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Thank you.
Do you do a standard break in after applying the product?
NO, just apply it ON THE FACE OF THE PAD, let it dry (I used ceramic pads) install and you are ready ... in all those YEARS , never had a comeback.... for squeeking
on my Lexus, I bought rotors,pads from overstock as a kit.. ..
Like Bradland said, those shims are often overlooked, I recently had to dig up old pads and tranfer those shims to new pads!!!
And I saturate the pads with StopSqueal too, I use OEM pads.
Hate to say it, but if the Oreilly pads are a semi-metallic pad, then you'll be getting a lot of squealing with those. Its best to go with a NAO or Non Asbestos Organic pad or "ceramic" as they all call it. This is the factory pad that Lexus uses and provides the longest lasting friction compound and is gentle on rotors usually with very little dusting on the wheels as it wears. I currently have Wagner Thermoquiets that the previous owner installed over 60k ago and they still have close to half the life left. They're noisy on the very first stop but are quiet after that with no judder or NVH.
I just recently purchased some pads off RockAuto, Beck Arnley's Ultra Premium brand and got a random selection between Sumitomo, Advics and Sangsin. I received the Sangsin, was hoping for the Sumitomo as this is the factory Lexus brake pad (the backplate has it stamped on it if you remove the shims) but I found out Sangsin has been around for over 50 years and is the OEM pad supplier for Hyundai/Kia in Korea and makes really good pads, so I'll see when I install them sometime this week.
Oreilly actually turns rotors too, for $12 per rotor if you need yours redone. I try to find an older guy to do it who's had auto experience if you can, not a high school kid that that recently got the job and will remove way too much material on the rotors.
The only grease that I installed on my Thermoquiets was on the ears of the pads where they contact the brake hardware and where the pistons come into contact with the backplate. The best is a copper based grease, as it'll never dry out and is good for high temperatures.
I work for a friction supplier for all the OEMs here in Michigan and they rarely use any grease on those pads. Its all in the shim that quiets the squealing down with the rubber encased steel that isolates all the noise by damping and eliminating the high frequencies. You either have adhesive backed or sometimes there are multiple shims that clip onto the backplate on some pickup truck applications F250/350/450/550 to isolate the high frequencies.
These are the thermoquiets after I milled a 1mm layer of friction off after turning my rotors to provide a nice even surface to bed onto. This is a copper free material which is the best for quiet stops and the environment as it won't dirty up the roads when dusting, not very good for repeated heavy track use though, as it doesn't have metal in the compound to absorb a ton of heat. If you look at your pads and see little gold specs in there, that's the copper embedded in the friction material, which manufacturers are trying to avoid now in the future.
For new pads, the bedding process is VERY important in getting a transfer layer on the surface of the rotor to promote the best frictional coefficient and mates the pad and rotor together each time when the brakes are applied. Usually done by doing pretty heavy stops from 40-5mph, about 10x in a row back to back. You want to get the pads pretty hot, to the point that they start gassing and you smelling the pad material. But you don't however want to come to a stop after this, as this will cause DTV, Disc Thickness Variation, by putting hotspots into the rotor, heat soaking it in certain spots. Immediately after doing the bedding stops, drive at a constant speed to cool the brakes down for about 5-10 min without stopping (freeways or low traffic side roads with minimal lights are best). This provides airflow to cool the rotors and pads gradually. If you have a 95-00 LS400, the dust shields I found out are stamped in a way to direct airflow from under the car onto the brakes, kinda cool.
I have a 1998 that was sitting for nearly 2 years. The brakes squeaked the first couple time they were applied due to the rust. Since then, totally quite. Must be bad bads. I didn't even change the pads.
I'd used wagner thermoquiets in my other cars without any problems, but immediately got a squeal when I put them on my Lexus.
Ditto. I used them on my Acura Integra and they were pure heaven with Brembo rotors. Then I try the same combo on my LS and got exact opposite - loud squeal every morning.
