Superfast1

Yes, it's very do-able. Come up w/ one that's similar to the shield that they use to cover the bottom of the water heater's opening for the pilot light & flame but get a thinner sheet metal so you can easily cut it w/ a strong scissor & bend it into shape.

spuds

Tin snips,drill,hammer and coffee cans should get me started.I can dig around for other metal laying around too.Wife has a flattened unrolled coffee can sitting under a block right now she is making for a barn wall fix it project,just might snag it.Or not.Plus I can hammer away molding it around the old alt ears or whatever as needed,dont have to worry about breaking it.I'll pick up some steel weld epoxy tomorrow,Used that to fix a broken threaded tab on an aircooled VW head,worked great so know it will stand up to any heat there as I fabricate the cover.

This will be fun.

Superfast1

In regards to the valve, Lexus' engineers had over designed that function so it's your choice. I deleted mine 6 years ago & it works perfectly fine without the valve even at low speed & standing still while turning the steering wheel but the reason I did it was because mine failed after 16 years. If yours is still original & high mileage then you're on borrow time so you have the option to either replace it now (It's high pressure so go w/ the OEM valve. Trust me on this) while everything is out in the open or delete it so you won't have to worry down the road. If you opt to delete then make sure you cap the output port at the pump where the valve screwed into & also the input port at the plenum/upper intake manifold. There are plenty of "How to Delete" instructions here on this forum. Just do a quick search if you don't know how.

spuds

If no drivability issues I will consider it,i have no clue how old it is.Yes,i have the how to's marked.If I make a decent cover might save that project for a later day.Thanks Superfast1.

spuds

i got a metal shield made up and test fitted,still doing some dolling up and reinforcing but I think you all will approve.Prelim pics....Ignore the zip ties,they are there for fabrication.

Im going to cover these vents by pully on top with a little metal yet,they can breathe forward.The cover only sits on a couple spots on the alternator.The white plastic piece there is to both protect that main power bolt and add a little extra grease cover.


3 oclock is the ear it will bolt on.Hole is now drilled.In the real world installed that will be at 12 oclock.Going to do some reinforcing with high temp steel weld epoxy putty.


Now on the back the cover extends about 1.5 inches maybe? Im thinking I might add a ring that sticks out about 1 inch from the back plastic part from a bleach bottle and high temp silicone that into place,entire back opening will still be open.Or do you think the overhang is sufficient there,I kinda like the ring idea.Did that make sense?


The 7 oclock bolt hole in this pic is 12 oclock installed.

Superfast1

As stated, if you really want to use the shield then you need to elevate it from the alternator. Wrapping the alternator w/ the shield the way you showed will trap heat & cause your alternator to run hotter which in turn will shorten the life of it. If you can't raise the shield then you're better off without it.

spuds

OK,Im done.The epoxy weld made it nice and sturdy,the shell is strong,zip ties are off and trimmed the edges round on the bolt.Its not going anywhere.Output bolt is protected.Its not going to overheat,airflow is very good regarding vent openings.It actually looks much better in person,camera and I just arent a team on that.In real life it looks crinkly chrome.

Like you say,probably dont even need it.If it ever does this should give pretty good protection.I need to get this car done.Wife needs to get down the hill to the stores and Jeepster wont do it for her.



Theres only a couple tiny spots actually touching the alternator body,there is space between it and body.MAYBE 20% is shielded.Its less than 1/4th.There is no more room between the PS pump and the alt,thats a real tight fit,and there is no more room to mount it higher on the top. It will be just fine.The shield can dissipate heat just as well as alternator body does.These alts have so many airflow vents its ridiculous.

spuds

I think Im way ahead on cooling than the bleach bottle method that folks use successfully,see this thread

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...lternator.html

spuds

Here is a much better shot showing how little cover is there.And its off the alt body.So have faith Superfast1,it came out pretty awesome.


This is about the orientation installed,camera angle here makes it look like more cover than there is,im NOT a good camera man.


Good day.I got the alt conversion on,the idler pulley and PS pulley and belt on.That took me 2 hours and finished me off.Im no speed demon anymore. Young people would have blasted thru it.

The front is now buttoned up,YAY!

