LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Rear License Plate Bolt SEIZED!

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Old 01-26-18, 06:25 AM
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2008GS
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Default Rear License Plate Bolt SEIZED!

Guys, I am seeking your ideas on how to remove a seized license plate bolt from the trunk plate receptacle on my '97 LS400. I have tried soaking it with WD40...used a long handle screwdriver for extra torque, but no go. Short of drilling it out, are there any other tips for freeing it up? The nut is encased into the truck receptacle and I do not think it is robust enough to hammer on or apply heat. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how did you resolve it?
Thank-you in advance.
Old 01-26-18, 09:06 AM
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mcomer
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Common problem I'm afraid. Drill and tap is the solution, 6 MM machine thread.
The New RX started using a nylon plastic insert in 2016...as GM has used forever...
Old 01-26-18, 04:22 PM
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RA40
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Don't hammer it. Screw extractor bits. I've also ground flats on each side of the screw head so that an adjustable wrench or locking pliers (Vise Grip) can be used. If this is a phillips/cross slot head in there drilling is easy because it is centered. I find that when I begin drilling the bit catches on and spins the screw that it can be backed out. Not always.

My order of attempts:
1. Swearing
2. Locking pliers.
3. Swearing
4. Pray that the drill doesn't wander-slip
5. Drilling a 3/16" should be safe size to not damage the threads on the lid. A #11 to follow through and the screw should be deteriorated enough afterwards that you can chase the threads with a tap.
6. Repent for all the swearing
7. Drinking Scotch and wondering why an anti-seize wasn't used.
On the re-install use anti-seize or a stainless steel type of fastener M6x1.

Last edited by RA40; 01-26-18 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 01-26-18, 04:51 PM
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YODAONE
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Originally Posted by 2008GS
Guys, I am seeking your ideas on how to remove a seized license plate bolt from the trunk plate receptacle on my '97 LS400. I have tried soaking it with WD40...used a long handle screwdriver for extra torque, but no go. Short of drilling it out, are there any other tips for freeing it up? The nut is encased into the truck receptacle and I do not think it is robust enough to hammer on or apply heat. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how did you resolve it?
Thank-you in advance.

Csn you provide image of offending fastener and work area?
Old 01-27-18, 06:26 AM
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2008GS
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Originally Posted by mcomer
Common problem I'm afraid. Drill and tap is the solution, 6 MM machine thread.
The New RX started using a nylon plastic insert in 2016...as GM has used forever...
thank you!
Old 01-27-18, 11:13 AM
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YODAONE
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Originally Posted by 2008GS
thank you!
Here....Open trunk and leave open so penetrating oil can seep vertically into threads...I prefer PB Blaster.

Set overnight... disconnect trunk lamp or negative battery clamp.
Old 01-27-18, 12:58 PM
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2008GS
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Originally Posted by YODAONE
Here....Open trunk and leave open so penetrating oil can seep vertically into threads...I prefer PB Blaster.

Set overnight... disconnect trunk lamp or negative battery clamp.
thanks yodaone I will give it a try.
Old 01-27-18, 01:01 PM
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2008GS
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Originally Posted by RA40
Don't hammer it. Screw extractor bits. I've also ground flats on each side of the screw head so that an adjustable wrench or locking pliers (Vise Grip) can be used. If this is a phillips/cross slot head in there drilling is easy because it is centered. I find that when I begin drilling the bit catches on and spins the screw that it can be backed out. Not always.

My order of attempts:
1. Swearing
2. Locking pliers.
3. Swearing
4. Pray that the drill doesn't wander-slip
5. Drilling a 3/16" should be safe size to not damage the threads on the lid. A #11 to follow through and the screw should be deteriorated enough afterwards that you can chase the threads with a tap.
6. Repent for all the swearing
7. Drinking Scotch and wondering why an anti-seize wasn't used.
On the re-install use anti-seize or a stainless steel type of fastener M6x1.
RA40, love the humor and technical step by step!
Old 01-27-18, 04:58 PM
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bradland
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When this is all said and done make a quick trip to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy some stainless hardware to replace the old.
Old 01-27-18, 07:46 PM
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Losiracer2
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If it snaps, you can try buying a left handed drill bit and drilling directly into it. I was successful in removing some snapped intake manifold studs that were below flush with the part and it was able to be extracted that way.
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