Akebono with centric works great though.
I have a 1998 that was sitting for nearly 2 years. The brakes squeaked the first couple time they were applied due to the rust. Since then, totally quite. Must be bad bads. I didn't even change the pads.
I did notice a pic in your other thread where you can see where the pad was sitting for the 2 yrs. (front rotor) Maybe you just wore off the surface rust and they're good now.
Ditto. I used them on my Acura Integra and they were pure heaven with Brembo rotors. Then I try the same combo on my LS and got exact opposite - loud squeal every morning.
Akebono with centric works great though.
I got the same ones but they are a squeal fest. Ordering akebonos
I got the Sangsin pads installed and they're very quiet. The rotors look even better after bedding the pads than the thermoquiets. They also have a better initial bite as the pedal is applied, but not grabby, very linear in application.
Hate to say it, but if the Oreilly pads are a semi-metallic pad, then you'll be getting a lot of squealing with those. Its best to go with a NAO or Non Asbestos Organic pad or "ceramic" as they all call it. This is the factory pad that Lexus uses and provides the longest lasting friction compound and is gentle on rotors usually with very little dusting on the wheels as it wears. I currently have Wagner Thermoquiets that the previous owner installed over 60k ago and they still have close to half the life left. They're noisy on the very first stop but are quiet after that with no judder or NVH.
I just recently purchased some pads off RockAuto, Beck Arnley's Ultra Premium brand and got a random selection between Sumitomo, Advics and Sangsin. I received the Sangsin, was hoping for the Sumitomo as this is the factory Lexus brake pad (the backplate has it stamped on it if you remove the shims) but I found out Sangsin has been around for over 50 years and is the OEM pad supplier for Hyundai/Kia in Korea and makes really good pads, so I'll see when I install them sometime this week.
Oreilly actually turns rotors too, for $12 per rotor if you need yours redone. I try to find an older guy to do it who's had auto experience if you can, not a high school kid that that recently got the job and will remove way too much material on the rotors.
The only grease that I installed on my Thermoquiets was on the ears of the pads where they contact the brake hardware and where the pistons come into contact with the backplate. The best is a copper based grease, as it'll never dry out and is good for high temperatures.
I work for a friction supplier for all the OEMs here in Michigan and they rarely use any grease on those pads. Its all in the shim that quiets the squealing down with the rubber encased steel that isolates all the noise by damping and eliminating the high frequencies. You either have adhesive backed or sometimes there are multiple shims that clip onto the backplate on some pickup truck applications F250/350/450/550 to isolate the high frequencies.
These are the thermoquiets after I milled a 1mm layer of friction off after turning my rotors to provide a nice even surface to bed onto. This is a copper free material which is the best for quiet stops and the environment as it won't dirty up the roads when dusting, not very good for repeated heavy track use though, as it doesn't have metal in the compound to absorb a ton of heat. If you look at your pads and see little gold specs in there, that's the copper embedded in the friction material, which manufacturers are trying to avoid now in the future.
For new pads, the bedding process is VERY important in getting a transfer layer on the surface of the rotor to promote the best frictional coefficient and mates the pad and rotor together each time when the brakes are applied. Usually done by doing pretty heavy stops from 40-5mph, about 10x in a row back to back. You want to get the pads pretty hot, to the point that they start gassing and you smelling the pad material. But you don't however want to come to a stop after this, as this will cause DTV, Disc Thickness Variation, by putting hotspots into the rotor, heat soaking it in certain spots. Immediately after doing the bedding stops, drive at a constant speed to cool the brakes down for about 5-10 min without stopping (freeways or low traffic side roads with minimal lights are best). This provides airflow to cool the rotors and pads gradually. If you have a 95-00 LS400, the dust shields I found out are stamped in a way to direct airflow from under the car onto the brakes, kinda cool.
I'm sorry I didn't have notifications on, but still wanted to thank you for all the info.
10-02-19, 07:49 PM
