sha4000

iTrader: (1)

As Scraape said the bolt threads through both gears to lock them in place together. Honestly that was the most nerve racking part of the cam seal replacement. Once I turned the cam to line it up the bolt went in and the cam was ready to be removed. Everything after that was relatively easy even though I was real cautious at the time. I also used some white out to mark the contact points of the intake and exhaust gears so I could put it back EXACTLY as it came out.

fatalbert1

I appreciate the replies.

I received all my parts and will be starting to put everything back together again. I noticed that the water pump (toyota part) came with a gasket. The service manual instructions call for using only sealant. Has anyone done a water pump lately and did you use the gasket or go with sealant or both. I can't remember what I did on the last water pump install. Guess I will know when I remove the old one today.
Thanks,
​​​​​​​Al

fatalbert1

Update: I have the Val covers off and now enter the critical parts.

I have the crank turned to the 50 degree point per the manual. I was able to just insert the locking bolt for the passenger (right side) cam sub-gear to the main gear. It was lined up and went straight in an threaded up OK. The drivers side cams, it looks like it needs to rotate counterclockwise to bring the bolt hole around. I think I recall that being a problem for others. Before I grab the 24 mm wrench and start turning the exhaust cam I thought I better get some support from others that have done this. I double checked the crank shaft position again and the cam shats have not have not rotated since I removed the timing belt. Standing in front facing the car, I would think turning the exhaust cam counter-clockwise would bring the bolt hole around to lock the gears.

After pulling the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt drive gear, I removed the crank seal. It was so loose that I could remove it without any effort. I think that is the main source of the oil leak, but I want to do the cam seals since they are probably rock hard now.

I need a little help with the drivers side cam lock on how to proceed. In the mean time I will go back and read the manual and the other write-ups on the forum. I can see it is going to be fun trying to get the valve covers back on with the seals. It is a pretty tight work space.

Thanks,
​​​​​​​Al

TakaM

I just did the TB/water pump replacement on my 98 LS400, just like yours. I used just the gasket (no sealant).
Just make sure the water pump mating surface is very clean before installing the gasket and the water pump.

fatalbert1

Thanks for the input on the water pump gasket.

I read everything again before I can pull out the cam shafts. This is what I conclude and hope I am right. Follow the instuctions on locking the two gears on the exhaust cam with the 6mm bolt. On the passenger side the single dot on each cam were only a half a tooth off after locling the gears. Next, align the two single dots on the cams with each other. When you put the two cams back, align the two single dots. This keeps the two cams synchronized with each other.

On the drivers side. lock the two gears on the exhaust cam with the 6 mm bolt. Then align the double dots on the exhaust and intake cams. When you re install the two cams, align the double dots. This kind of all makes sense because you want to keep the two cams in the same relationship to each other when your e-install the cams as they were when they were removed.

My question that I haven't figured out yet is still on the drivers side, which way to turn the exhaust can to get the 6 mm bolt holes lined up to lock the gears. I turned the exhaust cam a little bit and the cams wanted to spring back and turn. This is where the manual and other posts on this forum went dark on what to do. If I figure it out I will post some guidance for the next fool that attempts this. There is a lot of disassembly required for the cam seals beyond the water pump and timing belt maintenance and the quarters are pretty tight at times.
Al

BiGEZ

iTrader: (24)

I know the feeling , I just completed this on my 99SC400. Turn the exhaust cam with a 24 mm wrench counter clock wise, the cam will rotate clock wise. You will get a bit of resistance but it will move easily after moving past the 90 degree position. You need to rotate it 180 degrees to get the 2 dot makings to line up.
My seals were leaking and hard as a rock.

fatalbert1

Thanks for the response. I thought overnight about the 50 degree setting and the significance of it. This morning I checked the position of each piston on the drivers side. It looked like all were in a spot where the valves if opened fully would not hit a piston. I also looked at the cam lobes to see which direction to turn the exhaust cam to have the least possibly of opening the valve on the highest piston.

