Bonester

So finally going to get the LS on the road. Have a few questions on some issues. I picked up a key fob off ebay. I can't get it to program. LS is a 96. Was thinking maybe I got the wrong one? The one I picked up says canada and fcc id ; HYQWDT C..
Also I noticed my drivers door does not lock or unlock like all the rest of the doors. Maybe that has something to do with the problem. Also debating wether I should do the timing belt. Runs good and smooth. Belt looks good but who knows. What kit is the best ?? Also the car is very quiet inside except this slight tapping noise, almost sounds like bubbles directly under the shifter. I'm sure it's the transmission. Transmission shifts good. Going to be doing a filter and screens replacement. Another thing that recently developed is a bad vibration at idle when revved up aeound 2000 rpm. I can feel the vibration right under the console like right at the rear of trans. Maybe trans mount. Any info and feedback appreciated.

jaaa

You'll never get into program mode if any of the door locks don't work. You'll have to fix that first. I'd check out the transmission mount, they are notorious for going out. Only cost around $45 for OEM too.

Yamae

The most inexpensive way to fix the door lock/unlock problem will be just to clean the inside of the motor if brushes and the Positor inside are still OK. The most expensive way would be to replace the actuator unit asking a dealer to do it.

400fanboy

Your engine is an interference engine, so if the timing belt snaps, it will grenade the whole engine. I would hope there are records from the previous owner on when the belt was last done - hopefully the previous service wrote the date on the engine cover. It's a 6-year, 90k mile belt.

Tapping noise could just be interior rattles; unclear. I'm not sure on that one.

Neutral 2000rpm vibration is engine mounts, the transmission is completely disconnected and won't be spinning to produce vibrations. These are fairly expensive to replace, both in parts and labor. May as well do the transmission mount while you're there, it's pretty cheap and takes 10 seconds to replace. I had my shop replace all 3 mounts (2 engine, 1 transmission), 2 hours of labor + I think about $350 in OEM parts.

I had the same vibration, nasty shaking when you rev the engine at all while in neutral. One of my engine mounts was completely cracked. And it was a night\day difference while driving. You might not notice it right now, but there will be driveline vibration that will vanish and the car will effortlessly glide down the road even better than it does now. Also, if your mounts are particularly bad, there may be a slight amount of driveline slop. I noticed this in my car when I was waiting at a red light, got off the brake, and got onto the gas. It felt like it took a split second longer to actually deliever the power to the road once the engine revs increased. It felt like the power "kicked" in instead of smoothly engaging like it does after I replaced all the mounts.

Thomasin

Hi, I think the key fob is unlikely to be the culprit for the failure of the driver door. If I understand correctly, all other doors can lock and unlock but not the driver door. Replacement of the door actuator should solve the problem. However, there is a cheaper way to get around. Some awesome members in the LS 430 forums have discovered that the repair could be as cheap as a few dollars. All you have to do is to replace the motor instead of the entire actuator (~$650 at dealership tax incl). Below is the link (but it is not too useful to someone like me who does not wrench my own car)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...or-repair.html

As far as I know, programming of the fobs can only be done at the dealership which can cost you hundreds. As for the timing belt issue, how many miles do your car have until its wheels? Lexus recommends the replacement of timing belt for every 90k miles. As a side note, you may as well to replace the water pump too if you decide to replace the timing belt because both tasks require the exposure of the engine. In this way, it can save you hundreds of dollars of labour (doing once vs doing twice). Do you have any information from the driver's site regarding what has been fixed by the previous owners?

Bonester

So upon further inspection of my t-belt I found the belt is unravelling and you can see the steel on the sides of the belt. So looks like I'm going in and doing a full tune up!!! Also made some progress with the key fob but not quite. I did the program procedure again but this time I just manually flicked the unlock/lock tab instead of pushing the button and I got it to go into programming mode but when I push the fob nothing happens. I opened up the fob and didn't see anything unusual. Maybe I need the other fcc id? So which kit is the preferred kit ? Also what other parts should I swap while in their?

Bonester

What do you guys think about this kit. Seems like the one? http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...84981000&ver=0

mikaelse

Seeing reinforcement wires/fibers at belt edge is not uncommon. I think your belt looks pretty new. The index mark markings with paint tend to wear off or look worne on the back of the belt since three rollers wear on the back side, Two idlers and the water pump roll there. May depend on belt make. Yours could be pretty new?. A few years?. Hard to tell but Well worth trying to find out when it was exchanged.
It is a many hours job. I have done it myself twice.
I Used the AISIN kit from Rockauto and others. Mitsuboshi belt.