Need Suggestions: Suspension and Alignment
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Need Suggestions: Suspension and Alignment
Hello fellow LS owners! I have been pondering this question of whether or not to repair my suspension/struts and strut mounts after some 15 years of my Dad owning this car in bone shivering North Carolina. When he gave up his Lexus to me after he purchased a new mercedes, I noticed that the suspension system, particularly in tse front, was very bad off. If i go over a hump, i would have to take my time because the gas charged struts are so worn out, the car bounces on the front right mount and you can hear and feel a loud knock going over a speed hump. I knew this was going to be a pretty pocket clenching job so i put it off. That was three years ago and it is really bad now to the point where my mechanic has said that the tie rods are also giving out and i could lose steering eventually. He quoted me for both the rack and pinion assembly and the front struts. It does not feel comfortable driving on the highway so i stick to back roads and avoid pot holes at ALL costs lol.
struts: $452.04 Labor: $382.79
Strut mounts: $150.46 Labor: included in the mounting of struts.
As for the steering rack and pinion assembly:
Tie Rod End-Left out- $47.89
Steering Rack- $783
Tie Rod End-Right Out- $57.11 Estimated labor for whole job 382.79
year
This is a big job but with the condition my car is in, i dont think i have much of a choice. And I am not looking to purchase/lease for a newer car especially when i replaced the engine and transmission and other major components in the car a while ago. It still has some years left in it and would like to keep it running.
So my question is should i go for the replacement of the struts and mounts or go down a different path such as a coil over kit looking at price.
struts: $452.04 Labor: $382.79
Strut mounts: $150.46 Labor: included in the mounting of struts.
As for the steering rack and pinion assembly:
Tie Rod End-Left out- $47.89
Steering Rack- $783
Tie Rod End-Right Out- $57.11 Estimated labor for whole job 382.79
year
This is a big job but with the condition my car is in, i dont think i have much of a choice. And I am not looking to purchase/lease for a newer car especially when i replaced the engine and transmission and other major components in the car a while ago. It still has some years left in it and would like to keep it running.
So my question is should i go for the replacement of the struts and mounts or go down a different path such as a coil over kit looking at price.
#2
coilover is only an option if you want to lower the car significantly. it will be a much more stiff ride quality which is not consistent with the lexus comfort you've known (even with blown suspension). keep this in mind if you want to still consider coilovers.
you are on the right path looking at replacing the struts and there are many threads here to show what brands are best for your budget.
as for the steering rack, how do you know it's bad? did you go down there and inspect? did a shop tell you so?
the knocking could be as simple as a sway bar endlink or the more common issue is a worn out strut rod bushing (search these forums for more).
my last question is what possible issue caused a complete engine and transmission change on the car?! how many miles are on the clock today? what year is the car?
you are on the right path looking at replacing the struts and there are many threads here to show what brands are best for your budget.
as for the steering rack, how do you know it's bad? did you go down there and inspect? did a shop tell you so?
the knocking could be as simple as a sway bar endlink or the more common issue is a worn out strut rod bushing (search these forums for more).
my last question is what possible issue caused a complete engine and transmission change on the car?! how many miles are on the clock today? what year is the car?
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
coilover is only an option if you want to lower the car significantly. it will be a much more stiff ride quality which is not consistent with the lexus comfort you've known (even with blown suspension). keep this in mind if you want to still consider coilovers.
you are on the right path looking at replacing the struts and there are many threads here to show what brands are best for your budget.
as for the steering rack, how do you know it's bad? did you go down there and inspect? did a shop tell you so?
the knocking could be as simple as a sway bar endlink or the more common issue is a worn out strut rod bushing (search these forums for more).
my last question is what possible issue caused a complete engine and transmission change on the car?! how many miles are on the clock today? what year is the car?
you are on the right path looking at replacing the struts and there are many threads here to show what brands are best for your budget.
as for the steering rack, how do you know it's bad? did you go down there and inspect? did a shop tell you so?
the knocking could be as simple as a sway bar endlink or the more common issue is a worn out strut rod bushing (search these forums for more).
my last question is what possible issue caused a complete engine and transmission change on the car?! how many miles are on the clock today? what year is the car?
As for the rack and pinion quote, my car is out of alignment. No matter how many times I go to get an alignment, the steering wheel goes right back to a 5 o'clock position to the right. I think this is also what contributes to my uneven tire wear on my rear tires. The right rear tire's threading is significantly reduced as compared to the left rear tire. When my car is out on the lift, you can literally see the tire wobble as it goes up. It does not feel like it is firmly secured to the axle (I suppose).
