Bad Master switch or dead window motor?
#1
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Bad Master switch or dead window motor?
Winter has finally disappeared in good ol' East Tennessee and I've finally had the chance to tackle the little issues.
I have a problem with, possibly, the master switch. The driver side window will roll down, but not up unless I tug and pull until it randomly decides to go up again, IF IT DOES. The other 3 windows work perfectly fine. I can hear all the clicks when I mess with the other windows, but I hear nothing when trying to mess with the drivers window.
I took off the switch, and looked at it, and it looks like the metal/copper lead going to the drivers switch is "burnt" or kind of a warped color but everything else looks mint.
So could I save a few dollars by just buying a master switch or do I need to dig deeper to see if the window motor is bad (too)?
I have a problem with, possibly, the master switch. The driver side window will roll down, but not up unless I tug and pull until it randomly decides to go up again, IF IT DOES. The other 3 windows work perfectly fine. I can hear all the clicks when I mess with the other windows, but I hear nothing when trying to mess with the drivers window.
I took off the switch, and looked at it, and it looks like the metal/copper lead going to the drivers switch is "burnt" or kind of a warped color but everything else looks mint.
So could I save a few dollars by just buying a master switch or do I need to dig deeper to see if the window motor is bad (too)?
#2
I have swapped out and cannibalised many of these switches. They are very temperamental and extremely fragile these days.
I would honestly start buying a few when you see them. Get a working one and check if it works. Always replace the cheapest part first after diagnosis.
I would honestly start buying a few when you see them. Get a working one and check if it works. Always replace the cheapest part first after diagnosis.
#3
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Thread Starter
I have swapped out and cannibalised many of these switches. They are very temperamental and extremely fragile these days.
I would honestly start buying a few when you see them. Get a working one and check if it works. Always replace the cheapest part first after diagnosis.
I would honestly start buying a few when you see them. Get a working one and check if it works. Always replace the cheapest part first after diagnosis.
#4
#5
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Thread Starter
Actually yes. Surprised to see a comment 2 years later.
The original master switch had archs and whatnot along the path for the drivers switch and part of the passenger switch. Plugged in the new switch and Everything worked perfectly fine afterwards. Its definitely the cheaper option to go for to sort out whether it' a switch or a window motor.
The original master switch had archs and whatnot along the path for the drivers switch and part of the passenger switch. Plugged in the new switch and Everything worked perfectly fine afterwards. Its definitely the cheaper option to go for to sort out whether it' a switch or a window motor.
#6
What are the symptoms your car has?
I would recommend testing the motor first, before buying the switch. All it takes is a battery and a few jumper wires to the connector.
Does your window work at all? Does the motor make any noise? Do your other windows work?
I would recommend testing the motor first, before buying the switch. All it takes is a battery and a few jumper wires to the connector.
Does your window work at all? Does the motor make any noise? Do your other windows work?
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#9
Driver School Candidate
Winter has finally disappeared in good ol' East Tennessee and I've finally had the chance to tackle the little issues.
I have a problem with, possibly, the master switch. The driver side window will roll down, but not up unless I tug and pull until it randomly decides to go up again, IF IT DOES. The other 3 windows work perfectly fine. I can hear all the clicks when I mess with the other windows, but I hear nothing when trying to mess with the drivers window.
I took off the switch, and looked at it, and it looks like the metal/copper lead going to the drivers switch is "burnt" or kind of a warped color but everything else looks mint.
So could I save a few dollars by just buying a master switch or do I need to dig deeper to see if the window motor is bad (too)?
I have a problem with, possibly, the master switch. The driver side window will roll down, but not up unless I tug and pull until it randomly decides to go up again, IF IT DOES. The other 3 windows work perfectly fine. I can hear all the clicks when I mess with the other windows, but I hear nothing when trying to mess with the drivers window.
I took off the switch, and looked at it, and it looks like the metal/copper lead going to the drivers switch is "burnt" or kind of a warped color but everything else looks mint.
So could I save a few dollars by just buying a master switch or do I need to dig deeper to see if the window motor is bad (too)?
Cheers
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CELSI0R (04-16-20)
#10
Are your symptoms the same as stoney's? I would also test your window motor, in case it isn't the switch.
#11
The same exact symptoms.I already opened and tried re-soldering some contact points on the master switch.The second junkyard switch had the window lock button not either staying down or up.3 rd switch is on its way.Upon arrival, I will pb blaster the regulator while changing .We will see when it arrives.
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