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I found the leak from the PS, Its the silicone hose that runs from the resivior to the pump. (If anyone has a part number for that itd be greatly appriciated.
As for the gaskets, they should be all good, had them replaced a year ago shortly after I replaced the alternator.
From what it looks like, its the alternator... again. Now forgive me if I sound dumb, but is there anyway that the alternator can "dry off" and burn off that PS fluid that dripped onto it?
So it was the P/S oil which partially killed the alternator.
Are your alternator's slip rings look like photos which are posted by oldskewel here?
If so, it is not easy to fix it.
Many alternators that fluctuate the generating voltage have damaged or worn slip rings like the link above and it is not easy to fix those. As far as I know, oldskewel is the only guy who succeeded to fix it.
If there remain copper conductors well enough, it may be possible to use them after polishing and cleaning the surface. But 2 brushes are needed to replace because the absorbed oil makes them softer and softened brushes cause too much frictions and melt slip rings. Other alternator parts can be mostly usable after wiping off the P/S oil.
Havent taken it out yet, will look at the rings when I get the time.
Also, It charges fine from 1.5k to 6k its only at idle does it not charge and drains when its off.
Possibility that the alternator isnt complete trash?
Mine did that at the end. Cleaned it using brake cleaner and lasted another year but recently did exactly that stopped charging at anything below 1800rpm then stopped altogether. Fix the leak then replace alt.
Mine did that at the end. Cleaned it using brake cleaner and lasted another year but recently did exactly that stopped charging at anything below 1800rpm then stopped altogether. Fix the leak then replace alt.
That's one of typical symptoms of worn slip rings and the alternator is dying. I have seen many Celsior owners who have neglected to fix the minor P/S oil leak and finally their cars stopped running. It is always important to find the root cause of the problem. Many battery problems are caused by the failing alternator but the root cause of it is not always the same. One of them is often caused by the slowly leaking of P/S oil.
Some other battery charging problems I have experienced at local shops are caused by the jump start. Due to the surge voltage caused by the L di/dt when a jump start is done, rectifying diodes in the alternator are badly stressed and often damaged. This causes a poor rectifying capability or some current leakage. As a result, the battery drains more than charged. It ends up the car to stall. I think I'd better to add that the surge voltage sometimes causes problems on computer controlled units too.
Something I noticed when looking at the design ...
There is a little opening where the brushes meet the slip rings. It seems like it was designed to let the powder residue eventually escape. I.e., when the brushes wear (and slip rings too, to a much lesser degree), the powder has to get out and go somewhere, and that little gap is where it goes. Great design, common on alternators I've seen.
Problem is that if the brush assembly ever gets wet enough with oil, the powder will clog up and maybe bake itself in place, blocking the exit, never drying out, never escaping. And the powder that remains, mixed with oil, becomes an abrasive slurry that can accelerate wear on the slip rings.
So in your case, I would:
1. fix the leak.
2. (to install when you're all done) make a shield to prevent future leaks from falling on the rear of the alternator
3. remove the alternator, remove the brush assembly, clean it out. Inspect slip rings, clean off the surface with scotchbrite (the scratchy green side of a typical abrasive sponge). If the brushes are long enough, lightly sand their surface to make that fresh too.
4. Put it back together and see if you have better low RPM voltage.
Update:
PS leak is fixed, alternator is out.
The alternator is soaked and will be replaced tomorrow, but have a slight problemo.
When I touch the harness to the battery it sparks, everything is off. Its the smaller underside of the harness.Is this normal?
Part of Harness is pictured above.
Update:
PS leak is fixed, alternator is out.
The alternator is soaked and will be replaced tomorrow, but have a slight problemo.
When I touch the harness to the battery it sparks, everything is off. Its the smaller underside of the harness.Is this normal?
Part of Harness is pictured above.
Depends on how much of a spark you're talking about. When you put that positive cable back on the positive post, you close the circuit and there is typically a small spark. Not enough to worry most people. You get a similar but bigger spark when making the final connection when connecting two cars with jumper cables prior to jump starting.
But what might be a problem ... the cable that goes to the alternator, that screws onto the B+ stud on the alternator with the 12mm nut, covered by a rubber shield ... is at the other end of that cable you're attaching to the battery. So if, with the alternator removed, that wire is hanging free down there and happens to be contacting anything that is grounded, when you connect at the battery there, you're completing a short circuit powered by the battery, so get your welding helmet on! Or make sure the other end is not grounded, if you don't actually want to weld anything.
02-01-20, 02:40 AM
