LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

How to check fuel trims on OBD1 cars?

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Old 12-31-18, 07:45 AM
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AlaskanLS
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Default How to check fuel trims on OBD1 cars?

My 91 Lexus LS400 is driving me nuts. It's drinking fuel instead of burning it. Some times I wonder if it has a fuel leak. I have done all the maintenance that anyone can think of but no change in fuel consumption. I always idle it for atleat 15 minutes twice a week or whenever I am about to drive it. It's subzero temperature here in Alaska and I don't really like sitting in a cold car before driving it.
I have changed all the ignition related parts. Even recapped the ECU. Replaced the O2 sensor with genuine Denso not Lexus Denso, just Denso. Even replaced the coolant temperature sensor but no difference. I recently tried re-manufactured CARDON AFM and fuel consumption went way high with that AFM, so I returned it.
Engine of the car is running strong and not burning oil. Now the only option left to find the culprit is to check the fuel trims. I took it to Lexus dealer and to my amazement they said they don't have any OBD1 scanner.
Any suggestions?
My car's mpg is 7 to 10 miles per gallon. I did replace the fuel filter and I am suspecting maybe the fuel light are not tight but I don't see any fuel drips.
Old 12-31-18, 08:31 AM
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YODAONE
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Originally Posted by AlaskanLS
My 91 Lexus LS400 is driving me nuts. It's drinking fuel instead of burning it. Some times I wonder if it has a fuel leak. I have done all the maintenance that anyone can think of but no change in fuel consumption. I always idle it for atleat 15 minutes twice a week or whenever I am about to drive it. It's subzero temperature here in Alaska and I don't really like sitting in a cold car before driving it.
I have changed all the ignition related parts. Even recapped the ECU. Replaced the O2 sensor with genuine Denso not Lexus Denso, just Denso. Even replaced the coolant temperature sensor but no difference. I recently tried re-manufactured CARDON AFM and fuel consumption went way high with that AFM, so I returned it.
Engine of the car is running strong and not burning oil. Now the only option left to find the culprit is to check the fuel trims. I took it to Lexus dealer and to my amazement they said they don't have any OBD1 scanner.
Any suggestions?
My car's mpg is 7 to 10 miles per gallon. I did replace the fuel filter and I am suspecting maybe the fuel light are not tight but I don't see any fuel drips.
Engine vacuum hoses original?

PCV valve and right-left bank hoses?

Spark plugs?

Replaced my Iridium spark plugs with new NGK Iridium..

Much improved could start idle and overall driveability/performance.

See:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/904773-ngk-ruthenium-hx-spark-plugs.html

What viscosity and type (synthetic?) oil do you use?

Using Mobil 1 Synthetic OW-30...excellent for cold start. (Do not use 0W-20)

See::

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/



If original, then replace your thermostat...or if aftermarket then replace it anyway.

See:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/871532-replace-your-original-thermostat.html

Automakers do a better job of preventing overheating than underheating engines...

Perhaps in extreme subzero weather it makes sense to cover or partially cover radiator grille.




Last edited by YODAONE; 12-31-18 at 08:34 AM.
Old 12-31-18, 08:44 AM
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AlaskanLS
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Originally Posted by YODAONE
Engine vacuum hoses original?

PCV valve and right-left bank hoses?

Spark plugs?

Replaced my Iridium spark plugs with new NGK Iridium..

Much improved could start idle and overall driveability/performance.

See:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ark-plugs.html

What viscosity and type (synthetic?) oil do you use?

Using Mobil 1 Synthetic OW-30...excellent for cold start. (Do not use 0W-20)

See::

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/



If original, then replace your thermostat...or if aftermarket then replace it anyway.

See:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...hermostat.html

Automakers do a better job of preventing overheating than underheating engines...

Perhaps in extreme subzero weather it makes sense to cover or partially cover radiator grille.
These are the spark plugs that I am using:

Denso (5304) IK20 Iridium

About PCV Valve I believe there is one PCV Valve on the left bank that I replaced it with genuine OEM PCV Valve. I didn't know if there is another on the right side.

Type of oil I use is Mobil 1 5W 30 fully synthetic .
I replaced the thermostat with the timing belt 4 months ago. I used OEM Lexus thermostat.

I even cleaned the EGR and replaced the vacuum modulator with OEM.
Old 12-31-18, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by AlaskanLS
These are the spark plugs that I am using:

Denso (5304) IK20 Iridium

About PCV Valve I believe there is one PCV Valve on the left bank that I replaced it with genuine OEM PCV Valve. I didn't know if there is another on the right side.

Type of oil I use is Mobil 1 5W 30 fully synthetic .
I replaced the thermostat with the timing belt 4 months ago. I used OEM Lexus thermostat.

I even cleaned the EGR and replaced the vacuum modulator with OEM.
Just replaced my relatively new Iridiums with NGK Ruthenium plugs...noticeable difference.

Use 0W-30 oil for easier cold start and reduced engine wear.