I decided to rotate the exhaust cam counter- clockwise looking from the front of the engine to the back. I was able to rotate the cam enough to bring the bolt hole up and align the double dots and install the locking bolt. It was nearly 180 degrees around for the exhaust cam. So I am ready now to remove the cams. I need to go to the dealer first and get the correct seal packing since I want to put the cams back right after doing the cam seals and install the bearing caps.

I am trying to write something up here as I go so that I can at least put together a simple guide ato fill in some of the weak areas in the manual and to remember what I did.

It will be a while before I can record the results since it is cold and it will take some time to replace the parts. If some of my posts have some typo or word errors, my tablet likes to guess what I am saying and fill in words whether they are right or wrong and I don't always catch them.

spuds

Al,Im watching this thread closely,lots of pictures would really help out...A LOT!

fatalbert1

I have another question that came up. I did the water pump and crank seal this afternoon. I came up with another question that I am not sure of how to proceed. There is a warning on my cam housing cover about not touching four screws on the timing tube or you will have to replace the timing tube. There are two types of bolts/screws. one type is a star head that is black and the other is a standard hex bolt. I think it is the star screws you should not take out but the manual is not clear.

This leads me to my question. I think I can leave the timing tube on the intake cam and remove both the exhaust and intake cam out after removing the bearing caps and not fool with the bolts on the front of the timing tube. The manual then shows you putting the intake cam in a vice and removing the straight screw plug and set bolt from the intake cam, and then remove the timing tube from the cam shaft.

I think at this point you remove four bolts for the camshaft drive gear on the back side of the timing tube and can r&r the cam seal, and put it back together. Is there some reason to mess with any of the bolts on the front of the timing tube or am I missing something.

I have taken some photos and will take some more before I pull the cams out. There is a lot of info around on doing the timing belt and water pump, but I will try to document the cam seal replacement which is intimidating.

I have found a few things that the manual has you doing that is not necessary. Example, removal of the alternator - if you take off the power steering drive wheel you can just slide the alternator forward after removing a couple of bolts on the front to get the alternator out of the way. I also has you remove the throttle body which is not necessary to do the water pump.

I hope someone that has done this before can answer my question about the timing tube. I don't recommend attempting the cam seals unless you have all the parts and at least three or four days to complete the task. It would go faster if the manual had a little more detail in it.

BiGEZ

iTrader: (24)

You have to remove the four 10 mm bolts that holds the cam gears on, the four star point bolts (black in color) do not touch. You only need to loosen the exhaust caps no need to remove the exhaust cam gear. The intake cam will lift right out once the main cap and four other caps are removed.
You have to remove the 3/4" cap on the front of the cam tube and a 10mm hex bolt recessed in the cam tube, this will allow you to remove the vvti gear off the cam. Remove the 4 star bolts off the cam tube and replace the seal.
Reinstall the intake cam, lining up the 2 dots with the exhaust gear.

BiGEZ

iTrader: (24)

I used this as a guide to complete my cam seal replacement job.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...tb-removal.pdf

fatalbert1

Clarification: My question really is do you have to remove the the camshaft timing pulleys from the timing tubes to remove the timing tube from the camshafts?

fatalbert1

Thanks for the quick reply. This clears it up for me. I think I am starting to go botto thinking about this. I like the info on not having to pull out the exhaust cam.

fatalbert1

Thanks for the quick reply. This clears it up for me. I think I am starting to go botto thinking about this. I like the info on not having to pull out the exhaust cam.

fatalbert1

I see you are from Georgia. I was down there a few years ago for some work at Warner-Robbins AFB. I thought I died and went to heaven since if peach pie was a drug, I would be dead from eating it. I went all over down there and in Atlanta asking for peach pie in every resaurant I went in. No one makes peach pie there and I was told you had to go to Alabama to get peach pie. I thought it was funny since Georgia is the peach capital of the world.

We have apples in Washington and yes you can get apple pie here.

Thanks so much for the info.