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I had to swap the coolant temperature sensor from the old radiator to the new. My eyes aren't what they used to be so I grabbed hold of the housing and started twisting "lefty loosey" on it to unscrew it. Didn't sound good, sounded kind of like grinding. Then I realized there's a nut at the base, got a deep 17mm (or 19?) socket and removed it. Knew I shoulda "you-tubed" it. Now I'm thinking if I broke some internals then replacing it later will involve the spilling of at least some coolant so I figure I might as well replace it now. Best I could find on an OEM is about $72 shipped. The Beck/Arnley shown below, for example, is about $16 shipped. Anyone have experience or opinion on any of these?
I had to swap the coolant temperature sensor from the old radiator to the new. My eyes aren't what they used to be so I grabbed hold of the housing and started twisting "lefty loosey" on it to unscrew it. Didn't sound good, sounded kind of like grinding. Then I realized there's a nut at the base, got a deep 17mm (or 19?) socket and removed it. Knew I shoulda "you-tubed" it. Now I'm thinking if I broke some internals then replacing it later will involve the spilling of at least some coolant so I figure I might as well replace it now. Best I could find on an OEM is about $72 shipped. The Beck/Arnley shown below, for example, is about $16 shipped. Anyone have experience or opinion on any of these?
Is this a typo possibly...?
The coolant temp sensor screws into a water passage on the front of the engine, not the radiator.
Disregard this I should have opened my eyes!!! The pic above clearly reads "Rad Fan Switch"
Just be careful putting the new sensor in. When I was doing that on my new radiator, it actually busted through the side of the radiator. I found out the replacement radiator was actually about a half inch less thick than the original one. Had to send the replacement radiator back and buy a new one from another vendor.
It should not click. It should smoothly move under tension. So that's a problem.
And you don't do anything to adjust tension. The tension is set by the spring inside the assembly. You just install it to the specified torque, then when you torque the 14mm bolt (lefty loosey) to "loosen" the tensioner, you're pivoting the pulley so you can slip the belt on it. Then at that point, the tension is set based on the spring. And slightly based on the length of the belt if it is not to spec.
I put a wrench on it and released the tension on the belt. Moved very smooth so I think it's OK. Might have been clicking when I pushed on the belt because that would have put force down and to the left (versus only to the left) and maybe cause a little bit of binding. Thanks.
Just be careful putting the new sensor in. When I was doing that on my new radiator, it actually busted through the side of the radiator. I found out the replacement radiator was actually about a half inch less thick than the original one. Had to send the replacement radiator back and buy a new one from another vendor.
Thanks for the tip. I already put the one that came out into the new radiator and that went fine. Since you've mentioned this I'll be sure to compare the new sensor/switch to old one to make sure they have the same dimensions.
Just be careful putting the new sensor in. When I was doing that on my new radiator, it actually busted through the side of the radiator. I found out the replacement radiator was actually about a half inch less thick than the original one. Had to send the replacement radiator back and buy a new one from another vendor.
Good advice. And in general, I have learned to check carefully on all screw and fitting attachments on replacement radiators.
For example, making sure that the captive nuts are not placed so that re-using the original screws will poke through and contact the plastic tank.
Slight differences in dimensions of the replacement part can cause these problems. And at the low low price they are sold at, and the variety of cars they are designed to work on, it is understandable.
Good advice. And in general, I have learned to check carefully on all screw and fitting attachments on replacement radiators.
For example, making sure that the captive nuts are not placed so that re-using the original screws will poke through and contact the plastic tank.
Slight differences in dimensions of the replacement part can cause these problems. And at the low low price they are sold at, and the variety of cars they are designed to work on, it is understandable.
For me it was a real pain in the ***. I already had the new radiator installed and was filling it up with coolant before I discovered the leak.
Thanks for this ^^. I had a shop check out the car and they came up with a laundry list of things that needed done. One of them was replacing the PS pump. The quote for this was spendy so I started doing research. Since the pump is making no odd noise even at full lock I had wondered whether the ACV could be the culprit. For the price versus a new pump I think it's worth a shot. Could this valve be the source of a fluid leak? Steering is heavy when moving slow, fine at speed. After having a good look there is definitely PS fluid leaking from somewhere - I need to clean everything up real well and figure out where the leak is coming from.
