Rokas

I just spoke to someone who put some doubt in my mind so maybe one of you has some experience with this. I have your typical house use impact drill which I was going to use to drill through the hood to install hood pins but is it strong enough? Something is telling me I might need something more powerful. It depends on how thick the hood is, I guess. Thanks. I just don't want to damage it and get stuck with a shallow hole.

YODAONE

What local sanctioning authority mandates hood pins?

As for the drill...probably will go through the hood ....and for that matter, the windshield....provided you throw it hard enough...LOL

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

A few issues:

"impact drill" - what exactly is this? Is it a drill/driver or an impact driver? The drill/driver on drill setting is the thing you want to use. An impact driver (those typically have a 1/4" hex quick release chuck) is NOT what you want to drill a hole in steel (or pretty much anything else except the easiest of materials).

At least as important as the correct drill is to use the right drill bits. It is amazing what good sharp Cobalt bits will cut through vs. others that may look pretty nice too.

In general, drilling through mild steel (i.e., not hardened like for example the ball on a ball joint) is definitely possible. I expect the hood is drillable with the right drill, bits (yes, more than one, don't go for the final hole on the first pass, start smaller), some cutting fluid, and a steady hand. You'll also want to figure out the pressure to apply and right speed to be cutting at - it depends on the material, the bit, and the size, but you basically want the bit to be cutting a steady stream of metal off, not spinning / buffing / heating up. This last one can be tricky to learn, but can make a big difference.

A countersink to clean up the final hole will be nice, but sometimes you can do OK with a bigger drill bit just on the surface.

If you're going to have some sort of flange to go over the hole, finish quality of the hole you end up with becomes less of a concern. It would be good to practice on some other similar metal first - any junk yards nearby? I guarantee your second hole will be better than the first one. And the third one ...

Good luck.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

oldskewel has you.

I question the need for a hood pin but that's your choice.

The impact drill will likely have a drill only setting, that is what you'll want to use. Center punch the exact area to reduce bit wandering. Use blue tape on and around the area so that the steel shavings/chips don't scratch the surrounding painted area. The 135 degree split point bits are good for the starting hole because they tend to wander less by design. My suggestion would be to drill a pilot hole then go up. Start with a 1/8" and go up in 2X increments, 1/4" or 3/8", 1/2 or 5/8". Be careful of the large bits because they can grab and twist the drill from your hand if they catch on the steel ruining the hole. If drilling carbon fiber, use a fresh cobalt or TiN type coated bit. HSS black oxide or polished will dull very quickly and leave a ragged hole/tear out or chip if going aggressively. Go easy with CF, chipping out the backside of the hole comes to easy so let the bit cut and lighten up on the feed rate before the bit goes all the way through. You can feel it but that takes practice as mentioned above.

Moarpower

I built a steel frame boxing ring with a cordless drill and a few batteries.

A cordless drill will easily drill through the thin sheet metal of a hood.

The issue you will have will be if you press too hard and drill too fast. Heat will quickly dull your dill bits. Don't use the impact or hammer setting on your drill.

Rokas

The last 3 replies were exactly what I needed to know. Thanks so much guys.

I appreciate mentioning it but yes, I am drilling multiple holes starting with a small one. Also I'm planning on smoothing the exposed metal and putting some paint there so rust doesn't develop. The car is going to get a new paint job anyway.

Hood pins certainly are NOT needed for this car but I happen to like the look. Actually, I love it. That's the only reason I'm doing this and I think that's a good reason. Don't worry, I'm not gonna ruin the car. Can always patch it if I want the pins off.

I have two different bits. I can't take a pic of the drill I have but it's a generic drill with a battery. I'm sorry, I really don't know the differences between drills. My dad said it was an "impact drill" but I have a feeling he doesn't know what that means...

Here are the bits. The cone shaped one has a different connector and was given to me specifically to drill through a hood. At the same time, I know the hood is sheet metal and I feel like I can do it with the regular drill I have which is probably what I'm gonna do.

Thanks for all the tips as far as drilling goes.


These are the ones I have that fit in my drill bit.

This other one...

Has a connector for a different drill and I think it's meant for steel.

Considering the fact that the hood is pretty thin, am I good with the top bit type? Or should I go ahead and borrow the drill for the cone bit?

As for the junkyard, yeah, I'm heading out there soon before I damage my baby.

Moarpower

If you are just going through the hood skin, then yes, use the top bit. Dont use a step bit like below. You will likely need a smaller size bit to do a pilot hole. This will also help you not press too hard and dent the hood.

acarapella

Hi,

a "regular" drill will go through 1/4" plate steel. I have made many things out of quarter plate and I used either a relatively small craftsman AC drill or a $19 dollar harbor freight one. In theory, if you were to keep it straight and lubricated, a regular bit and drill can go the bit's depth into steel. To answer your question, yes
Drew

dicer

When drilling you don't use the impact or rather the torque limiting mode. Impact or Hammer drills are for concrete and actually hammer like a small jack hammer.
Most of these cordless drills are like I say torque limiting and it sounds like a little air impact wrench when it does it.
I have a dewalt and it would drill through a piece of metal steel or aluminum what ever thickness you feel like you would care to deal with and proper drill length. So sheet metal is so easy if you had an old hand crank drill it would work. So ????? No problemo.

spuds

Awaiting the pictures

Michael88

I wouldn't drill multiple holes (small ---> large) or the next bit will bind on you. Creating lots of problems. Just drill the right size hole the first time.

Moarpower

You will only bind if the 2 holes are too similar in size. A pilot hole should be much smaller than the final.

Rokas

I'm borrowing the drill again today and if I feel OK after work, I'm heading to the junkyard. I've been having really bad health issues but what can you do.

I wanted to show you guys a 2 minute video of an LS400 drift car that is a big inspiration to me. The hood pins with the clean look are amazing.


And I just ordered some clear adhesive yellow film to tint my lights. No, I'm not ripping this guy off completely... I've wanted yellow lights forever cause when I grew up in Europe, ALL cars had yellow headlights.

I have spacers in the mail... Damnit I'm excited!!!

Moarpower

Yeah its a cool car. Yellow headlights look pretty cool also. IM still looking for a good way to delete my side mirrors so I can install some fender mirrors.

Michael88

you got guts