400fanboy

Load testing simulates it being used in the real world (aka starting the car). If it passes their test, then yeah it's probably producing enough CCA's to start it in the summer in Texas. Move on down the list of things. Cables & connections (unlikely), then the starer motor.

I really thought the battery was it, given what the car's been through over the last few months. I guess not - onward!

Sherl

I still suspect it's my starter. There as no signs of failing atmost had some instances where I need to crank twice. I'll get it load tested again before I call it a day.

400fanboy

Sadly I think that's now the most likely problem at this point. Again - double check the wires but it's unlikely they've gone bad. Not common for them to do so.

Others in this thread have given good tips of how to approach the starter motor.

Sherl

It appears to be my battery went bad during the process and I got a new battery into the LS400 but still same sign. It clicks/the relay but nothing from the starter. But still curious why does the battery goes down during this process even though the starter doesnt crank. Like it was 12.47v before the first try and it went to 12.1v, 11.5v during each subsequent tries. It never came back to 12.5+ after that.

JohnAndic

This is exactly what my 98 was doing before I had the starter changed out. Why does it kill the battery? Not sure. If you changed the starter the old battery might have come back to life after driving for a while. but if you don't change the starter your new battery will also get drained I would suspect.

Sherl

Does the battery voltage read 12.xV in OBD port when the keys in ON position? I checked on the post, it was 12.14v for my new battery but the OBD port reads 11V.
I want to be sure before I start tearing the engine.

JohnAndic

It should be around 12V yea. 11V is too low. 11.9 would be fine but 11V would suggest to me that your starter is draining your new battery.

Sherl

Duplicate post

Sherl

What starter did you get for yours? Is that Denso reman in Amazon good?

Sherl

Also just found out that 'loud click' is from under the intake and also strangely I can hear a loud buzz (winning noise) from the same place after the 'loud click' and persists for some time even after removing the key.

JohnAndic

Yea mine was making the wining noise also. I think its from the alternator trying to put out enough power to get the starter to work, that is simply my guess though.

I didn't get a re-manufactured one. I am not sure but I think it was DURA-LAST.

Yamae

A loud buzz noise from the starter is usually caused by the quick ON/OFF switching of the solenoid. It should be kept ON while the ignition key is turned ON. But when there is a big voltage drop, it turns off. Then the voltage recovers and the solenoid works again. The repetition of this causes the buzzing sound because the solenoid works as if a buzzer. This is caused by different reasons and a layer short of starter motor's winding is one reason. A weak battery or a worn battery terminal is another reason. I worry that your starter motor's winding is short circuited. It can be confirmed by the voltage drop using an oscilloscope at the battery terminal. Sometimes a locked starter motor or a locked engine causes the problem too.

mikaelse

Could be that the battery have had some damage. Have someone check how much the voltage is when engaging the starter directly on battery poles. A sound charged battery should never go under 11 V in warm weather when starter runs. Internal reistance and/or a cell with problems could be culprit. If you have that problem I expect you will see 9 V or even lower.

Sherl

It's a brand new battery with 12.14v between posts. What's next? 740CCA

mikaelse

12.14 no load is about 55 % charge at room temperature. Should work just fine in California if battery is OK otherwize. 740A CCA is good.
(Well below the recommended 12.3 V minimum and 70% charge where battery aging accelerates though.)
It is uncommon to kill a battery with one full discharge if it is not left for days but it can loose some of its stamina.
There is probably something else conrtributing like a bad connection to the battery or Starter problem as others have indicated.
If you have a good charger like CTEK ( 60US$ or so ) or simmilar there is often a "recondition button" that helps to mend some of the drain damage.