Here we go.

So, I'm incredibly limited with what I can do at the moment with pulling apart my car. Dad's garage is full of projects and I can't get my car into my Granddad's garage. The lifts are tied up so I have a jack and some old drift spares..

I had an issue where the car would want to stutter whenever I began moving from a stopped position. I let it ride for a couple of weeks and then a clunk developed whenever it would go into second and third gear. Manually moving the gear selector didn't help. After letting it sit for a week or so due to work, upon startup, the CEL popped on. I cleared the code like most lazy people would and went about my day. I drove the car for another week and the shifting went back to normal. Then it rained. The issue only occurred whenever it rained or was humid.

I parked the car for 9 months due to not having a use for the car. Once I was able you retire the truck from daily duty, I got busy with diagnosing the issue. Since my car is relatively low (and as I said before, limited resources), I started with checking voltages at the shifter to make sure there wasn't an issue there since every light on the gear selector in cluster was lit up. After verifying proper voltages, I knew I'd have go get under the car.



After crawling under, I didn't take but one picture. Sorry... The NSS is located on the passenger side in a fairly tight spot but I was able to get a ratchet with a 12mm in there to pop off the bolt. The slide pin thingy that connects the linkage to the transmission pops off with a 12mm socket quite easily. There's another nut behind that (once you pull the linkage off) that should turn loose without any effort (used an adjustable wrench, not sure of the size). Not sure on the torque spec since I couldn't fit the torque wrench under there and I couldn't Google anything while under the car.. Nonetheless, it took no effort to break the nut loose. I'm somewhat of a professional so I just reinstalled to what felt normal (trust me, I'm a professional )



You may need to pry a little to pop off the switch but it doesn't take much persuasion.

After the switch is off, get some water and drink it. You need to stay hydrated.



After you have the switch in a comfortable spot, remove the backing screws that hold the switch together. There is a gasket between the two halves.



Looks pretty, right? Well, despite its charm, it needed to be cleaned. I used 80 grit since that's all I had. I'd use contact cleaner if I would've had any.. I know, 80 grit isn't a good idea, but, since the contacts are spring loaded, a solid connection should happen no matter what you do.

After hitting the contacts with the 80 grit, we got this.


I cleaned out the rest of the unit and left a bit of the OE grease in there so things could operate somewhat normally. I would find a different electrical type grease and thoroughly clean the unit for someone else's car but I left it for mine.

I reinstalled the backing screws and put it back on the car. It took me about 45 minutes to complete the entire procedure.

In conclusion, don't spend the $408 on a Lexus NSS. Just fix the one you have!

Oh, the car was originally a northern car (New Jersey if I remember correctly) and then taken to Florida by the same owner. After its stay in Florida, it ventured to Virginia Beach. Presumably the beach climate is the main culprit. From the research I've done, this is a fairly common issue in Japan with the Celsior. I don't know anyone in Japan or that owns a Celsior to confirm this though.

Sorry for the mess I've created with this post. Hopefully someone can use this wall of text..

 

Good info, thanks for taking the time to document and share with us!

 

Oldskewel told me to do it! I didn't intend to make a DIY out of this or I would've taken many more pictures and actually remembered everything.. I need to start a build thread so I can document these things more thoroughly.

 

This is what OEM manufacturers use in a lot of new cars

Lubriplate L0137-086 DS-ES Tube

https://www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-L0137-086-DS-ES-Tube/dp/B000UXKY5S/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Lubriplate+Ds-es+Lubricant&qid=1565700767&s=automotive&sr=1-2

 

Anyone know what brand and product Toyota's switch supplier use?

 

I've seen some bad how-to's in my life, and sir, your thread title is deceptive and even a humblebrag.

 

A few comments;

Any markings on switch indicating manufacturer?

Multi-meter readings before disassembly?

After reassembly?

The lubricant is no doubt tired after 20-30 years, so replacing/replenishing it makes sense.

What lubricant did switch manufacturer use?

It appears yellow, so if so then probably Toyota Body Grease.





Are the plastic bearing interface surfaces tight?

80 grit sandpaper abrading (copper?) contact interface surfaces on a precision switch is a big no-no...contact cleaner is better...maybe 1000 grit.

There appears to be some material between back of the wiper arm and plastic housing that is worn away(?)

 

I use this below for contacts recommended by a local dealer manager. I also have evaluated it and it works well.

 

There is no mystery to a NSS,about as basic a switch as you will ever encounter.Open it,scrape out old junk,spray out the remainder with your cleaner of choice,i like deoxit when Im feeling expansive,shine up the surfaces,add your electrical grease of choice and you are golden.

After seeing what Toyota yellow grease hardens into,Im personally not a fan.Thats me,use what you like,its your car.

Good post OP.

 

haha great post! I knew others would chime into input what contact grease is best.
crazy to know there is actually a factory tube of lube specific for things like this!

 

Yamae;
This appears to be quality product.
Lexus North America informs me 08887-02106 is no longer available..
Suggestions where to purchase?

Attached is datasheet.

 

I bought it at a local トヨタ部品共販(Toyota Buhin Kyohan). In English it can be translated Toyota Parts Sales. You can find more at here below although it's in Japanese.
https://toyota.jp/kyohan/

 

Can anyone help me locate the NSS? I have my car jacked up and I thought I would be able to find it myself without trouble. I know from the post that its on the passengers side. Thanks.

 

I think I have located it. I need a better jack. Still not really understanding the whole thing but I will read the how to more.

Edit: Ok, so the part with the metal square is the linkage. The NSS is behind that part which needs to removed to get to the NSS.. I see.


Edit: I could not get the room needed to get a socket wrench even in there. My bottle jack is not sufficient. A real jack is needed to work on your own car. Bottle jack was a waste of money, tha'ts what I get for being cheap.

 

I honestly don't remember anymore. The part number was an OE Lexus number, I do remember that much.

I wasn't intending on doing a how-to for this so I have forgotten what resistance(s) my multimeter gave me.

I didn't have a micrometer here at the house nor the time to figure out exactly what the OE specifications for the bearing are. There wasn't any noticable movement that was indicative of an improperly shaped or worn bearing though. It was as snug as it could be.

80 grit is all I had. My wife rearranged our workshop in the basement and I couldn't find anything. My contact cleaner was gone and every other grit of sand paper had vanished other than my 3000 and 5000. I would've used anything else otherwise. I didn't use much pressure, just enough to wipe away the gunk.

The black on the casing seemed to be worn out grease. It was easily removable with nothing more than a finger. I used micro fiber to clean everything I could since my lent- free towels seem to have vanished as well. Must have a ghost in the house because nothing is ever where I leave it..

If I would've planned to do a how-to, I would've done everything properly and documented things more thoroughly. Once I finish my kitchen remodel, I can get numbers. I don't mind removing the switch again.