Just the PS reservoir,bleed it,radiator and hoses and intake plastic doodads to finish,its getting close.I reinforced that overflow like doodad on rad with epoxy,I think they may have changed the design,i will get pics of both.

spuds

OK,on to the radiator.Probably just as well the outlet broke off,it needed to be changed.The outlets look unchanged old to new.
Broken




New rad where Im reinforcing with epoxy in this area.Maybe hold up better,gets really brittle at outlet area,another game I dont want to play again.


Shroud tab found on radiator,now epoxied back on shroud.I am the King of Epoxy,I live on that stuff.

Superfast1

Now that I see how small the shield is, I think you're ok. What I've been warning you about thermal dissipation is because when the car is running, the alternator (not the battery) is the main source of energy that's used to provide power to the entire car's electrical system. At the same time, it's also used to charge the battery so by definition, it dissipates a lot of heat that's why the entire alternator's housing is made out of die-cast aluminum full of holes. Those holes are vents & are designed to let the heat out so when you covered it w/ the insulated tape or wrap/enclose it w/ the sheet metal without giving it some air gap will causes it to run hotter thus defeat the purpose of what you're trying to save. It s/b fine being that small.

Superfast1

When you're ready to fill the ps, just lift both front wheels off the ground & there's no need to turn on the car. Next, plug/cover the reservoir's return port w/ some plastic by using a rubber band & hook up a long hose to the return line & run it into a pan to collect the old ps fluid from the system. Once set up, have a helper i.e. your wife turns the steering wheel all the way from 1 end to the other while you fill the reservoir w/ fresh fluid. Once you see fresh fluid coming out to the pan, stop & connect the return line to the reservoir. Start the car & keep turning the steering wheel just like before for another 30, 40 times. This is to purge any air that you may have in the system. Observe the fluid in the reservoir & fill it as needed while turning the steering wheel, when you no longer see any bubbles then you're done. Good luck.

Yamae

Denso SC alternators have an advanced temperature compensation function and when the alternator is warmed up more than the design limit, the generating voltage becomes very low. This is to prevent the damage to the alternator. The covering up too much may cause this problem and your battery will be not charged well enough. The alternator will not be damaged easily but you may have a battery's undercharge problem.

spuds

Ha,we think alike,wheels already off the ground.Thats just the method I was going to use on the PS fluid,saw one where a guy ran almost a gallon thru to completely flush it.I have the correct ATF to run thru it.

EDIT-Actually Im NOT happy with the synthetic Valvoline fluid.There is still a very slight buzzing and even my stinky brown Dexron II or III mineral ATF did a better job.I couldnt find Dexron III locally so find out the plain Toyota ATF is dexron III.So go to Toyota,he doesnt have it,we use STP,and they dont make Dexron III any more.So show him Toyota part number,he looks it up,Oh,they do make it but we dont carry it.So get him to check other places,one has like 66 qts of the stuff.Wound up just ordering 4 qts off ebay and cheaper delivered than Toyota.Will get that changed,it wants dexron III and thats what it will get.

As for the wife she doesnt really understand what a big help she has been as the go-fer.Been a great team member on this.Though working with my nephews as a tag team event and their incredibly nice battery powered tools is super awesome for sure!Can knock these projects out fast.Been working on cars with them since they were little boys.Now 1 was a car mechanic and now a warehouse mechanic at UPS,another is a jack of all trades and an electrician and the 3rd restores motorcycles on the side,pro quality,we love our little hondas as #1 favs.We have a lot of VW's and jeeps under our belts. But as is life,Im 30 miles away and they have lives so not on this project unfortunately.

Now as I wake up (0830 here,my research time as coffee gets in and weather warms,nice by 10 AM here now) I need to find some pics of the block drainplugs on the coolant.I have 2 gallons of toyota red ready to mix with distilled water 50-50.Hopefully I can get a couple 2 gallon buckets under there to drain it,no idea as I havent seen what the plugs and location are,but it fit under car earlier.

Dang I want the manuals....

The end is in sight....waaaaay OT,the 5 new hens have started laying eggs...

spuds

Thanks Yamae,good info.We are going to find out and we will all know if its good or not. I'll seriously load it up and find out.Its just 3 nuts and a bolt to pull it and PS pulley if it has any issues,easy peasy. Sure like Denso parts!