dirt out will make most CV joints outlast everything else.
Last edited by oldskewel; 12-22-17 at 09:35 AM.
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SexyLexyII (12-22-17)
12-22-17, 02:10 PM
#3
A) Power Steering: It isn't speed adaptive. There's no leaks visible but it won't stiffen at higher speeds.
B) both rear axles are leaking and that I must change the right and left driveshafts.
C) Toyota Dealership said that I must replace the lower ball joints, and that OEM is required.
SexyLexyII
B) both rear axles are leaking and that I must change the right and left driveshafts.
C) Toyota Dealership said that I must replace the lower ball joints, and that OEM is required.
SexyLexyII
a) pull off the connector at the solenoid valve on the rack. Then you should have 24/7 stiffer steering. Then you will find out that you actually prefer having to participate in the steering of your automobile and your issue is over. BUT, if you really like that hideously over-boosted steering at slow speed, and you really did feel a difference in steering effort by pulling off the connector, my guess is that the p/s computer is bodged, or the speed sensor signal circuit is not communicating with the p/s computer. There is a very nice diagnostic procedure available in the workshop manual.
b) save the old driveshafts. Chances are good the metallurgy and quality is superior to what is available new. Repacking CVs is fun enough, removing the driveshafts is a bit more involved. Get new boots, the best quality you can lay your hands on. I do NOT recommend injecting replacement grease for the simple reason that a mismatch in compatibility renders both the new grease and the old grease unfit due to "soaping".
c) OEM, but heck, when an OEM part fails prematurely (an especially vexing problem on newer 4 Runners) why would you want to stick on another poorly engineered part? Can you get any sort of assurance that the current OEMs have been sorted out?
Colin
Alexus (prior)
AlexusToo (current)
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SexyLexyII (12-22-17)
12-22-17, 03:38 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
My '91 is now at 197k.
At your age, it would be expected that the CV joint grease is liquefied, and probably leaking past the CV joint boots.
But what I did, and what you might do if you DIY, is to first drain the old grease out. I just put something in the gap between the axle and boot to make a little opening, and jacked appropriately so gravity would patiently get the grease out.
Then I pumped in new CV grease using a grease gun and a piece of hard brake line, again tucked through at the small end of the boot. Doing this, pumping it in at the back end of the joint (as deep in there as I could get, toward the big end of the boot) forced out even more of the liquefied grease.
New small-end clamps and that was it. I never touched the big ends of the boots. Never removed anything. Did this to all 4 boots.
At your age, it would be expected that the CV joint grease is liquefied, and probably leaking past the CV joint boots.
But what I did, and what you might do if you DIY, is to first drain the old grease out. I just put something in the gap between the axle and boot to make a little opening, and jacked appropriately so gravity would patiently get the grease out.
Then I pumped in new CV grease using a grease gun and a piece of hard brake line, again tucked through at the small end of the boot. Doing this, pumping it in at the back end of the joint (as deep in there as I could get, toward the big end of the boot) forced out even more of the liquefied grease.
New small-end clamps and that was it. I never touched the big ends of the boots. Never removed anything. Did this to all 4 boots.
The Toyota dealership quoted me $871 per driveshaft !
It's a lifesaver
12-22-17, 03:41 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
a) pull off the connector at the solenoid valve on the rack. Then you should have 24/7 stiffer steering. Then you will find out that you actually prefer having to participate in the steering of your automobile and your issue is over. BUT, if you really like that hideously over-boosted steering at slow speed, and you really did feel a difference in steering effort by pulling off the connector, my guess is that the p/s computer is bodged, or the speed sensor signal circuit is not communicating with the p/s computer. There is a very nice diagnostic procedure available in the workshop manual.
b) save the old driveshafts. Chances are good the metallurgy and quality is superior to what is available new. Repacking CVs is fun enough, removing the driveshafts is a bit more involved. Get new boots, the best quality you can lay your hands on. I do NOT recommend injecting replacement grease for the simple reason that a mismatch in compatibility renders both the new grease and the old grease unfit due to "soaping".
c) OEM, but heck, when an OEM part fails prematurely (an especially vexing problem on newer 4 Runners) why would you want to stick on another poorly engineered part? Can you get any sort of assurance that the current OEMs have been sorted out?
