kambam3627

2000 new rack and pin installed today, brand new inner and outer t rods on both sides, no leaks from rack thus far, still have a horrible moan when turning the wheel at a stand still, driving has improved, but I’m still getting a shaking wheel on it, and on breaking still. Other than the new rack I’ve done new struts, the LCA seems alright, strut rod bushings are the only thing shot, the car was aligned on a hunter machine, but the tires haven’t been balanced. Please someone give me some suggestions.

400fanboy

Sounds like you have two separate problems, but we really need more information from you. Let me break down what you already gave us.

I think you just answered your own question there. Here are some common strut rod symptoms:

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It can also cause a slight vibration when going 60-65 mph or a shimmy under light braking from highway speeds that will be felt in the steering wheel instead of in the pedal like warped rotors normally would. Idle down the road at 5mph and slam on the brakes, if you get a "clunk", it's probably the strut rods.
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This may be the cause of your "vibration". Another piece that solved a lot of my own issues was the lower ball joints, at 135k mine were completely shot. They passed visual inspection, but after replacing them I got the Lexus "glide" back which had been lost.



Electrical moan from a over-worked or failing power steering? Or Mechanical moan from a worn bushing.

kambam3627

yes strut rod is obvious, but I’m more concerned about the moaning, and it sounds like there’s no fluid in the pump and it’s turning air.

kambam3627

GREAT now my steering came undone, the wheel just turns infinity and I can’t do ****, luckily I didn’t crash. We did this at school in my class with my “ase certified “ instructor and I can’t be more PO. My tie rods didn’t come loose which is what I originally thought but nope it’s the steering gear I believe. I remember reading on this thread it has to be specific but he said we just put it on where it came off.

kambam3627

The linkage under the dash is moveable, I think it either disconnected or broke, gonna put the car on Ramps and will see, but it’s not grabbing either at the rack or the linkages between the dash and rack

kambam3627

These links came apart, they aren’t broken, I’m confused on how I’m supposed to get them to lock into place, Will update thread. Can’t find anything on this repair

deanshark

Wow, sorry to hear this. You're very lucky there wasn't an accident.
So much for an "ASE certified" instructor. Most "certified" mechanics nowadays only know how to plug in the computer to see what's wrong with a car. They don't teach them how to diagnose a "mechanical" problem and turn a wrench.
Ooops had to edit cuz you posted while I was typing.
I did find one of Yodaone's threads that shows the column out of the car so you can see the whole thing. Also shows part numbers.
Don't know if it will help you or not but here it is. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/869822-identifying-steering-column-and-shaft-clunk.html

kambam3627

thank you dean

kambam3627

I greased it up and reassembled the links, the key is to get over ONE of the notches, the second is a safety catch I’m assuming. After greasing and hammering it back in i reassembled the whole column, the hard part was lining it up to the steering column, but basically once it lines up you reconnect the bolt to the column, giving you turning ability again, I made it home, I feel a little uneasy driving at high speeds but let’s pray

deanshark

Yea I would too. Hope it works out for ya. It just looks weird how it came apart and not be broken.

kambam3627

Now leaking fluid..... when I went to work she was fine, now this. This is my last Lexus😒

it is dripping from the high pressure lines, we didn’t cross thread when installing and the washers were in good shape so not sure why that’s happening when it didn’t at all yesterday.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

sorry to read all the frustrations. did you replace the gaskets/O-rings when the lines were reinstalled? also they don't need to be superman tight, just enough within torque specs.
I found that it took time to get all the air out of the system where the PS started to become quiet again. a leak will cause more air to enter creating an endless cycle, so of course that needs to be addressed first. then a few lock-to-lock turns of the wheel will cause fluid to move through and vacate any leftover air.

also be sure to use DEXIII ATF fluid in the PS system. as for the steering column, I don't have much input as I never had to take mine apart. do you have a factory service manual?

kambam3627

The wheel won’t even 1 rotation to the right, what would be the cause of this?????
I get 1.5 rotations to the left before it bottoms out, but I can’t even turn it half a turn right.

JohnAndic

When you re-assembled the links maybe something was done wrong and in driving it broke something else. I feel so bad for you man. My car is healing itself and you keep running into disasters.

kambam3627

Broke plastic rubbing against the ribbon not allowing a full right turn.

The cable that controls the electronics, which is what keeps you from over steering as well.