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So, I went to diagnose the check engine light today. It turns out that the torque converter solenoid is defective. I got quoted something to the tune of $1100 (parts and labor) to repair it...
How do they know that? How much did you pay for the car, sucks when repairs cost more then the car did.
How do they know that? How much did you pay for the car, sucks when repairs cost more then the car did.
They gave me the error code when they diagnosed the check engine light, and it returned ‘P0770’ which is the solenoid for the torque converter. It’s faulty and it explains why I get stuck in high revs at high speeds. Diagnosing, ordering, labor, all of that is included in the price. If I pay cash, they’ll knock off the taxes so it’ll be around a grand when all’s said and done.
As for the high RPM, it turns out that I’m actually getting 660 RPM! The dash is defective and reading a higher RPM than normal, but I’ll fix that at another time.
I paid $3300 for this particular LS400, but it’s the lowest mileage example I’ve ever seen. I knew right off the bat that I’ll have to invest into it, but I wouldn’t trade it for the world. (Maybe I might )
Diagnosing, ordering, labor, all of that is included in the price. If I pay cash, they’ll knock off the taxes so it’ll be around a grand when all’s said and done.
I paid $3300 for this particular LS400, but it’s the lowest mileage example I’ve ever seen. I knew right off the bat that I’ll have to invest into it, but I wouldn’t trade it for the world. (Maybe I might )
Don't trade it for the world, you'd get alot more of other peoples problems that way. TOO much problems in this world.
Paying a grand for someone to do that work, if you can't do it yourself, isn't bad if the car is worth it and you're gonna keep it for a while.
Even though you're paying cash you really need to get some kind of receipt just incase something goes wrong and they have to fix it over again. They can say: "No receipt, no work done".
The guys I always go to are very honest and reputable, so they gave me a receipt and everything (including a warranty on the repair! How nice of them).
Good news: No more high RPMS at highway speed!
Okay news: My car is actually running at 660 RPMs, but something is wrong with the gauge cluster itself. I can’t be arsed to fix it right now especially since I just resumed college, but it’s not harming anything currently.
Sorta bad news: Engine oil was black. Like, it was basically sludge. Got that fixed right away, car is much more lithe and brisk.
Bad news: Transmission still bucks when I put it in R or D.
Other bad stuff: Car sounds like a goddamn NJTransit bus when I accelerate. A whole lot of “woooooOOOOOOOOOO” when I punch the throttle. A bit like a shop vacuum spooling up. I’m trying to figure out why that is, but so far I don’t really have any leads...
The car shakes a good deal when I start it up and I noticed that there is a little vibration at idle. My hunch is that the engine mounts need to be replaced. Not a costly job at all
Oh, and braking is kinda miserable. One of the brake rotors is warped, so when I brake the whole car shudders rhythmically. Very annoying, since I really did expect this car to be legendarily smooth. But there are always some factors impeding that goal. Still! I continue onwards.
Do I regret buying a 23 year old car without a PPI or service records? Yes. Do I regret buying a 1996 Lexus LS400 with 100,000 miles on the clock? Hell no.
The guys I always go to are very honest and reputable, so they gave me a receipt and everything (including a warranty on the repair! How nice of them).
Good news: No more high RPMS at highway speed!
Okay news: My car is actually running at 660 RPMs, but something is wrong with the gauge cluster itself. I can’t be arsed to fix it right now especially since I just resumed college, but it’s not harming anything currently.
Sorta bad news: Engine oil was black. Like, it was basically sludge. Got that fixed right away, car is much more lithe and brisk.
Bad news: Transmission still bucks when I put it in R or D.
Other bad stuff: Car sounds like a goddamn NJTransit bus when I accelerate. A whole lot of “woooooOOOOOOOOOO” when I punch the throttle. A bit like a shop vacuum spooling up. I’m trying to figure out why that is, but so far I don’t really have any leads...
The car shakes a good deal when I start it up and I noticed that there is a little vibration at idle. My hunch is that the engine mounts need to be replaced. Not a costly job at all
Oh, and braking is kinda miserable. One of the brake rotors is warped, so when I brake the whole car shudders rhythmically. Very annoying, since I really did expect this car to be legendarily smooth. But there are always some factors impeding that goal. Still! I continue onwards.
Do I regret buying a 23 year old car without a PPI or service records? Yes. Do I regret buying a 1996 Lexus LS400 with 100,000 miles on the clock? Hell no.
