If you fan clutch is bad, then it will make a load roar when cold. I would only go with an AISIN fan clutch as I had an aftermarket one on mine and it failed by locking up and being on the entire time, making that loud roar anytime the engine was running, at idle or at 2500rpm. When your engine is cold, you should be able to spin the fan and it should turn about 3/4 of a turn or so with some fluid resistance from the hydraulic clutch. If it doesn't spin at all or is hard to turn, the clutch is bad.

But as for the coolant bleeding, you want to remove that 17mm fill bolt, put a funnel directly into it and fill it up with coolant with the engine on until it starts overflowing when running. Also fill up the reservoir completely to the top of the cap. Then reinstall the fill bolt and run engine at 2500rpm for 5 min straight to get it hot with the heater turned to high.

After you've done this, shut the engine off and let it cool down. The engine will draw in coolant from the reservoir as it cools. When you return, add coolant if it has sucked some down to the MAX level and reinstall the radiator cap on the reservoir. For the next couple times when the engine cools, and before you do a cold start, check the level and fill as needed on the reservoir and reinstall the cap. Its a longer process than most cars, but this is the only way to do it.

You could probably wait 30 min after you shut the car off for the engine to cool and it should start sucking in coolant, then repeat. It took me about an hour and a half to do it properly and for me to feel comfortable that the coolant was sucked in properly after cooling.

 

 

 

I will probably do this still since I feel I should be getting more heat from the heater. And the roar only occurs at startup and driving slow when she's warm. I can defiantly see and hear a difference as my temperature is staying right where it should. Before startup was quiet, should have known something was up with the sound now I hear the difference but guess it just never got my attention.

Also didn't you say your car doesn't blow heat at idle or park?

No, I understand lol I was checking everything too to make sure it was none of those. Still, I feel my heater should be warmer so I will try again to get more air out. At least the overheating part has been fixed.

 

No, only when warming up, the heat is iffy, I assume because it has to get the engine warmed up as a priority first and then it'll heat the cabin? Once its been at just below middle for about 3 minutes, then it blows steady heat. I tried putting it on Max HOT and its always hot then. After about 2-3 miles of driving at a steady 50mph speed, my engine warms up in 32 degree temps to operating temp.

I still hold strong, that if you're hearing any kind of fan noise during startup, your thermostatic fan clutch is bad. Mine used to roar when bone cold overnight, or at any point really and now, I don't even hear it unless its very hot outside, which in MI it doesn't get above 80-85, unlike in AZ where it used to be 115 as you know. If you're having trouble locating an AISIN fan clutch, I've got a spare one that I'm not using. I removed it from a 96 LS, so it should match our 95-97s.

 

There is no thermostatic action through the heater core. It should get exactly the same coolant as that circulating in the heads. Air is a tricky thing, that is why Lexus recommends blasting the throttle a few times as you fill the system, it is turbulence that moves air pockets out into the coolant flow where it can then get bled out at the reservoir. It should be noted that you have to do this fill/bleed when the engine is still quite cool. As soon as the combustion chambers get up to boiling temp, the water jackets will have flash boiling as coolant strikes the hot surfaces. That then works against you.
Colin

 

 

It is a new clutch they put in so I'm not sure if it failed already but it seems to be working as my car does not overheat. The noise only occurs when the engine revs at startup then everything seems to go to normal.

Thanks, so guess only bleed it while its warming up, and once warm stop?


Thanks, I will test it out, I was reading a post where some guys cable that opens the valve broke, however, looking at mine it seems ok.

 

Winter I just saw this and thought of you...................
removed my in-car phone that came in my 98, also removed the phone ECU that was in the trunk.

I was having issues with my radio cutting out and my A/C intermittently changing blowing strength, after removing the phone ECU, haven't had those issues since.

HOPE IT WORKS

 

Thanks, however, my car does not have a Phone in it

Just wondering without the phone ECU did it blow cold when you set it to hot?