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Raising Motor of UCF10

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Old 03-14-20 | 11:50 PM
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Default Raising Motor of UCF10

I am currently driving a 92 LS that is pretty low. I would go lower but I am worried about my oil pan; the roads in MN are ****. So does anyone on here have any info about the best way to raise the motor or get a shallower pan? Any help or advise would be appreciated...
Old 03-15-20 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ScrapinLS4
I am currently driving a 92 LS that is pretty low. I would go lower but I am worried about my oil pan; the roads in MN are ****. So does anyone on here have any info about the best way to raise the motor or get a shallower pan? Any help or advise would be appreciated...
Do not "raise the motor".

For ground clearance, go with a dry sump system


Old 03-15-20 | 11:31 AM
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A shorter pan could cause aeration of the oil if you run the recommended amount. That'll cause more issues than what it's worth.

Yoda, dry sump is a great idea but that can get pricey and requires some knowledge.

Here are some spacers: https://www.daytonone.com/shop.html#...egory=23514037
Old 03-15-20 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteUCF
A shorter pan could cause aeration of the oil if you run the recommended amount. That'll cause more issues than what it's worth.

Yoda, dry sump is a great idea but that can get pricey and requires some knowledge.

Here are some spacers: https://www.daytonone.com/shop.html#...egory=23514037
If clearance between engine and ground is the objectove, then a dry sump.oil pan system or an adjustable air suspension system provides additional clearance.

OP does not say unwilling to spend money.

Spacers under the engine mounts and transmission will place driveshaft angle way out of spec.

Any plan for spacing the differential..and how will that effect half shaft angles?

Ls400 two-piece driveshafts are not equipped with u-joints on the ends so angle is critical.......and there is a center bearing that must be taken into account.

Either install a dry sump system or consider raising the car to achieve necessary clearance




Last edited by YODAONE; 03-15-20 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 03-15-20 | 05:26 PM
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Yoda, you're right when it comes to the pinion angle being off. I have a feeling that isn't much of a concern though. I'm sure his axles aren't anywhere close to being at a proper angle either.

If money wasn't an object, bags would be optimal. Dry sump isn't as easily done as air bags, though, it would be awesome to see!

I live in Virginia, close enough to small towns to still have small town roads that aren't well maintained. My car is fairly low and I've never hit the oil pan on anything. Granted, there are plenty of roads around that I just avoid.

Last edited by WhiteUCF; 03-15-20 at 05:55 PM.
Old 03-15-20 | 11:41 PM
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Oh money is definitely an object, I’m a broke *** college kid 😂 but I would avoid bags even if I had the money. I wanna be static bc **** bags

The angles of my axles and tie rods and **** like that are all already off bc apparently Lexus didn’t plan on their cars being dumped. That being said I do plan on raising the diff or at least I should, but I haven’t really planned that out yet. My main concern atm was the pan.

How hard/expensive are we talking for a dry sump system bc honestly I haven’t heard much about them

thanks for all the info guys!
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Old 03-15-20 | 11:48 PM
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Your muffler is already like 1inch from the ground. I don't know jack but I doubt you can get it much lower on the cheap. looks pretty sweet though. i like the commitment to riding low.
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Old 03-15-20 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnAndic
Your muffler is already like 1inch from the ground. I don't know jack but I doubt you can get it much lower on the cheap. looks pretty sweet though. i like the commitment to riding low.
Oh yeah, my muffler scrapes constantly like I can't fit a hand under it lol. I gotta cut it out and moc up a custom exhaust, thats actually what I am going to be doing this week since my spring break just became a few weeks longer.

I don't really plan on going lower, I just would rather be safe than sorry when it comes to blowing a pan. I don't wanna deal with a blown pan, that just doesn't sound the slightest bit enjoyable.
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Old 03-16-20 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ScrapinLS4
How hard/expensive are we talking for a dry sump system bc honestly I haven’t heard much about them
It's a belt driven pump with an external reservoir to hold the oil. I meant to look into it for the 1uz last night but fell asleep. It's usually not cheap and not exactly a simple bolt-on affair. You'd be looking at something around $4,000 to go dry sump if you could do the work yourself. It's roughly $2300 for the pan and pump bracket from XAT. You need a pump, -an fittings, stainless hoses, reservoir, custom brackets for the reservoir. You'd also most likely have to remove the ac compressor for the pump to fit without removing power steering. So, no ac..

I'm not quite as low as you are but I've never hit my pan on anything. I've been down some sketchy roads out in nowhere Virginia and all that's happened is my upper control arms occasionally hit the strut tower. My pan looks like new.

Last edited by WhiteUCF; 03-16-20 at 09:16 AM.
Old 03-16-20 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteUCF
It's a belt driven pump with an external reservoir to hold the oil. I meant to look into it for the 1uz last night but fell asleep. It's usually not cheap and not exactly a simple bolt-on affair. You'd be looking at something around $4,000 to go dry sump if you could do the work yourself. It's roughly $2300 for the pan and pump bracket from XAT. You need a pump, -an fittings, stainless hoses, reservoir, custom brackets for the reservoir. You'd also most likely have to remove the ac compressor for the pump to fit without removing power steering. So, no ac..

I'm not quite as low as you are but I've never hit my pan on anything. I've been down some sketchy roads out in nowhere Virginia and all that's happened is my upper control arms occasionally hit the strut tower. My pan looks like new.

that sounds like it’s a lot more effort and money than it’s worth, lol. My control arms smacked the tower all the time, the best way to fix that is to take a hole bit and cut a lil circle for the control arm to go past the fender.

also you drive a good lookin LS!
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Old 03-16-20 | 12:22 PM
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I have the dayton one engine and transmission spacers on my ucf20 and haven't noticed any issues with them. I'm not sure critical the driveshaft angle is because I also replaced my transmission mount at the same time and it was compressed a lot compared to the new one, so I'm sure my driveshaft angle was off for some time already because of the worn mount.
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