The vacuum sound you hear is either low tranny fluid or bad valve body. On mine it turned out to be the valve body.
The vacuum sound you hear is either low tranny fluid or bad valve body. On mine it turned out to be the valve body.
I haven't really been fixing problems on the car due to school now, but I have been giving it some thought.
When idling, it is a little rough. Itty-bitty vibrations you can feel. When starting up the car, it sounds like a vacuum but letting it sit for 15-20 seconds will make that vacuum sound disappear indefinitely, until the car is started up after a few hours.
I also noticed when I started it up that there was a lot of air rushing through the panel gaps between the hood and front fender. I don't know what it could be. It has to be an engine issue...
I've been debating taking it in for a tune-up to mitigate some of the ****ty idling. But, there's no carburetor so I don't think there'd be much of a point.
I haven't really been fixing problems on the car due to school now, but I have been giving it some thought.
When idling, it is a little rough. Itty-bitty vibrations you can feel. When starting up the car, it sounds like a vacuum but letting it sit for 15-20 seconds will make that vacuum sound disappear indefinitely, until the car is started up after a few hours.
I also noticed when I started it up that there was a lot of air rushing through the panel gaps between the hood and front fender. I don't know what it could be. It has to be an engine issue...
I've been debating taking it in for a tune-up to mitigate some of the ****ty idling. But, there's no carburetor so I don't think there'd be much of a point.
I was driving home from college and using the radio when suddenly the radio began to die out on me.
then, the ABS light and the battery light came on. Rookie mistake #1: I kept driving.
Every time I pressed the brakes, all the needles on the dash would bounce down and back up when I let off it. Rookie mistake #2: I drove onto the NJ turnpike.
My LS began to struggle with the throttle, going on-off, on-off, on-off. Rookie mistake #3: I didn’t pull over.
I barely made it off the exit ramp and onto a local street when the car died on me, stuck in neutral. I got a tow ride back to my local mechanic, and me personally, I’m alive and well.
I definitely know it’s the alternator. But why’d it fail so suddenly? Could it be the power steering pump leak? I noticed this morning that there was a little whistle that rose and fell with the RPMs. I would like a solid confirmation from any expert on here.
****** me, I should’ve done my due diligence. I really do love this car. Hell, I look back every single time I park it. I don’t want to get rid of it...
I was driving home from college and using the radio when suddenly the radio began to die out on me.
then, the ABS light and the battery light came on. Rookie mistake #1: I kept driving.
Every time I pressed the brakes, all the needles on the dash would bounce down and back up when I let off it. Rookie mistake #2: I drove onto the NJ turnpike.
My LS began to struggle with the throttle, going on-off, on-off, on-off. Rookie mistake #3: I didn’t pull over.
I barely made it off the exit ramp and onto a local street when the car died on me, stuck in neutral. I got a tow ride back to my local mechanic, and me personally, I’m alive and well.
I definitely know it’s the alternator. But why’d it fail so suddenly? Could it be the power steering pump leak? I noticed this morning that there was a little whistle that rose and fell with the RPMs. I would like a solid confirmation from any expert on here.
****** me, I should’ve done my due diligence. I really do love this car. Hell, I look back every single time I park it. I don’t want to get rid of it...
That sounds terrible. I wouldn't feel safe driving it anymore unless it was guaranteed to be fixed.
That sounds terrible. I wouldn't feel safe driving it anymore unless it was guaranteed to be fixed.
I plan to have it fixed immediately. But, after this I don’t know if I’ll hold onto it. This will be the second major problem in 3 months, the first being that damn P770 code. I’m welling up tears just thinking about having to sell it. It’s a brilliant car, but for all intents and purposes it won’t help me survive the winter. Not like this.
Odd that nobody's mentioned ECU caps yet. You say you're at college: Do you have a lab tech there who might be able to help you with this? (Best case: You might get a lot of your problems fixed for free and in one go!)
Due to a family tragedy, I had to sell my Lexus. However, I got $200 more than I bought it for so I guess that’s cool. It went to a young mechanic who watched one too many Matt Farah videos, but I’m confident that it’ll be treated right
At the time that I sold it, the alternator was fixed and next up would’ve been the brakes and fuel filters, then rust spots, then new radio.
It was a great car. But family does come first. But I’m not admitting defeat! I’ll buy it back one day.
Mark my words, I’ll be back.
Last photo before she was whisked off. Enjoy the ****ty radials, Owner #4.
08-30-19, 09:22 AM
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