peterls

How hard is it to replace strut bar cushions on Gen 1 LS? (I've got OEMs ready and waiting - just the cushions) I took a quick peek yesterday and it seemed like there is only three nuts on one side and one big one on the other. But it was dark, evening, so I was just touching, don't even know if my hand tools would fit in there (seems kinda tight ?)
Anyone done that?

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

Also known as the "strut rod bushings", and yes, I've done that on my '91. Very easy. Lexus PN #48674-50030

Found this in my notes, from about 10 years ago:
Step 1:
Remove the tires

Step 2:
Loosen (don't remove) the two nuts holding the rear end of the strut bar to the suspension. They are 19mm

Step 3:
Loosen the strut bar cushion with 17 mm (3x)

Step 4:
Loosen the main strut bar nut 24mm and push from behind. The cushion will pop right out. Use some grease on the cushion along with the inside part. It will slide right in and tighten all the screws. No alignment adjustment is required.

The whole process takes about 30 minutes for both sides.

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I can see that I did not write that, but it does fit with my basic memory. Here are some more tips on it:
It is very important to tighten that big nut only when the car is back on the ground. You do not want to make it tight with a preload, since that constant torque may affect handling and will prematurely tear the rubber.
So you get everything installed on there, but leave the big nut loose, and then put the tires back on, lower the car back on the ground, and you should be able to torque it like that - yes, things are accessible like that.
And you loosen those two bolts on the back end of the bar just to allow it to re-center itself. Once you have the new one installed and re-centered, torque those down.
Sorry, I did not note the torque values.

peterls

Great info, thank you oldskewel!
BTW, I seem to remember that the big nut needs more than 200lbs of torque - will I be able to get a breaker bar and cheater bar in there once the car is on the ground?

Bylan

Some car ramps will make the process MUCH easier, but you should be able to get a braker bar/torque wrench in there with enough swing-angle to tighten it. Getting ready to do mine as well, but I have to get the bushings pressed into the arms since I didn't want to swing the extra cost of the arm as an assembly. I may look into just buying full arms and selling the bushings I bought like a year ago...

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

I don't remember the torque being that high. But whatever it was, I was able to torque it with the wheels on the ground. I'm away from home, so I can't look up the torque value.

Car ramps would be fine too - the suspension is properly loaded there too.

peterls

Thanks guys, I have ramps, and will do it on ramps to get more space.

I found torque values:

Strut Assembly Retaining ................... 27
Strut Bar Assembly Retaining Bolts ......... 59
Strut Bar-to-Lower Arm Nuts .............. 121
Strut Bar (Front Nut) ..................... 87

Now, I can think of only three sets of bolts: the two connecting it to the knuckle, (121), the three smaller ones (59) and the main one (87) , so what's "strut assembly retaining"?

deanshark

The torque specs ya have here are correct according to my manual. (1993) It doesn't say anything like "strut assembly retaining". The manual shows how to remove the whole strut bar, (which includes the shock, steering knuckle, and lower shock bracket) not just the cushion so I'm thinking that "strut assembly retaining" would be the nut that connects the shock and shock mount. But the manual shows that nut at 20 ft lbs. which is 27 N.m for the torque.
Just wondering, where do you get your torque specs from?

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

I would not trust a written list like that, since so many things can go by different names (e.g., "strut bar cushions" vs. "strut rod bushings"). I'd find the actual manual for your year and find the diagram with the torque values clearly listed.

Also, for the help of others, listing units (ft-lb vs. N-m) will help.

It doesn't matter how good your procedure is or how accurate your torque wrench is if you are torquing to the wrong target. I would not try to guess here.

I'd look it up for you in my '91 service manual, but I'm away from home (and for at least another week).

In case it's not obvious to some readers, the strut bar design changed significantly at some point in the 90's, so later info will not work for the earlier cars.

peterls

The list is from a PDF which I think I downloaded from lextreme site... Thank you deanshark - glad to see the numbers are the same as in your manual. (Yes, units are ft-lb)

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

Here's the page from the 2000 manual (I have a PDF copy of that). From that, you can see how the diagram shows the actual fastener with the torque value next to it, so there can be no confusion on torque value, even if there is confusion on what the various parts are called. So I'd try to find a similar page for your '90 or equivalent.