Last edited by magnificen; 04-24-18 at 02:54 PM.
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hey all. I am reopening this thread because I have made a decision but still want to get some more feedback from you all. I have decided to go down the road of replacing the worn out shocks with aftermarket kyb shocks since coil overs seem cool but not practical to my driving habits. It is hard finding a shop to do the work with my own parts so its looking like a diy job but seems like a big job. I know there are posts on here about this type of work already but I just want to hear from anyone that has done the job themselves (coil over/shock change) how long it took, tools needed, etc.
#5
suspension swap is pretty straightforward but if you're not comfortable with a spring compressor I highly suggest you take it to a professional.
I think the hardest part is getting access to the rear top hats which are behind the rear seat backs (which require removal of the seat bottoms first).
the rest of the suspension is simple (relatively). it was still a good 5 hours for me with hand tools and a floor jack.
here are steps from an IS...if you think this is daunting, please save your $ and take it to a professional.
there has to be some indy shop that can do it with parts you bring.
note: I found it easier to remove the two bolts holding the front knuckle to the lower ball joint, rather than remove the upper a-arm as shown in the link.
unbolting the front knuckle is how the FSM dictates how it's done.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...our-isx50.html
I think the hardest part is getting access to the rear top hats which are behind the rear seat backs (which require removal of the seat bottoms first).
the rest of the suspension is simple (relatively). it was still a good 5 hours for me with hand tools and a floor jack.
here are steps from an IS...if you think this is daunting, please save your $ and take it to a professional.
there has to be some indy shop that can do it with parts you bring.
note: I found it easier to remove the two bolts holding the front knuckle to the lower ball joint, rather than remove the upper a-arm as shown in the link.
unbolting the front knuckle is how the FSM dictates how it's done.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...our-isx50.html
#6
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
A lowered suspension will go in easier due to the reduced 2-5" less length to deal with the assembly. I was slower than timmy, going over 6 hours. The shops local to me will install each corner at $50-$100 with customer supplied parts. Shop around. One of the shops I had called relayed a 2 hour turn-around when doing shock replacement. They had a really sick spring compressor so getting each shock in-out was like 10 minutes.
Similar to this one:
If you want to DIY and not have to deal with compressing the springs which is slow with hand tools and dangerous, take them to a shop. They will probably charge $25 for each unit and have it remounted in under an hour. That will save you a good amount of time.
Similar to this one:
If you want to DIY and not have to deal with compressing the springs which is slow with hand tools and dangerous, take them to a shop. They will probably charge $25 for each unit and have it remounted in under an hour. That will save you a good amount of time.
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
A lowered suspension will go in easier due to the reduced 2-5" less length to deal with the assembly. I was slower than timmy, going over 6 hours. The shops local to me will install each corner at $50-$100 with customer supplied parts. Shop around. One of the shops I had called relayed a 2 hour turn-around when doing shock replacement. They had a really sick spring compressor so getting each shock in-out was like 10 minutes.
Similar to this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIR-QSgsOVg
If you want to DIY and not have to deal with compressing the springs which is slow with hand tools and dangerous, take them to a shop. They will probably charge $25 for each unit and have it remounted in under an hour. That will save you a good amount of time.
Similar to this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIR-QSgsOVg
If you want to DIY and not have to deal with compressing the springs which is slow with hand tools and dangerous, take them to a shop. They will probably charge $25 for each unit and have it remounted in under an hour. That will save you a good amount of time.
Trending Topics
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Update:
Hey all! So i decided to make the choice and go with the repair. The total came up close to three grand but it was well worth it! My LS rides like a dream. The handling has improved tremendously and i no longer have uneven tire wear which was killing me. The repairs were done in 2 days and was well worth it. Thanks again for all the feedback.
Hey all! So i decided to make the choice and go with the repair. The total came up close to three grand but it was well worth it! My LS rides like a dream. The handling has improved tremendously and i no longer have uneven tire wear which was killing me. The repairs were done in 2 days and was well worth it. Thanks again for all the feedback.
The following users liked this post:
Sin1UZFE (05-16-19)
#9
Racer
What all did you have done?
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I had the left rear wheel bearing and wheel hub replaced and, the steering rack and pinion, and the front struts replaced this go around at the shop. Rides beautifully.
The following users liked this post:
spuds (05-20-19)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mb12345
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
14
08-09-20 01:33 PM