I'm trying to get the manifold off.

I've read through some of the old posts but I'm not able to find what I'm looking for.

I've followed the instructions, step-by-step per the FSM; the manifold is loose but I can't the back of the manifold to lift off far enough to clear the rear studs.

There should be enough clearance even with the heater hoses and water valve that's attached to the firewall but it feels like there's something back there that still needs to come off or be disconnected.

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

 

 

 

Thanks for the help. But I don't think that bolt needs to come off because the Rear Fuel Pipe and the fuel rails come off with the manifold.



I think I might have missed this one, though. It holds the wire loom to the rear bypass. Perhaps, once removed the wire bundle can be pushed towards the firewall to make clearance. I don't think this is it, though.

 

You def have to remove the bolt in back and like valex said it's a pain to get to back there. I would remove the upper and lower in 1 piece. It's a bit heavy so it would be nice to have a helper. I could do it in 45 minutes now since I had to pull it off twice when I replaced my starter a couple of years ago but the first time it took me a while. The most time consuming part is removing all the wires and hoses.

 

Just so I have this clear. Remove that bolt that secures the rear fuel pipe to the back of the manifold, but leave both ends of the rear fuel pipe attached to the fuel rail?

 

I see someone has a nice mouse fire hazard under the manifold. Engineers should consider rodent problems, just my opinion.

 

At least it's outside the car. Get one inside and you pretty much have to use a flame thrower get rid of the stank.

 

When I took my intakes off the valley was full of peanuts from one end to the other. Dang, do-gooder neighbors. They were also all the way back into the muffler/pipe housings.

 

I forgot to close to book on this one.

The bolt holding the fuel line to the rear of the manifold does not need to be removed because it comes off with the fuel rails. There's nothing snaking round the fuel line.



The issue was with the ACIS vacuum tank attached to the front, underside of the manifold. The front of the manifold to be tilted up for the tank to clear the front coolant cross over after the manifold clears the studs - there's not enough room to do this with the front cross over in place. The rear of the manifold hits the firewall before the tank clears the front. It's probably poor technique as well.

 

You are missing a Shop Manual.

 

FSM = Factory Shop Manual.

The steps are out of sequence.