Losiracer2

So I'm trying to do my Rear Upper control arms. In that process, you have to remove the axles on either side to give clearance for the ball joint nut.

I got the 6 allen bolts off and the axle nut off. The hub side of the axle is also free, but I can't for the life of me get the differential side free. Is there a trick to removing it once those 6 bolts are off?

I'm worried there's so much corrosion that its welded on there? I hit it a couple times with a 4lb sledge hammer and couldn't budge it. Also tried to use a block of wood and a jack in which i almost dropped the car on me and it just lifted the car. I soaked it with penetrating oil and left it overnight for a try tomorrow.

Does an auto parts store have a tool that gives you leverage to get that inboard differential side free? I'm thinking something that goes around the axle circumference but is solid that I can hit with my hammer to break it free? I'm imagining something like a connecting rod shape with a long arm that holds against the CV that I can hit.

YODAONE

Is there a retaining clip inside the differential.that requires removal?

Perhaps you obtain a shop manual.

Striker223

Nope, you basically summarized what happened well. You need to slowly convince it to break free, I've only ever had to deal with that style rusted that badly twice before on a abused Jeep and I solved it by using a very small chisel at the base of the flange until I was able to increase the size enough to wedge a pry in and force the shaft out.

Its going to be very hard and annoying, aim right below (closer to the diff) the barcode sticker and alternate 180 degrees from your first chisel zone to try and get it to walk and rock. If you can get it to do that throw as much penetrating oil as you can to try and speed up the process

paulo57509

It appears from the manual diagram that the axle hub fits into the side gear hub. Squirt penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster) around the circumference here:



Let it work for a while and apply more. Take a small hammer and a brass drift and hit the axle hub to set up some vibration. Hopefully, this will be enough to break it free.

Losiracer2

Update! I was able to break it free! I used literally a half can of the PB blaster penetrating oil on both the Axle flanges, to the point where the metal was soaking it up.

The next morning, it was still on there, I tried using a chisel that I had to hit at 4 spots around the circumference. After that didn't work, I got fed up and kept hitting it harder and harder without worrying about damaging any of the other flanges because I figured if its that hard, it'll need replacement anyways right? BUT IT WORKED! no satisfying CRAAAACK or anything, but just dropped a bit off the flange.

The PB penetrating oil helped for sure, so if anyone else has this situation, spray LIBERALLY on the axle end and flange, to the point of it dripping down in a pool on the floor and then let time take its course overnight.

I did the Driver side flange the following day without having to add any additional PB blaster. It came out in about 5 min of trying with harder whacks.

I got the pass side control arm off and done, now just have to do the driver side. But the hardest part is complete, the 2 upper arm bolts (torqued to 121 ft-lbs initially, probably now 300+ with corrosion) and 6 differential hex bolts broken free. I nearly stripped 2 of them on the pass. side so i'm going to the dealer now to get those picked up.

YODAONE

Onr thing I have noticed with OEM replacement suspension parts is the black paint does not resist rust very long...

Toyota did a great job on chassis/body paint, but the coatings used on (rear).subrames and suspension components and fasteners are not nearly as durable.

Consider having yours powder coated.

The open frame stamped rear upper control arms may respond well to "boxing" to reduce flex and increase rigidity...not the entire control arm, but selectively, because that would add too much weight.

Professional production avoids problems.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...er-braces.html

Striker223

Agreed here, the 430 and later have much better paints and are most alum but my project car received powder coat on many parts since dodge doesn't understand what corrosion is

Losiracer2

Oh I won't have to worry about rust anymore! I'm moving back to AZ in 8 days for good and getting the hell away from Michigan lol. No more salt and corrosion for me. Land of the everlasting cars. I just need to worry about my paint and interior now haha.

But I'm really impressed how exacting the specification of the same control arm are, 20+ years later. The ball joint and boot even had the same markings and rubber structure, came pregreased at the point of meeting the carrier so as not to prematurely rip the boot catching on any dry spots. My car after assembling and going for a little drive felt way tighter in the rear and I felt a lot less driveline loss for power delivery likely due to the new bushings not flexing.

Right now, I'm in so much pain from having to break free those UCA bolts, I need to take a break for a bit. My entire right forearm is bruised from me slipping on the first bolt and smacking it against the fender at full strength, so it'll take some time to work away. And I beat up my right hand ring finger nail when my 3/8th air ratchet wedged it against the control arm while tightening the differential bolts without being cautious. So I'm battered and bruised but the job is done after 3 days of hard work, I'm a bit proud of myself for not screwing anything bearing related up also. Because that job I imagine would be a nightmare I'd never want to do anytime soon.