Colin
I am happy to see I'm not alone in seeking to replace my lost companion. Seeing your pics made me upload one of my new prize.
I will try to figure out where that solenoid valve is under the car to unplug it. I like firm steering and it is loose as can be imagined now.
Thanks again
SexyLexyII
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12-23-17, 12:09 PM
#8
A standard grease gun will have a threaded fitting up top where the grease comes out. You should be able to find a hard brake line (typically comes with the threaded brass fittings pre-installed) that will match threads. Straight hard brake line is a standard part you can get at any auto parts store for $5-$10. If you have a choice between sizes after you find the fitting to match, smaller diameter will be easiest to slip in under the boot.
Then cut the brake line to whatever length you want. Long enough to fit to the deepest part of the CV joint. I then gently compressed the round end so it was more of a flat profile, making it easier to initially slip past the CV boot - axle interface.
Going through this effort, you'll want to use the best grease you can find. So I bought the Lexus spec grease. I think it comes in its own tube, like a tube of toothpaste, not a tube cartridge to insert in a grease gun. So I used an empty grease gun cartridge and filled it with the proper Lexus grease. Then putting that in the grease gun let it all work. Yes, a little messy, but less so than a full shaft / joint / boot removal.
Get good clamps (I seem to recall that my '91 did not even have small end clamps on it when I got it) and apply properly. No signs of leaking or any CV joint problems since I did that all about 10 years and 37k miles ago.
12-23-17, 06:42 PM
#9
What? I’m curious to know what number it is. Look into it no more than that... The first 40 were corporate cars. From then on they are out in the public. I’m starting to wonder if you think my intention is to go try to buy a new boat with the last few digits of your VIN somehow ...
*facedesk*
*facedesk*
12-23-17, 06:55 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hi Banshee,
No offense meant, it was simply a joke because I didn’t have the VIN at the time. Here it is:
EDITED OUT
No offense meant, it was simply a joke because I didn’t have the VIN at the time. Here it is:
EDITED OUT
Last edited by SexyLexyII; 05-29-18 at 11:43 PM.
12-23-17, 07:17 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hi oldskewel,That is a very detailed recollection. I can see you thought it through and had time to test your fix during ten full years!On another topic, the car rings it’s bell 8 times each time I shut off the ignition. I wonder if it’s a sign something has gone amiss? The dealership said there are no error codes in the car’s computer readout. .Thanks again for your help.,SexyLexyII
12-24-17, 11:45 AM
#13
Hi oldskewel,That is a very detailed recollection. I can see you thought it through and had time to test your fix during ten full years!On another topic, the car rings it’s bell 8 times each time I shut off the ignition. I wonder if it’s a sign something has gone amiss? The dealership said there are no error codes in the car’s computer readout. .Thanks again for your help.,SexyLexyII
But for future help in reading codes yourself, here's how to do that:
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html
Good luck.
Last edited by oldskewel; 12-24-17 at 11:56 AM.
12-27-17, 03:51 PM
#14
Lexus Test Driver
GREAT find! at almost 30 years old these are getting really hard to find these days in any kind of respectable condition. and a 90? forget it. they just dont exist anymore. please please dont mod or hack it up. so few unmolested examples left. whats the build date? production started in august 89.
12-27-17, 06:09 PM
#15
GREAT find! at almost 30 years old these are getting really hard to find these days in any kind of respectable condition. and a 90? forget it. they just dont exist anymore. please please dont mod or hack it up. so few unmolested examples left. whats the build date? production started in august 89.
Judging by the VIN, it isn’t that early.