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93 LS400 traction control causing blower motor to cut
Hi everyone!
As title states, when trac kicks in the blower seems to loose power. Not fully, but noticeably. I just replaced the alternator, but I'm thinking the battery is weak as well. Wondering if I'm just being oversensitive to small things after putting time and money into changing the alternator or if this is normal.
As title states, when trac kicks in the blower seems to loose power. Not fully, but noticeably. I just replaced the alternator, but I'm thinking the battery is weak as well. Wondering if I'm just being oversensitive to small things after putting time and money into changing the alternator or if this is normal.
I'd put a voltage gauge in the cig lighter socket. You can get those for $2 on eBay. It will let you know exactly how the voltage is dropping when loads come on. How the voltage is before startup, idling after startup, etc., all of which are useful in figuring out if you've got a battery or alternator issue, or something else.
And as many have learned on this and other forums, just because you have a new alternator, don't assume it is good, depending on where you got it.
I'd put a voltage gauge in the cig lighter socket. You can get those for $2 on eBay. It will let you know exactly how the voltage is dropping when loads come on. How the voltage is before startup, idling after startup, etc., all of which are useful in figuring out if you've got a battery or alternator issue, or something else.
And as many have learned on this and other forums, just because you have a new alternator, don't assume it is good, depending on where you got it.
Oh for sure, I've definitely gotten bad alternators out of the box before. Can confirm this one is working atleast better then the old one. No more battery lights and dying radio/heater. Since replacement It sat in traffic for over an hour at idle with heat blowing fine.
Both lighter ports are not working, but as previously stated I need to check the fuses, I'm sure ones burnt. Once the weekend rolls around and it's not -35c out I would like to get a ohm meter on the battery and check it cold, idle with electronics off and idle with everything on just to see what I'm working with. I do notice since replacing the alternator the blower motor rpms increase off idle (when pulling away from lights for example) and a slight brightening of cluster lights and headlights so I'm wondering if it's just not outputting enough at idle. Again, untill I can get a meter on it and see it's all uncertain. I know book idle is 650 +/- 50 rpm my car seems to idle low as is, that could possibly have something to do with it as well. Will report back after I get the ohm meter on it
Sounds good. Voltmeter is what you want. Multimeter is a general purpose meter that measures voltage, resitsance (Ohms), current, etc.
Any alternator will output less at lower RPM. And it is not an uncommon issue on these cars to have the resulting voltage dip affect things like fan speed and headlight brightness. Those symptoms would generally indicate a weaker-than-it-should-be alternator, which often happens due to leaking PS fluid damaging the slip ring to brush interfaces. Could also be due to lower idle speed. The voltage gauge will conveniently let you monitor system voltage when you notice those dips in fan speed.
On the power outlets, having both failed indicates a fuse. But be aware there is also a thermal fuse in the socket itself that can be problematic - discussed in a few threads on here. So if you fix the electrical fuse and still don't have power, look into that.
Sounds good. Voltmeter is what you want. Multimeter is a general purpose meter that measures voltage, resitsance (Ohms), current, etc.
Any alternator will output less at lower RPM. And it is not an uncommon issue on these cars to have the resulting voltage dip affect things like fan speed and headlight brightness. Those symptoms would generally indicate a weaker-than-it-should-be alternator, which often happens due to leaking PS fluid damaging the slip ring to brush interfaces. Could also be due to lower idle speed. The voltage gauge will conveniently let you monitor system voltage when you notice those dips in fan speed.
On the power outlets, having both failed indicates a fuse. But be aware there is also a thermal fuse in the socket itself that can be problematic - discussed in a few threads on here. So if you fix the electrical fuse and still don't have power, look into that.
And wow, -35C.
