LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Car won't start and loud clicking noise

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Old 10-22-18, 02:32 PM
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magnificen
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Default Car won't start and loud clicking noise

Hello. I have a 96 LS 400 which began giving me symptoms about 4 days ago. It was so hard for the engine to crank but once started, ran like normal. It got worse and worse each day so decided to test my battery and came back with a good test but the battery was slightly drained. I self disgnosed as the alternator not charging up the battery (im probably wrong?) What else could it possibly be? Yesterday, tried starting it and it wouldnt even turn. The lo lights would come on but no noise except for a loud, continuous click. Thanks.
Old 10-22-18, 03:35 PM
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valex
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It’s probably starter, multiple posts about it, big job.
Having lights, radio, ac/heat off helps starting it for a while. My 99LS was starting ok in summer, but when it got colder, problem reappeared. I had been putting the job off for almost two years and finally did I couple weeks ago.
Old 10-22-18, 04:20 PM
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magnificen
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Originally Posted by valex
It’s probably starter, multiple posts about it, big job.
Having lights, radio, ac/heat off helps starting it for a while. My 99LS was starting ok in summer, but when it got colder, problem reappeared. I had been putting the job off for almost two years and finally did I couple weeks ago.
Yea I noticed that too. How much did the job cost plus labor?
Old 10-22-18, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by magnificen
Yea I noticed that too. How much did the job cost plus labor?
Sit down.Have smelling salts and a cardiac-defibrillator handy.....

Old 10-22-18, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by spuds
Sit down.Have smelling salts and a cardiac-defibrillator handy.....
Um ok...im not what you are saying
Old 10-22-18, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by magnificen
Yea I noticed that too. How much did the job cost plus labor?
I didn’t pay for it, did it myself. Took me 3 days, cleaning everything took the longest time, I think and I did extra stuff besides the starter - injectors, spark plugs, some vacuum hoses, upper radiator hose, etc.

Check the starter replacement threads. Have all parts and tools on hand. Stay organized - I had trays with partitions for bolts and nuts and I was also taking pictures and taking notes of the steps I did to make re-assemble easier.
Old 10-22-18, 09:46 PM
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Like I said before, having lights, heat, radio, heated seats, etc OFF helps with first start in the morning. Sometimes it took me like 20 key turns/tries to start it. When it got really bad, I had to buckle up to start the car - no chime, absolutely no load on battery helps!
Old 10-22-18, 11:33 PM
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I will point out that while this is a clear bad starter, I had a bad tps make a similar clicking sound to a bad starter in my celsior
Old 10-22-18, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by magnificen
Um ok...im not what you are saying
Ive read 1200-1500 hundred bucks.Never priced it personally.Maybe others will chime in what they paid.
Old 10-23-18, 12:40 AM
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Test and check the simple stuff first:
Battery cables clean with good contact.
Check battery voltage
Check alternator function-charging.

If all those are good, the starter is a common wear part with no specific time when they go. So don't have problems, some do. An indy doing this job will be $700 range or more. The dealer will start at ~$1K. Lots of threads here if you want to DIY just it is a pretty involved task to undertake.
Old 10-23-18, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by valex
Like I said before, having lights, heat, radio, heated seats, etc OFF helps with first start in the morning. Sometimes it took me like 20 key turns/tries to start it. When it got really bad, I had to buckle up to start the car - no chime, absolutely no load on battery helps!
Mine was very incremental when it happened. It went from one click to three the second day to 20 after the first week. I stopped using it after I got to 63 clicks. A few tips to those who haven't done theirs yet. Just leave the whole fuel rails on(along with the throttle intake) when you pull the upper intake off. That way you won't break off any fuel injector parts. I was also able to remove both lower EGR bolts without pulling the cat. Took a small open/closed end wrench to do this. Doing just those two things will save you a lot of time(and aggravation). I too took around 30 pictures as I took things apart and wrote up a cheat sheet to put it back together. After the fourth time I did it, it was a 20 minute job to have both intakes out.
Old 10-23-18, 07:42 AM
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Great thanks for all the help guys. This is too big of a job for me but at least I know what to expect.
Old 10-23-18, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RA40
Test and check the simple stuff first:
Battery cables clean with good contact.
Check battery voltage
Check alternator function-charging.

If all those are good, the starter is a common wear part with no specific time when they go. So don't have problems, some do. An indy doing this job will be $700 range or more. The dealer will start at ~$1K. Lots of threads here if you want to DIY just it is a pretty involved task to undertake.
I went a head and tightened the battery connections still to no avail. Friday I plan to take it to a mechanic to get it changed out. I did check the battery and was not getting s full charge out of it so I assumed its the starter. Plus I would hear a whine while driving. I'm still not too sure about whether its the alternator or starter.
Old 10-23-18, 08:13 AM
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Be sure to let us know what the results are.
Old 10-23-18, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by spuds
Be sure to let us know what the results are.
Will do. As a matter of fact I just went over some old service records and may have found why the alternator may be going bad. I replaced it about 3 years ago but the mechanic made a note saying my power steering pump is leaking on the alternator. So that may be the cause.


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