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Gearing up to replace ignition components on my 1995 LS400 210,000km (120k mile?).
I believe mine has all ignition original components. No known issue currently, car drives great. Though im replacing my valve cover gaskets and want to do the ignition components at the same time.
Wondering if anyone has used beck/arnley distributor caps and rotors? any issues or positive reviews?
B/A is a heck of a lot cheaper than OEM on these parts. Wondering if the B/A quality is good enough.
Those are made in Japan and so are Bosch and many others - all made by the same company. I just posted about that not long ago under that discussion about aftermarket parts.
Are they good? Not great, but OKish. Mine lasted around 60k miles before it cracked and I was left limping home. Contacts are aluminum, which is inferior to copper. I assume OEM last longer and are copper contacts, but I am not sure. When I opened the working side's rotor, it was covered with crud. Looked terrible. Would that happen with OEM? Don't know, probably not.
Those are made in Japan and so are Bosch and many others - all made by the same company. I just posted about that not long ago under that discussion about aftermarket parts.
Are they good? Not great, but OKish. Mine lasted around 60k miles before it cracked and I was left limping home. Contacts are aluminum, which is inferior to copper. I assume OEM last longer and are copper contacts, but I am not sure. When I opened the working side's rotor, it was covered with crud. Looked terrible. Would that happen with OEM? Don't know, probably not.
Which part? Rotor and distributor? No, not for the valve cover gasket. Usually you change distributor and rotor when you do your timing belt, because you are right there, and if you want to change them on their own, there is a bit of stuff to remove first, about 3/4 of the way to the timing belt.
Which part? Rotor and distributor? No, not for the valve cover gasket. Usually you change distributor and rotor when you do your timing belt, because you are right there, and if you want to change them on their own, there is a bit of stuff to remove first, about 3/4 of the way to the timing belt.
no not the caps and rotors. there's a pic attached to my last post. highlighting what I believe it's the front cam seal. seems from the parts diagram it is easily accessible when the valve covers are off?
If you were only doing the valve covers, than, no you wouldn't be touching the timing belt, but for cam seals, I believe you do have to open up everything, which means you may as well do your timing belt at the same time, and that's also the time when you'd do the distributors, rotors, water pump and so on.
Right, that cam seal does not get done with the valve cover gaskets. It could be done without doing the full t-belt job by getting down to and removing the T-belt tensioner, and sliding the belt off the cam gears to get those off and then the seals. But if you're that far in (about half way) it's easier taking everything else off.
The thing I disagree with is changing the rotors and distributor "caps" only when you do the T-belt. I need to change my rotors, caps, plugs, and wires soon (all new parts I took off my old 93 LS) but I will NOT be changing the T-belt at that time. The belt has only about 105K miles on it. Hopefully it lasts til I get a new car but if not, oh well, then the only thing I lose is a tow home. This car isn't worth the extra time and cash. But if your car is worth it then it's best to do everything at the same time.
Right, that cam seal does not get done with the valve cover gaskets. It could be done without doing the full t-belt job by getting down to and removing the T-belt tensioner, and sliding the belt off the cam gears to get those off and then the seals. But if you're that far in (about half way) it's easier taking everything else off.
The thing I disagree with is changing the rotors and distributor "caps" only when you do the T-belt. I need to change my rotors, caps, plugs, and wires soon (all new parts I took off my old 93 LS) but I will NOT be changing the T-belt at that time. The belt has only about 105K miles on it. Hopefully it lasts til I get a new car but if not, oh well, then the only thing I lose is a tow home. This car isn't worth the extra time and cash. But if your car is worth it then it's best to do everything at the same time.
This could work up to the halfway point but when it comes time to position and re-tension the timing belt you are completely blind to the markings on the crank pulley. I wouldn't dream of it....
This could work up to the halfway point but when it comes time to position and re-tension the timing belt you are completely blind to the markings on the crank pulley. I wouldn't dream of it....
The timing mark for the crankshaft is on the timing cover and the crank pulley (which wouldn't come off anyway) so that timing mark is already set. The marks on the crankshaft gear, behind the timing cover, help with the markings on a new T-belt to line up all 3 marks. (crank and 2 cams) I never used the marks on the belt, just the timing marks on the engine. I wouldn't suggest that job for someone who is not experienced.
The timing mark for the crankshaft is on the timing cover and the crank pulley (which wouldn't come off anyway) so that timing mark is already set. The marks on the crankshaft gear, behind the timing cover, help with the markings on a new T-belt to line up all 3 marks. (crank and 2 cams) I never used the marks on the belt, just the timing marks on the engine. I wouldn't suggest that job for someone who is not experienced.
There's no question you know your stuff Dean, and I'm not suggesting either of us is necessarily right or wrong. I just know I wouldn't trust the belt to stay in place on the crank pulley, without tension, especially as you couldn't see if it moved or not...
OEM Distributor cap assembly part number is 19101-50020
OEM Rotor is 19102-50020
The caps are slightly heavier than aftermarket and include hardware and vent caps..
The rotor is slightly heavier as well.
I recall replacing caps and rotors on a 1993 and the aftermarket was not best quality.
Installed OEM - quality molding , better fit and materials...more $ but worth it. You decide.
Wow, that contact on the OEM rotor seems to have some special coating that is silver color. Cap, on the other hand, seems to have aluminum contacts?
And, strange that Denso does not sell it as their own part, but only to Toyota.
Wow, that contact on the OEM rotor seems to have some special coating that is silver color. Cap, on the other hand, seems to have aluminum contacts?
And, strange that Denso does not sell it as their own part, but only to Toyota.
Yes, the rotor has a coating were it contacts (or arcs) with the distributor cap contacts.
Have not seen a LS400 distributor cap with brass contacts....
06-23-19, 09:41 PM
Beck/Arnley distributor cap/rotor?
This car isn't worth the extra time and cash. But if your car is worth it then it's best to do everything at the same time.
