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Power steering reservoir oring only lasted 4 years? Alternator dying. Replaced.
I got my 95 LS 4 years ago.
I did a ton of DIY maintenance then including TB/WP, starter replacement, new trans mount, new PS reservoir o ring, and much more.
so it has been 4 years /20k miles and I haven't had to add any ATF to the reservoir but yesterday when I started the car it sounded different like a low pitch humming, Coming from the PS pump/alternator area.
I checked the PS fluid and it was just barely registering on the dipstick. Bottom of the reservoir is dirty but it has always looked like that.
I added fluid and the sound changed a tiny but as the PS pump quieted down but I still have the low pitch humming.
I put a multimeter on the battery with the car running and the highest I can get with everything off is 13.6 at 2000rpm.
the lowest is 12.2 every acc on at idle.
From Idle to 2000rpm, voltage increases by 0.4 on the meter.
At idle the headlights dim slightly when the window switches are touched.
so I'm thinking my alternator is finally giving out
should I go with a denso reman? Do I get 80 or 100 amp?
where do you recommend I get it from?
I will install myself this weekend when the temp gets a little warmer.
Also I will change the PS reservoir oring as that is probably the culprit , what if I add some red rtv by the oring as well?
thanks for the help and I welcome any other testing you might recommend
also on a side note when did photobucket links start working again?? Wonderful
The loss of PS fluid is more than likely attributed to the Air Control Valve that's mounted on the bottom of the PS pump. This is EXTREMELY common but if it has taken 4 years for the fluid to deplete you are actually doing very well. It's not a question of "IF" with this valve, as they all leak somewhat, it's a question of how much. Top the reservoir off and it should be fine but def keep an eye on it.
The voltage numbers arent necessarily a cause for concern either. How old is the battery...?
The valve (w/ the 2 nipples & 2 rubber vacuum hoses attached to it) could very well be on its way out but you should check the exhaust first. Here's how to do a visual test: With the car running, have someone turn the power steering left & right. If you see white smoke coming out of the exhaust then it's an indication the valve is leaking as some of the ps fluid got through the valve & routed into the plenum/upper intake manifold & into the combustion chamber then burn off. The amount of white smoke you see will depends on how leaky the valve is. Btw, before you run this test, make sure the car is warmed up so you won't be mistaken the ps fluid's white smoke from the water condensation's white smoke in your gasoline being burned off at cold start. Now if there's white smoke, you have the option to either replace the valve w/ a new one (make sure it's OEM) or delete the valve as you don't really need it (surf the net/forum for the delete instruction). On the other hand, if there's no white smoke then you can proceed to change the o-ring or your ps could also be on its way out. In the event if the ps is leaking, you'll need to replace it asap otherwise it will leak into your alternator then eventually kill it & leave you strand on the road. Good luck.
It could be Alternator OR it could also be Battery.
What is your battery voltage when engine off, nothing running (or disconnected from car)? Should be a little under 13V when fully charged and a few minutes after car has been running enough to recharge battery from starting. If its 12V its either in need of a charge, or its dead.
Mine pulls 13.8V at idle, 14.4 at around 2000 RPM. My Battery and Alt are in good condition.
Easy way to tell if your standard lead acid battery is OK.
Disconnect from car and charge it slowly for about a day (18-24 hours)
Leave it for 2 hours (no load). This is just to let the excess charging voltage bleed away.
Test voltage.
- if its <=12V is a dead battery (or on its very last legs)
- If its 12.7V to 12.8V its a good battery (new condition)
- If ts over 12.8V, you have an exceptional battery (or its not been 2 hours since it was charged)
- somewhere in between 12V and 12.8V will give you its percentage of capacity (ie 12.4V would be 1/2 capacity).
This is called an open cell battery test.
I did this on my battery just after I got my Celsior (LS400) and got 12.9V. Needless to say I was very happy with that.
As to how long the O-ring on the base of the PS reservoir should last? No idea. but I would have expected far longer than 4 years. Not too many people here have even mentioned having to replace it.
The ACV (Air Control Valve) is a different story. Them things routinely die after about 10 years, sometimes less. They often take the alternator with them, as I'm sure you already know.
Anyway, hope this info is of some use to you (or somebody).
Are you talking about the o-ring on the p/s reservoir cap? Mine is definitely leaking. I clean off the burnt fluid on my p/s resevoir and a week or two later its caked again, starting from the cap down.
Anyone have a part number for the p/s cap oring, or a replacement cap in general?
Are you talking about the o-ring on the p/s reservoir cap? Mine is definitely leaking. I clean off the burnt fluid on my p/s resevoir and a week or two later its caked again, starting from the cap down.
Anyone have a part number for the p/s cap oring, or a replacement cap in general?
Ls400 alternator shield
Got the old one out in about 45 mins
at the bottom is my Ls400 monster power alternator shield
the tabs are to attach under the top mounting bracket
Those cooling fins in the alternator housing are there for a reason. Your alt will run hotter which will potentially shorten the life of the bearing and voltage regulator.
The real issue is circled in red...
I cut the cover more than this pic, ultimately I cut right through the monster lettering so it just over hung the alternator
I also rounded the top right corner of the cover
I went with a denso reman from a 3rd party supplier on Amazon, they didn't even have a core charge
I love the abbreviations. So I would like to know what Mb is on a Multimeter ? AKA DMM. There is Volts, Amps, Ohm's sometimes hfe and other nice things like that, but I don't remember seeing Mb ?
Oh here is where I saw it.
(Idle to 2000rpm Mb increases by 0.4 on the meter.
At idle the headlights dim slightly when the window switches are touched)
I love the abbreviations. So I would like to know what Mb is on a Multimeter ? AKA DMM. There is Volts, Amps, Ohm's sometimes hfe and other nice things like that, but I don't remember seeing Mb ?
Oh here is where I saw it.
(Idle to 2000rpm Mb increases by 0.4 on the meter.
At idle the headlights dim slightly when the window switches are touched)
I'm glad I could humor you,
I'll change the wording.
Brybo86- When the ps pump on my 97 LS400 leaked & eventually took out the alternator, I also custom-made a shield out of hi-temp nylon (non-conductive so it's safer) but I've decided at the very last minute not to use it as I was concern about the heat not being able to dissipate from the alternator. Since you already have it installed, just keep an eye on it.
11-19-18, 08:11 AM
Power steering reservoir oring only lasted 4 years? Alternator dying. Replaced.