I'm imagining all of this stuff is going to be easier to get at while I have the radiator out to replace due to the coolant leak. Timing belt because it's 15 years old. Probably not necessary to take the radiator out to work on the PS pump, lines, etc... but wouldn't there be more room to work with it out?
You're doing an amazing job. I think if you do the steering now you'd have more elbow room. Seems it would be a personal preference. Another advantage to doing it now is all the leaks (and accompanying mess) would be addressed at the same time.
Thanks. The disadvantage of doing the power steering while the radiator is out is that once I get everything back together, fluid into both systems, I'll need to be topping up both systems simultaneously once I start it. Another thing that might be easy for the experienced but I'll need to read up on both several times before commencing and then it'll still be a hectic 15-20 minutes for me I'm sure. Can I use one of those big funnels on the cooling system fill for the LS400 so I can just overfill it and let it take it as it needs it?
Little frustrated right now. Ordered a bunch of parts that FedEx was supposed to deliver today so I made arrangements to be home today. Yesterday received a tracking message that they were delivered all of a sudden (24 hours prior to expected delivery) and signed for by a name I don't know. Within an hour of the delivery time I called and asked my neighbor to pick up the package and it wasn't there. I opened a "case" with FedEx and they called me and said the delivery driver delivered the package and it was signed for by this name I've never heard of who was in my back yard. All very strange. I'm hoping it was delivered to the wrong house and whoever has it finally realizes it's not theirs and they don't want it and sees my address on it and brings it to me. I can hope right?
, fluid into both systems, I'll need to be topping up both systems simultaneously once I start it. Can I use one of those big funnels on the cooling system fill for the LS400 so I can just overfill it and let it take it as it needs it?
You don't need to top off both at same time. Just fill both as much as you can to start with. Then start with the PS pump adding a little. The coolant needs time to warm up anyway before the thermostat opens and you'll have to add more coolant. You'll need to bleed the air out of the PS pump by turning the steering wheel left to right (lock to lock) I thinks it's 3 times. Then top off the fluid to full.
Do not leave a funnel full of coolant in the fill hole. Add a little at a time. (1) The funnel can fall and spill or (2) you can have too much in it at the end. That extra coolant can spill out and flow down inside the timing cover and get on the belt which can slip. Then you have bigger problems.
You don't need to top off both at same time. Just fill both as much as you can to start with. Then start with the PS pump adding a little. The coolant needs time to warm up anyway before the thermostat opens and you'll have to add more coolant. You'll need to bleed the air out of the PS pump by turning the steering wheel left to right (lock to lock) I thinks it's 3 times. Then top off the fluid to full.
Do not leave a funnel full of coolant in the fill hole. Add a little at a time. (1) The funnel can fall and spill or (2) you can have too much in it at the end. That extra coolant can spill out and flow down inside the timing cover and get on the belt which can slip. Then you have bigger problems.
Dean hit the nail on the head here but I will elaborate a bit...
Not only does the coolant need time to warm up, which extends your working window, the cooling system of an LS is so over engineered running it a little low of coolant wont get you in trouble. I'm not suggesting you should drive it this way but it takes a lot to make these cars overheat.
Thanks @deanshark and @bradland . Makes plenty sense. I guess it won't be as difficult as I thought.
And in other news... the FedEx guy apparently tossed my package over the fence into my backyard since nobody was home. The story of some unknown person signing for it is a little suspicious but I've got my stuff.
I also got a little steam cleaner thing so I can start cleaning everything up in the engine bay and get to work putting this thing back together.
the FedEx guy apparently tossed my package over the fence into my backyard since nobody was home. The story of some unknown person signing for it is a little suspicious but I've got my stuff.
Sometimes ya just think too hard and throw yourself off.
I hate FedEx but whatcha gonna do? It's the way of life now, til the drones start deliveries. Then you'll find your packages on the roof. It was nice when ya had to go to the post office. Less convenient, but nice.
01-25-20, 10:13 AM
Can I use one of those big funnels on the cooling system fill for the LS400 so I can just overfill it and let it take it as it needs it?
Then you'll find your packages on the roof. It was nice when ya had to go to the post office. Less convenient, but nice.