This happened after my fiance drove the car to Target about 10 miles from the house. According to her it drove fine and then she parked it and came back out after about an hour and she said it was taking a while to start and then wouldn't drive. I get there an hour or so later and investigate. Car takes about 5 times longer to start and then once it starts it seemingly runs fine but the check engine light is on. The car will actually drive but its definitely in limp home, when in drive it seems to start in a higher gear, If you put it in low or 2 it will drive somewhat normally. I tried to flash codes and nothing came up, I also tried to use our shops Snap-On Solus scan tool and it didn't show any codes either. Doing some research someone mentioned the ECU might be bad? Everything in my diagnostic experience points to crank or cam sensor that's faulty. I tried replacing the crank sensor and no change, also the driver side cam sensor with no change (currently in the process of doing the passenger side but its a pain in the *** so I put a pin in that till I'm back from vacation).

Any input would be greatly appreciated

 

is the CEL constantly on now?

try to get the codes this way.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

 

If you read my post closely I have already tried to flash codes using that method. I have also used a Snap-on code reader with no such luck... The issue I'm having is that there are no codes at all, and yes the check engine light is on solid when it finally starts.

Seriously no one has run into this issue yet???

 

You have a fault code. Either get a better code reader or have a shop get the code. What year is your car?

 

I have a better code reader at my disposal than most @ my shop. Its a Snap on Solus and something is telling me that if its an issue with the ECU that's the reason why I can't pull codes. Car 94 LS400

 

Hey mate.

Could be the ecu. However sometimes codes aren't thrown.

While getting mine back on the rode I had no code or Cel for no fuel pump or bad leads which fried a cat.

If you want to keep the car, inspection and repair of the ecu caps is a must so do that first. I did mine and it was my first attempt at soldering. You need to do it even if it's not at fault

 

Ok awesome thanks for the input! I pulled the ECU out yesterday and opened it up. You can see that someone has been in there before, there is a lot of writing and there are some circuits that look to be a little off. I'm gonna try a used ECU and see if that helps. And then I'll probably send mine off to get repaired.

 

http://www.driftmotion.com/1UZ-ECU-C...e-p/dm1676.htm
=======================
No connection to these folks,just passing along
---------------------------------------------------Part Number: 1UZ ECU Cap Service

Availability:: Usually Ships in 1 to 2 Weeks
Product Code: DM1676

1UZ ECU Capacitor Replacement Service. This is NOT to purchase an ECU from Driftmotion, this is a service we offer to replace leaking capacitors on customer's 1UZ ECU's. The original electrolytic capacitors on these ECU's will eventually leak and cause damage to the circuit board. Leaking caps can cause hard starting, stalling at random, surging idle, super rich fuel mixtures, erroneous engine trouble codes, etc... We have fixed over 2500 ECU's and counting. We do not have any stock 1UZ ECU's for sale, we only do repairs on units sent in by customers. To have us change the capacitors on your 1UZ ECU, please follow these instructions: Please purchase this item on our website, and put a copy of the invoice in the box with your ECU. Package the ECU very well with packing material like bubble wrap or peanuts. We will put $250 worth of insurance on the return shipment of your ECU. Send the ECU to: Driftmotion, 8975 Vernon Ave, Unit D, Montclair, CA 91763 NOTE: Please do not send in an ecu that someone else has attempted a poorly done previous repair, in that case the ecu will be shipped back to you and you will be refunded minus the cost of the return shipping.
===========================
EDIT-I also did a internet search on this company,they got 4.9/5 on facebook,and 5/5 on Yelp.I’ve never seen ratings like that on anything before.

 

Sounds like the ecu to me, I had a similar issue with my 96. Ran rough, Trans stuck in 4th gear (but could manually shift) drivers side bank exhaust was hot as haites, while the passenger side was cold. One of the capacitors blew (common problem) and the electrolytes eventually corroded the traces on the board. A capacitor replacement service (like said above) is the way to go if the ecu board is not damaged, I would highly recommend getting a known good replacement ecu to replace the capacitors on though.


the capacitor on the right leaked onto the board traces and what i believe to be a transistor.... eventually corroding and killing the circuit.

 

Just in case anyone uses this for search the issue was the ECU, replaced it and the car is running fine. I was doubtful at first because I didn't see any obvious signs of corrosion on the circuit. Sure enough the ECU fixed the issue and all is well.

Side note: a federal ECU will run a California car

 

Congratulations on your fix.
You could have saved a lot more time if you had known it which I had written here long time ago.
Anyway, thanks for the report. This sure will help others who are having the similar problem.

 

There were no obvious signs that the ECU was bad, the circuits were not corroded