Yeah gotta love Canada! Can confirm that I don't actually have a power steering leak, it's nice and dry all around the pump or atleast was last weekend when I slammed the "new" (reman) alt in, I actually pulled a factory alt out of it, wasn't surprised she gave up the ghost. I did however have to destroy the molex clip on the back of the alternator so it's just pressed in as tight as possible with a touch of dielectric grease to hold it together. Have a new pigtail on order for it. Untill I can get a meter on it I truely have no way of knowing if the alt is bad or not. But when at traffic lights, if I pop it in neutral and let the rpm come up just a touch the lights/blower etc all resume operation as of I was in motion. So I'm leaning towards it being low idle. Might have to try adjusting the tps sensor and bump some more idle into it. I'll save that for once I get a meter on it!
Okay gang! We had a nice day today only -3c and my coworker brought his voltmeter with him! Checked 3 times, once engine off, after sitting alllllll day, got a reading of 14.75, fired the car up let it warm up while finished up work, came back to it just idling down to warm idle, checked again, engine running and warm, everything off, 17.60, turned EVERYTHING on in the car, 17.45@ idle.
I feel like that's kinda high? I have not had a chance to check the grounds and fuses as per yodaones recommendations, that's my weekend project so long as we have nice weather
Okay gang! We had a nice day today only -3c and my coworker brought his voltmeter with him! Checked 3 times, once engine off, after sitting alllllll day, got a reading of 14.75, fired the car up let it warm up while finished up work, came back to it just idling down to warm idle, checked again, engine running and warm, everything off, 17.60, turned EVERYTHING on in the car, 17.45@ idle.
I feel like that's kinda high? I have not had a chance to check the grounds and fuses as per yodaones recommendations, that's my weekend project so long as we have nice weather
That's more than 3V higher than normal. The voltage is not regulated. I worry that you didn't properly connect 3 signal lines behind the alternator especially the line named S which means sense. When the feed back line "S" is not connected, the alternator's output voltage exceeds 17V or higher.
Another item to check is the "alternator fuse 7.5A" in the fuse box located behind the battery. This fuse is used at the feed back line.
That's more than 3V higher than normal. The voltage is not regulated. I worry that you didn't properly connect 3 signal lines behind the alternator especially the line named S which means sense. When the feed back line "S" is not connected, the alternator's output voltage exceeds 17V or higher.
Another item to check is the "alternator fuse 7.5A" in the fuse box located behind the battery. This fuse is used at the feed back line.
Interesting, it could be that the "s" line is plugged in upside down seeing as the tab disintegrated. I'm also wondering if the voltmeter used is not accurate because I feel like resting state of the battery shouldn't be 14v.
I also feel like if it's getting full 17+ volts the battery would have been boiled and it would have killed some electronics by now. Assuming the meter was off by 2v would put me within 14-15v idle which is on the money. Gunna have some things to look at come the weekend for sure.
couldn't find a voltmeter in the garage (hence why I had a coworker bring one in) but did find this, it's been sitting since coming home 3 hours ago, this reads 12.7ish right on the money for resting battery. I'm gunna assume his meter was trash, after 11 days since alternator replacement if its been seeing unregulated voltage something should have given up by now, going to take the car in for a charging system test tomorrow will update once done.
Didnt even think of this but checked it running with this tool on it and it's dead on perfect, I'm not overcharging at all
You need to use an accurate and reliable volt meter otherwise you'll waste your precious time in a severe coldness. If any good reference were not available, it would be an idea to check the battery voltage when the engine is off and on. It usually goes up about 15% when on.
What a weird day, but I think I've fixed my car! This morning on the way to work, car fired up just fine, stopped for a coffee and got back in, 100% dead. Steering wheel dropped halfway and then everything died. Popped hood, found the positive battery cable finger tight. Tightened it up enough to get me to work, came home and grabbed my tools, fixed up the positive cable and fired the car up. Noticed now that the hood is open I can hear a gnarly vacuum leak. Found 2 lines disconnected (circled in attached image) no idea how/why. But as soon as they where connected it idled up, headlights/blower motor now operating at full rpm at idle. Weather or not this will fix my trac causing the blower to still cut is unknown as it really warmed up today and all our snow has melted.
02-18-20 | 05:58 PM
93 LS400 traction control causing blower motor to cut
