Tales of P1349 and P1346
#1
Tales of P1349 and P1346
Had a P1349 pop up. Searched and found it was caused by a OCV on bank one (driver side). This of course triggered misfires all down bank one (cylinders 1,3,5,7). I pulled the valve and put 12v on the prongs and it opened. So I cleaned it, put it back in and drove away. The problem remained. So I did a ton of stuff trying to find what's going on because the valve worked. I finally paid the money and replaced it voila, problem solved. Bottom line, even if the OCV seems to work when power is applied, just swap it out.
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LS400FAN (02-13-19)
The following users liked this post:
LS400FAN (02-13-19)
#3
Had a P1349 pop up. Searched and found it was caused by a OCV on bank one (driver side). This of course triggered misfires all down bank one (cylinders 1,3,5,7). I pulled the valve and put 12v on the prongs and it opened. So I cleaned it, put it back in and drove away. The problem remained. So I did a ton of stuff trying to find what's going on because the valve worked. I finally paid the money and replaced it voila, problem solved. Bottom line, even if the OCV seems to work when power is applied, just swap it out.
#4
Definitely check the connection first. I was very much the same way. The valve failing wasn't very noticeable, just every now and then the idle would be a bit rough. And when I say rough, I mean a very minor dip. It would still maintain idle just fine, but with a bit more vibration and at a lower RPM. Cleaned mine, checked it, seemed to work just fine but without an oscilloscope, we can't see what the computer is seeing. I caused myself undue stress trying to NOT replace it. At the end of the day, if all the connections are good and the computer still says it's bad, just replace it and go back to enjoying your LS400.
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LS400FAN (02-14-19)
#5
Just replace both of them at the same time and be done with it.
I'd also recommend that on O2 sensors. Had a problem with my Tundra. Just went ahead and replaced all 4 sensors and truck drives like new. Pretty sure sensors are wear items and performance may deteriorate over time before they get bad enough to trigger a problem. Not an expert, just relaying my experience. Of course, very easy to change on the Tundra as all the connections are underneath and easy to reach.
I'd also recommend that on O2 sensors. Had a problem with my Tundra. Just went ahead and replaced all 4 sensors and truck drives like new. Pretty sure sensors are wear items and performance may deteriorate over time before they get bad enough to trigger a problem. Not an expert, just relaying my experience. Of course, very easy to change on the Tundra as all the connections are underneath and easy to reach.
The following users liked this post:
LS400FAN (02-14-19)
#6
Definitely check the connection first. I was very much the same way. The valve failing wasn't very noticeable, just every now and then the idle would be a bit rough. And when I say rough, I mean a very minor dip. It would still maintain idle just fine, but with a bit more vibration and at a lower RPM. Cleaned mine, checked it, seemed to work just fine but without an oscilloscope, we can't see what the computer is seeing. I caused myself undue stress trying to NOT replace it. At the end of the day, if all the connections are good and the computer still says it's bad, just replace it and go back to enjoying your LS400.
#7
Just replace both of them at the same time and be done with it.
I'd also recommend that on O2 sensors. Had a problem with my Tundra. Just went ahead and replaced all 4 sensors and truck drives like new. Pretty sure sensors are wear items and performance may deteriorate over time before they get bad enough to trigger a problem. Not an expert, just relaying my experience. Of course, very easy to change on the Tundra as all the connections are underneath and easy to reach.
I'd also recommend that on O2 sensors. Had a problem with my Tundra. Just went ahead and replaced all 4 sensors and truck drives like new. Pretty sure sensors are wear items and performance may deteriorate over time before they get bad enough to trigger a problem. Not an expert, just relaying my experience. Of course, very easy to change on the Tundra as all the connections are underneath and easy to reach.
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#8
Cheers!
