PhilipMidd

I've been doing some research on dash problems and lights.
1. I have at least one light out (one of the projector lights that project from outside and on top of the dash).
Here is a pic of the dash with as many lights as I could get a picture of on...

This was done by turning on (or off) as much stuff that would show a light on the dash and taking a pic as soon as I turned the ignition on (and before some of of the lights go out).
The missing highlighted one seems to be dead. I dont even know what it is meant to be. I also realize that some of this may be reversed from what the US is used to seeing (RH Drive car, I'm in Australia and this car was imported direct from Japan by the original owners).
Before taking it apart, can someone tell me what light(s) do I need (LED's, standard incandescent bulbs, something special)? to replace the dead projector light? I would like to get some in advance so I can simply replace them when I take out the dash and the above shroud that houses the projector lamps. I understand that the connectors on the back of the Instrument cluster may be brittle and easily break, hence if I can take it out as few times as possible, I'm less likely to snap something.

2. My entire center panel (just above the 3rd party radio) is dark (form the LCD Display to the radio). I had assumed this was a power issue (blown fuse or bad connection somewhere) or maybe because someone has pulled out the original stock radio and put in a Sony, but all fuses are ok and I now read that the center console lights and maybe some functionality there is controlled at least in part by the circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster.
Apparently there are 3 caps on that circuit board that fail and cause light and functionality to go out in both the instrument cluster and in the center panel.
I have included a pic of the panel I'm talking about, and the section inside the red square is what does not light up, or function. Hence, at the moment, I have no AC / Heater or Front / Rear Demisters.

Is this a common problem with this panel? If so, does anyone know the fix? Does anyone know the value of these 3 caps?

Thanks guys.

PhilipMidd

OK. I'm now assuming that the missing light I have highlighted in the dash is the door open (door ajar) light. All cars have a door open light and Mine does not seem to have that... so I'm guessing its that.
I'm also looking into pulling that Sony (and storage tray) out and installing an Android Car Stereo unit. Looking for a reasonably fast one thats 2 Din 4+1 speakers, GPS, BT, Wifi, etc but not going to necessarily bother with CD/DVD player. USB or SD cards or just BT to phone for music now.

I'm going to try and find the 89 or 90-94 Lexus LS400 cap values (probably the same as the 89 Celsior) and anything else that commonly dies on the dash PCB. I want to get them in advance so when I take the thing apart I can just replace anything that I find burnt out and put the car back together again straight away.. My Celsior is my only driver atm, with the exception of the R6 and its a bit cold and wet to use the bike for commuting to work here (Winter weather here in Australia atm).
Any recommendations as to what else I should probably get, or where I can find the values?

Thanks.

Stereorob

you have gauges that are not burned out half dead or flickering, like every damn one of them seem to have lol. screw the little projector warning light. lol

PhilipMidd

Mmm. If I wasnt keeping it, I would agree. I didnt notice it till weeks after I purchased the car, so probably a new buyer would not as well.
I really want to keep this thing and restore it to full function - even if thats not exactly to it full former glory. Its just a huge learning curve I was not expecting.
Now that your mention flickering, I have noticed that the TRC lamp is not as bright as it could be, and if you look at it carefully, its flickering.
Maybe that shroud that holds the projector lamps comes off easy. I will have a look tomorrow.

CELSI0R

Your door ajar light is out. You can also find this out by taking a camera under the bezel, and shining a light up to look at the lens, which has the symbol printed on it.

Here is a demonstration from the Toyota museum:

I've been trying to study Celsiors and their differences from the LS for years. This is fascinating stuff - hence, my username.

Also, unplug your battery before removing the dash bezel. You only need to remove the bezel and not the whole dash cluster to change the warning bulbs. If you don't unplug the battery, you will need to do the air bag warning light reset procedure, which is a pain - I just did it 2 months ago when I changed a bulb on my dash.

Here are instructions for removing the bezel. Only go up to step 7!!

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/elect...ntcluster.html

Here is a list of bulbs. I believe you are looking for 83109-30070. Double check and verify with online photos or the physical item.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/light...htinginfo.html

EDIT:

For your climate control:

• The LCD screen becoming blacked out or "bleeding" is very common. Because it is a Celsior, you may need a JDM Celsior LCD replacement screen to be soldered onto the board. LS 400s have the buttons for the clock (H, M, :00) on the opposite side, so I'm not sure if the pins are the same
• the LEDs on the climate control do not often go out. This will need further research.

Here is how to replace the screen:
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/light...LCDscreen.html

Stereorob

ill second that. every single early 10 ive ever had, has had the blacked out climate control display. it a very well known problem and has been going on for a very long time. even the ones i had back in the day had that issue. the ucf10 cluster isnt super hard to remove, just have to be very careful as the plastics are very old and brittle. youll snap the bezel if not careful.

Stereorob

btw, this might sound insane, but try to find an original stereo for it. youd be surprised how good they really sound if working properly. especially if its the Nak version. cd player went out in my first 90 and it was a nak car. replaced it with the nicest aftermarket head unit i could find, and it still never sounded as good as the original.

spuds

Im just a dummy on audio but nephew hooked up this amplifier with a super (equalizer?) digital thing with a bunch of frequencies it could control and holy cow did he get some amazing sound going.He hooked that up in one test configuration to one of the cheapest 20 dollar China car radios you can get and was putting out tremendous audio.LOL,he looked like a mad scientist adjusting all the *****,heehee!

Another laugh.So he has a ton of equipment and speakers all over the place etc etc etc and with this giant mass of stuff and all the configurations he is showing me all his wiring looked NASA spec.A work of art.

PhilipMidd

Stereorob: Thanks for the tip regarding the original sterio, but I'm not an audio guy. I'm more interested in features than I am the utmost sound quality. For the most part, providing I cant hear static or distortion in music, I'm happy enough with it. I'm thinking about putting in a 2 Din Andriod unit. I have a 3D printer with a 300x300 (1'x1') base so I can make a shroud and support structure for it.

Can anyone tell me where I can find the values of the caps (Capacitors) for the dash cluster? I'm happy to replace all the caps, I just gotta find what values they are so I can buy them all.
Also, do they need to be as high spec as the ECU caps?

Thanks.