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1UZ-FE, 2UZ-FE and 3UZ-FE use drain ***** on each side of the block.
Opening and closing to drain engine coolant is enough of a challenge, but removing drain clock assembly to replace or reseal threads is brutal with engine in chassis.
There is simply no room or angle to wrench
(not something you want to snap off in the block by attempting to wrench it) , and a socket, would work, but does not clear the spigot.
Taking a cue from my slotted oxygen sensor socket, decided to fabricate a tool using a 6 point (not 12 point) 17mm deep well socket.
It worked well.
Several images.
Toyota P.N. for "****, Drain"
Another camera angle Old drain **** next to fabricated socket. Courtesy of H.R. Slater Co. , Chicago
I just snapped off the valve on mine trying to drain it. I really like your idea, I guess I'll try to make a tool like this. I wonder if the valve will leak with the head snapped off? Appreciate any tips on this one. I don't want to make things worse.
Same concept as the oxygen sensor socket but the slot doesn't need to be as deep to accommodate the wires. Great tool. Btw, why do you need to remove the drain plug(s)? If it isn't leaking or damaged & in need of fixing then to drain the coolant from the block, it's much easier to remove the lower radiator hose as it's sitting lower than these drain plugs. Why take a chance of creating unnecessary work?
I just snapped off the valve on mine trying to drain it. I really like your idea, I guess I'll try to make a tool like this. I wonder if the valve will leak with the head snapped off? Appreciate any tips on this one. I don't want to make things worse.
If only the nipple snapped off then you s/b fine. Just make sure it isn't leaking though.
Got it out using this custom socket idea. Mine is not so pretty but did the job.Thanks so much yodaone!
I'm doing my TB and wanted to drain the extra coolant from the block. Since the radiator and water pump already came out I only got a little more than one quart extra in total out of the block drains.
I know this is extremely unorthodox but would this work? It's a slotted 17mm paired with a 1/4" hex female with a 1/2" drive to make it compatible with a ratchet