#10
Update: Referring to your post, I spoke too soon. First of all, what I meant about cleaning and tightening the contact was simply sticking a safety pin inside the connector female contacts and scraping them side to side, and then squeezing the metal contacts together to get a more snug fit when I plugged it back up. I thought that fixed my issue, but as I've just found out 2 days ago, the problem returned and I will now follow the sound advice given on this thread replace the vvti ocv's. Hopefully, that will put this issue to rest, I will keep the bd updated on my progress. Sheesh....I wish I had done this a couple of weeks ago like I was advised to do so, I'm learning.
#11
Update: Referring to your post, I spoke too soon. First of all, what I meant about cleaning and tightening the contact was simply sticking a safety pin inside the connector female contacts and scraping them side to side, and then squeezing the metal contacts together to get a more snug fit when I plugged it back up. I thought that fixed my issue, but as I've just found out 2 days ago, the problem returned and I will now follow the sound advice given on this thread replace the vvti ocv's. Hopefully, that will put this issue to rest, I will keep the bd updated on my progress. Sheesh....I wish I had done this a couple of weeks ago like I was advised to do so, I'm learning.
Replacing those parts also gets you new / clean contacts.
I've nothing against replacing parts.
I would like to be able to clean the old connector as well.
New wine, old jars.
Has anyone found an efficient way to clean contacts please?
I have little faith in "Contact Cleaner" sprays
There's nothing in them to clean oxide off metal.
Has anyone tried soldering flux for instance.
The flux needs cleaning off afterwards of course.
.
#12
Thank you LS400 Fan.
Replacing those parts also gets you new / clean contacts.
I've nothing against replacing parts.
I would like to be able to clean the old connector as well.
New wine, old jars.
Has anyone found an efficient way to clean contacts please?
I have little faith in "Contact Cleaner" sprays
There's nothing in them to clean oxide off metal.
Has anyone tried soldering flux for instance.
The flux needs cleaning off afterwards of course.
.
Replacing those parts also gets you new / clean contacts.
I've nothing against replacing parts.
I would like to be able to clean the old connector as well.
New wine, old jars.
Has anyone found an efficient way to clean contacts please?
I have little faith in "Contact Cleaner" sprays
There's nothing in them to clean oxide off metal.
Has anyone tried soldering flux for instance.
The flux needs cleaning off afterwards of course.
.
#13
In all honesty Ekim..., based on what I've noticed it may not be necessary to give too much concern to these electrical connectors unless the wiring and/or plastic become compromised which exposes them to corrosive moisture, for the most part they do a pretty good job of sealing out dirt and other elements. I would definitely tape any "exposed" wiring or "broken" connectors because that most certainly will lead to problems if left unchecked. The LS engine throws off a lot of heat and over time can have a negative effect on wiring insulation and brittle connectors. When I bought my '98 LS 14 yrs ago, I practically taped most of the wiring harness due to frayed insulation, the old adage of an "ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure" is so true. Good luck.
Briefly
Metals can be divided into 2 sorts.
Noble metals, and the rest.
Noble metals stay shiny.
The rest go dull.
Tarnish / corrode,
No matter how dry you keep them.
Tarnish builds up between contacts
forcing them apart / increasing resistance.
Top rate hifi equipment uses gold plated stuff.
Even a little tarnish upsets sound quality.
Gold stays shiny.
It's the oxygen in the air that does it.
Heat speeds up tarnishing.
Metal tarnishes twice as fast for every 10C rise.
#14
ALL ::: about 4 years ago my 1349 came on, drivers side, I took it out cleaned with carb cleaner AND got my pinchers and a small piece of cloth soaked in c/cleaner and swabbed out the CHAMBER it fits in, until it came out clean... put it together and no more 1349.. on a 99LS...
you can look it up, it is on here with photos.
you can look it up, it is on here with photos.
#15
ALL ::: about 4 years ago my 1349 came on, drivers side, I took it out cleaned with carb cleaner AND got my pinchers and a small piece of cloth soaked in c/cleaner and swabbed out the CHAMBER it fits in, until it came out clean... put it together and no more 1349.. on a 99LS...
you can look it up, it is on here with photos.
you can look it up, it is on here with photos.
That''s amazing, just carb cleaner, and 4 years later it's still working
.