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Quick check on the manual from 2000, which I have in PDF form, page SA-36 shows 83 ft-lb (113 Nm) for those bushing bolts, 48 ft-lb for the castle nut. I can't confirm whether those numbers are the same for my '91 or your '90. Mabye later.
I think the exact same way you do regarding the need to jack the suspension before tightening the bushings. Unless the sleeve can rotate and allow it to self adjust, which could be the case. But worst case, it is an unnecessary step. And Dorman's instructions may similarly be overly cautious. Still, if I were doing it, I'd set the geometry at ride height before tightening any bushings, unless I had a convincing argument against needing it, and then I might do it anyway. ;-)
I've generally only heard good things about Harbor Freight torque wrenches, although I don't own one. I have about 5-6, mostly Craftsman USA ones.
Could it be that due to the ball joint threads sticking out further, and if you used a regular depth socket vs. a deep one, that as you torqued it on there, the end of the socket rose up into the castle portion of the nut (which is clearly much weaker), and you sheared that off? You would not have had that problem with a deep socket or a shorter ball joint stud. Just guessing here. Also, with more experience you can feel the difference between 48 and 100 ft-lb. There are some easy methods to calibrate (at least check) your torque wrench - youtube should show you how.
I don't know if I had that problem with my castle nut, but I certainly have had it in other applications over the years. So I always remove the old castle nut as if I might need to reuse it. Here in CA, there is never a problem with rust, so reusing is not something I worry about.
If you really want accurate torque for those bushing bolts, and don't want to remove the strut just because the torque wrench will not fit, you can use a torque wrench extension as shown in the following photo. You need to do a little math to adjust your torque wrench setting, but this sort of application is exactly what those are made for. Creative use of other tools or a welder can custom make an equivalent tool on the fly vs. keeping a full set of those in your toolbox.
Oldskewel, it is even more interesting than that. You can see in my pictures that there is a slot for the two bushings inthe body of the car. Metal on both sides, and one of mine was a bit tight, so I had to use a bit of force to pry it wider (just a hair though - you can't really bend it much at all).
So, now I am wondering: if there is a metal slot, into which the bushing fits quite easily, and then the bolt tightens to the metal that is NOT a part of the bushing, the torque probably makes very little if any difference, including having the ride height while torquing! The bushings should be loose in there, safely tucked away and protected by car's metal on both sides, and then the bolt goes through and holds them in place.
I imagine we could check this out by removing the castle nut, separating the ball joint from the knuckle and try to move the UCA up and down, around the two bolts. If it moves easily, which I believe it should, then, the whole "ride height install" is a waste of time.
What do you guys think?
That test you mention would definitely settle it as whether or not it is needed. But I'm not volunteering, and I would not think you would do it either, LOL.
Probably makes sense to do it on a case by case basis while doing the job - see if it rotates easily after some tightening. If not, loosen and adjust geometry to ride height before tightening. Even if it is supposed to be freely rotating, there could be a gouge or burr or something that prevents the sleeve from sliding freely.
Sorry for my spelling my brain is deep fried by now (plus I type around 100wpm and I wrote that tutorial dead tired - just decided to do it while it was all fresh in my memory.)
No, I didn't damage the castle nut - I did damage the first one, but that was a test run on the old UCA. I kinda didn't like it in comparison to Dorman one, ir was too soft. And the old one was also dorman and it was looking as good as new. I also keep the old castle nuts, just in case. And I have a few OEM ones also just in case.
If anyone does this job, please test whether your UCA moves freely up and down AFTER you properly torque the upper two bolts. Inquiring minds want to know.
I looked in the manual for my '91 and those torque specs listed above are correct for that one too.
Also, I looked at the section with instructions for this. They say to remove the strut, which I did, but hey they're known to specify more steps than are truly needed. Even worse on the lower control arms, which can be removed completely by themselves with a little finesse. They do NOT talk about pre-loading the suspension before tightening the bushing bolts. In fact they say to torque them down to 83 ft-lbs before the strut is even installed. That would not change what I do, but that's what the manual says.
Ha, I guess we're on to something here. Maybe dorman includes that warning with every set they send out, regardless of the model? And some models probably need to be preloaded first.
Ha, I guess we're on to something here. Maybe dorman includes that warning with every set they send out, regardless of the model? And some models probably need to be preloaded first.
Yes, if I sold bushings, I'd probably put that warning on everything, since in the vast majority of cases is it required.
With that warning, maybe the customer does a little extra unneeded work vs. they tear the bushing and blame the manufacturer. Specs and conditions (e.g., my example of if there is a burr or something that prevents the steel sleeve from rotating) may vary and rather than advocating a procedure where the user skips a pretty simple step, they just say to do it on all their products. If they tried to be careful and not give that warning in all cases, surely they'd miss some and not tell the customer when they should have.