The PCV system uses two hoses; one each on right and left bank valve covers. Replace them along with clamps if original. PCV valve grommet too



Your ECU capacitors have been replaced??
Typical problem.area that can be repaired with new capacitors. This forum offers advice.
Old 12-31-18, 10:53 AM
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I have recapped ECU. I have mentioned that in my first post. I have done it myself though and car is running fine, hopefully I didn't do it wrong that is causing massive fuel consumption, but it was getting the same mpg even before recapping the ECU.
I have read the FSM and looked at the troubleshooting page for poor fuel consumption and tried most of the solution mentioned by FSM but no luck. There are 4 more things according to FSM to look into but those are pain in the *** to reach. One of which is cold start injector. The other three things are TPS, neutral start switch and injectors.
Old 12-31-18, 02:22 PM
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Curious what the compression ratio is.
Old 12-31-18, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RA40
Curious what the compression ratio is.
I don’t think compression would be bad because it isn’t burning oil or misfiring.
Old 12-31-18, 05:48 PM
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Check the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator for the presence of fuel. If the internal diaphragm has ruptured; it could be aspirating fuel right into the plenum.
If that doesn't turn up anything abnormal, check the oxygen sensor feedback with a digital meter. You should have a rapid swing from near zero to one volt DC as the sensor goes from rich to lean. Slow response time can negatively impact the fuel mileage, and a consistently high reading would confirm a rich mixture. Use the OX1 and OX2 terminals in the diagnosis port to check this value.
Have you checked for codes?
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Old 01-01-19, 12:58 AM
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Can you please enlighten me some more on how to test O2 sensors in diagnosis port? I do have multimeter. What are those ports labeled on diagnosis terminals?
Old 01-01-19, 05:01 AM
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Set DMM to VDC. Ground the black probe and test voltage at ox1 and then ox2 terminal in diagnostic plug, with engine idling. Voltage should fluctuate from 0.1 to about 0.9v at a decent pace. Frequency of switching should increase with engine RPM. Both banks' sensors should operate at the same speed. A lazy response time or fixed voltage indicates need for replacement.
Code 25 stored in memory can indicate either a failed or lazy sensor.

The O2 sensor feedback can also be used to diagnose vacuum leaks, with an external fuel source.
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Old 01-01-19, 10:54 AM
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When you're idling it for 15 minutes to warm up each time before you drive it, you are getting ZERO MPG. Burning gas, getting zero miles, so miles/gallons = 0.

That will be averaged in with whatever MPG you get while driving. So depending on how long your drives are, the long idling time will negatively impact the total MPG you're getting.

BTW, good to hear Alaska has a Lexus dealer.
Old 01-01-19, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DrC10
Check the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator for the presence of fuel. If the internal diaphragm has ruptured; it could be aspirating fuel right into the plenum.
If that doesn't turn up anything abnormal, check the oxygen sensor feedback with a digital meter. You should have a rapid swing from near zero to one volt DC as the sensor goes from rich to lean. Slow response time can negatively impact the fuel mileage, and a consistently high reading would confirm a rich mixture. Use the OX1 and OX2 terminals in the diagnosis port to check this value.
Have you checked for codes?
DRC10 You are the man, I guess I found the problem. As you mentioned in your post about fuel pressure regulator that has internal diaphragm. I went ahead and checked the vacuum line that is attached to diaphragm, I followed that vacuum line and other end is attached to VSV solenoid . I believe that diaphragm is good but the vacuum solenoid that provides vacuum to the diaphragm is dead.
91 LS400 has two vacuum switching solenoids. One is attached to the EGR system and the other is attached to fuel regulator that has diaphragm.
The part number written on the VSV for fuel system isn't readable. Any one knows the part number?
Regards!
Thanks a lot again DrC10!
Old 01-01-19, 02:49 PM
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AlaskanLS
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Originally Posted by oldskewel
When you're idling it for 15 minutes to warm up each time before you drive it, you are getting ZERO MPG. Burning gas, getting zero miles, so miles/gallons = 0.

That will be averaged in with whatever MPG you get while driving. So depending on how long your drives are, the long idling time will negatively impact the total MPG you're getting.

BTW, good to hear Alaska has a Lexus dealer.
Yeah I understand that point that's why I mentioned it, but the MPG is still horrible. I let my Land Cruiser idle for longer than LS but and it has bigger engine than LS but it is still get better MPG than LS.
Old 01-01-19, 05:00 PM
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I found the part number. Please check the location circled in red in top diagram, this VSV is completely dead and this is the one that provides vacuum to fuel pressure regulator. I hope this will fix my car's MPG. Here is the part number 90910-12076
Old 01-03-19, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DrC10
Set DMM to VDC. Ground the black probe and test voltage at ox1 and then ox2 terminal in diagnostic plug, with engine idling. Voltage should fluctuate from 0.1 to about 0.9v at a decent pace. Frequency of switching should increase with engine RPM. Both banks' sensors should operate at the same speed. A lazy response time or fixed voltage indicates need for replacement.
Code 25 stored in memory can indicate either a failed or lazy sensor.

The O2 sensor feedback can also be used to diagnose vacuum leaks, with an external fuel source.
I need your help buddy. Is OX1 for left or right bank O2 sensor?


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