magnificen

UPDATE:

Just took my car down to the mechanic and they are now working to diagnose the problem. However, before I took it to them, i went to an auto parts store and had them charge the battery for me because it had not been cranked in 3 days. On the first crank before taking it there, it took 10 seconds for the engine to turn over and finally started up. Dash lights were very dim so i turned off everything that could kill my battery. They charged it for about 30 minutes and it started up like nothing was ever wrong with it. As of right now, Im just hoping it is just the battery not being able to hold a charge and not the alternator. I will keep you all updated.

magnificen

So i just got my car back from the shop and told that everything from the starter, the alternator, and battery were checked and everything was good. Before I went, i got a battery charge from the auto parts store and made my way to the mechanics shop. After I had gotten the charge, the engine started without any problems, This was not under any type of load, however. When I got the car back from the mechanics, I was on my way home with the radio and lights off. I get home and notice that my engine light is on so i stop the car and head to the auto parts store. After i started it there was no engine light but it is not starting automatically. The starter clicks 20 times before the engine turns over and back to square one. The auto parts store clerk asks to see the mechanic diagnostics sheet and it turns out they did not even indicate the voltage the battery was holding nor the voltage the alternator was putting out. He then tests the battery and alternator and the alternator was only putting out 11 and a half volts. This was under load so i don't think the mechanics tested it under load. I called the shop and told them I would be there first thing in the morning (hopefully). So again, I am back to square one but i did not mention the test the auto store did on the systems to the mechanic. Any thoughts as to what this may be? Alternator? Battery?

Yamae

Sounds like your alternator is not working right. Sometimes it works but not always. In order to confirm, I'd monitor the voltage at the cigarette lighter using this type of simple voltage meter. It only costs $2 and easy to use.

Kansas

Did the shop check the starter for excess current draw? There are specs for the maximum acceptable amp draw but I no longer have them. It sure sounds like the problem is the starter. The starter on the 2000 LS400 I drove for 11 years caused the same symptoms at about 150,000 miles.

magnificen

Yea, according to them, they checked the starter but like i said, on the diagnostic sheet, they did not mention any voltage on the battery or alternator. They just told me your starter and your alternator and battery seem fine. If it were the starter though, would there even be a click during cranking? I am assuming that clicking sound I here before the engine turns over is the starter working. Correct me if I am wrong.

Losiracer2

So here's what I'm thinking is happening. Your alternator is crapping out due to power steering fluid leaking onto it, causing the alternator to fail, in turn causing the battery to not charge and fail as well. Is the alternator really greasy and wet like fluid is leaking on it? Can you get a good view of it? Might have to remove some of the intake depending on if you have a 95-97 or a 98-00 model.

The alternator going bad will cause the battery to run down and make the car run with the check engine light on as its probably running on 10-11 volts and not allowing the accessories to function properly.

magnificen

Yea. The power steering fluid is the likely culprit. And the hose going from the pump to the reservoir was a little wet but I cant get a good view of the alternator. Its a 96. I just dont have the told to get to it.

magnificen

I took it back to my mechanic and they tested the voltage on the battery and alternator and got back a very low reading from the alternator which was about 11 and a half volts. I asked them why it didn't show up on the initial test and it was probably because the charge on the battery i got from the auto store that gave them a false reading of 14 volts the first time. So thank goodness for that. Now, is it recommended that I purchase a new battery also? The auto parts store guy gave me a brief explanation of why but still not too clear. Thanks again for all the help.

Yamae

So the voltage now dropped down to 11.5V although it was 14V before.

You probably have a problem at the slip ring and the brushes in the alternator. When those begins to fail, the voltage becomes unstable because the continuity between them is not stable. This often happens when the oil invaded there and then brushes are soaked. Usually the dropping oil from the power steering pump causes this problem. Sometimes the leaked oil from the cover gasket of the right bank does so. Soaked brushes by the oil becomes soft and those damage the slip ring.

Kansas

Yes, there was a clicking sound when the starter started failing at around 150,000 miles on my 2000 LS400. Have your shop provide you with the amp draw of the starter and compare it against the maximum in the specifications. If your shop doesn't know how to do this, move on to a different repair shop or take your car to a Lexus dealer.

The amp draw of my starter was super high and way out of specs when it began to intermittently fail.

How many miles are on your LS400? Starters on these cars often fail between 150,000 and 200,000 miles.

magnificen

I have replaced the alternator as of today and now everything seems back to normal. I will ask them about the starter the next time i go there.

magnificen

Yes. You are correct because I do have a slow leak on my psp but my mechanic said the alternator had no sign of fluid or corrosion so we'll see. Mind you, i could not drive the car to the mechanic so i stopped by the auto store and got a charge on my battery for about 30 minutes. When I left to go to the mechanic they checked all my systems and could not pin point the problem because of that charge that i got from the auto store, giving them a false diagnosis. They might not have tested it under load is my conclusion. I left and started having problems with it so the next day (today) i took it back and was getting an 11.5 volt reading. So my alternator is replaced now. My question however was not answered about whether or not i should replace the battery after replacing the alternator.

spuds

Most auto parts stores are happy to do a free battery test.

dicer

Most of the time the alternator just needs a good cleaning inside and out, and a new brush block assy. The idle up valve is likely leaking and normally replacing the orings fixes it. No bother hood with mechanics like some professions. I think most all the shops are staffed with idiots, that are out to make a fast buck. Like the dope outfit that retro fitted my wifes cars ac system to 134 not a lexus. And another one that multipoint inspected before doing yeah another ac system on step kids car, and about a month later the alternator craps out, and found backed of plus bat terminal connection not tight at all, maybe a setup to cause a problem down the road?? They can act like they know it all and the proof is in the puddin they don't know much. My opinion

spuds

'They' say you need 3 things in life.A good Dr.,a good lawyer and a good mechanic. All I have covered is the Dr. part unless I wrench on it myself.I did have a guy do a couple repairs on my Jetta that were good and fair.
Sure wish I had a mechanic I could trust the lexus to.