Why does Lexus' manual not say the same thing? Maybe they figure a skilled mechanic would know to follow the instructions and then (knowing that rubber bushings need to be tightened at ride-height in most cases) make sure the UCA can rotate slightly even after the bushing bolts are torqued to 83 ft-lb.
Me? I'd do that^^^ too. I'd torque (now that we have looked at this more carefully) and then make sure it can pivot. If it can't, I'd loosen and torque again at ride height.
I haven't tried it (too lazy right now) but I can bet five bucks they can pivot easily even when tight. Probably even when overtorqued. Come to think of it, this would be one of those smart solutions by lexus: make a slot for the bushings so no one can tighten the heck out of them! They have protected their work of art from people like me
I have a set of Dorman UCA just waiting to go on my car now. Just sitting here for 6 months. Just opened the sealed boxes now to see how they look. There is only the castle nut and cotter pin, no paper with ride height directions or torque specs. After looking at it I guess over torquing the 2 bolts wouldn't do any damage to the bushing because of the metal sleeve in the middle of bushing. I guess it would just weaken the bolt, or nut that it's screwed into. I'm sure it does pivot, although just a little, the steering knuckle moves with every bump ya hit. I'm wondering why on the top side of the UCA above the bushings, it's flat. Did you notice if that was just for clearance for when it does pivot?
I've been looking through my manual for the 93 (cuz this got me wondering a little bit) But as for ride height and bushings I didn't see anything. The only thing that is in there is while doing some bushings, mainly in the rear and lower shock bolts, is to temporarily tighten the bolts, put tire on and lower car, bounce the car a few times, jack up and take tire off, jack up axle carrier and torque the bolts correctly.
Peter; up top where you mention you thought you saw somewhere the torque was 120 for the UCA bolts, you did, but it's for the rear UCA. Actually it's 121 and the rear upper ball joint is 80 ft lbs. Everything for the rear is alot more torque. Seeing how we're talking torque, when you do your CV joint boots, the torque when you put the axle back into the axle carrier is 253.
I have the same type torque wrench you have and sometimes it just wont work. I sometimes test it on a bolt I know is tighter just to see if it will work.
Thanks deanshark, those higher torque numbers probably came from the rear then. I noticed the same shaved off part at bushings - I think it was like that on OEM too.
I hear you about the torque wrench. Never thought it would be such a poor design. Probably have to get a new one.
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I have the same type torque wrench you have and sometimes it just wont work. I sometimes test it on a bolt I know is tighter just to see if it will work.
Sounds like the torque wrench needs to be retired to breaker bar duty. Really. Not worth the risk, to me.
On the pre-test, something similar I've learned to do is that when I need to torque a left handed fastener (rare, of course), never count on whether the torque wrench will click going CCW. So I always do a pre-test similar to your approach. Some of my torque wrenches click when going CCW, some don't, and I'd rather test than try to remember and hope not to make a mistake.
On the mega-high torque values, I have a torque multiplier to get those done accurately. But as long as you have the room to do it, I'd think that knowing your own body weight, calculating the moment arm length needed to get the torque, and then carefully, without bouncing or falling, standing on a spot at that length (using a cheater pipe if needed) should get it done well enough.
Sounds like the torque wrench needs to be retired to breaker bar duty. Really. Not worth the risk, to me.
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Ya can't just retire something just cause it's broken. That's what my old place of employment did to me.
But yea, it's not worth the risk. Now it's just a heavy ratchet. Time to get a digital torque wrench.
Ya can't just retire something just cause it's broken. That's what my old place of employment did to me.
But yea, it's not worth the risk. Now it's just a heavy ratchet. Time to get a digital torque wrench.
Well, at least it comes with 3 AA batteries.
Woulda been nice when I was younger but as little work as I do now I'm gonna go with a Craftsman "Digi-click" for $80.
You should see how this one glows in the dark... it has these crazy LEDs that go from green through yellow to red as you reach the correct torque. Then the handle vibrates to tell you you're done. And you can download all that to your PC
Crazy.
06-08-19, 01:12 PM
(plus I type around 100wpm and I wrote that tutorial dead tired - just decided to do it while it was all fresh in my memory.)
Just opened the sealed boxes now to see how they look. There is only the castle nut and cotter pin, no paper with ride height directions or torque specs. After looking at it I guess over torquing the 2 bolts wouldn't do any damage to the bushing because of the metal sleeve in the middle of bushing. I guess it would just weaken the bolt, or nut that it's screwed into. I'm sure it does pivot, although just a little, the steering knuckle moves with every bump ya hit. I'm wondering why on the top side of the UCA above the bushings, it's flat. Did you notice if that was just for clearance for when it does pivot?
Time to get a digital torque wrench.