98-00 Radiator,alternator,tensioner,power steering pump replacement
#61
Unfortunately it is typically the Aluminum thread that strips. I also did that misstake. The bolt needed a big breaker bar to "come loose" the wrong way. Really embarrasing. I scrapped it. I paid 50$ for a aftermarket tensioner for my 1995. It did not fit perfect seems made for a later model OR something of that nature . I had to file off a small lip to make it fit well. Not difficult. This was in 2015 and stil running good.
#62
Racer
Thread Starter
Crazy.this whole project that should have been a few hour job has now been many DAYS because I turned ONE BOLT in the wrong direction and had to take the front of the motor apart to fix the part I broke.CRAZY!
So now I know my limit,its 2 hours and a day off in between,such is life. Great day today .
Got PS reservoir on,used 9.5 mm for the return hose.Will need to get that main hose done tomorrow,parts store closed early so missed it.Its hard though,it has to go.Did more engine bay cleaning,almost have that done.
Used the same 9.5mm on the radiator outlet.Radiator in place.Next session will be rad hoses,and drain and fill.Also bleed PS fluid.After that just the plastic parts.
Looks like an engine now.
Mrs did a nice job with Ivory soap and water on plastic parts.Will treat those parts with 303 protectorant.I did the air cleaner with brake clean on a rag,no spray around the MAF sensor,covered both ends with microfiber towels,not getting anything near that,looks great.Will also wipe that with 303.
So now I know my limit,its 2 hours and a day off in between,such is life. Great day today .
Got PS reservoir on,used 9.5 mm for the return hose.Will need to get that main hose done tomorrow,parts store closed early so missed it.Its hard though,it has to go.Did more engine bay cleaning,almost have that done.
Used the same 9.5mm on the radiator outlet.Radiator in place.Next session will be rad hoses,and drain and fill.Also bleed PS fluid.After that just the plastic parts.
Looks like an engine now.
Mrs did a nice job with Ivory soap and water on plastic parts.Will treat those parts with 303 protectorant.I did the air cleaner with brake clean on a rag,no spray around the MAF sensor,covered both ends with microfiber towels,not getting anything near that,looks great.Will also wipe that with 303.
#63
Racer
Thread Starter
#64
Racer
Thread Starter
Ready for fluids tomorrow.But a question too.
Now this is the burp hole at 1 oclock,correct?(Edit-NOPE! Thank you bradland!) I dont want to foul it up,its a normal thread,unscrew it and I can add the fresh fluid thru that hole,correct? Car is in a nose up orientation at this point.Also picked up wobbly extensions and u- joint unions so reaching block plugs will be easily done.Any secrets I need to know at this point?
And thank you all for all the help,I really appreciate it,
Now this is the burp hole at 1 oclock,correct?(Edit-NOPE! Thank you bradland!) I dont want to foul it up,its a normal thread,unscrew it and I can add the fresh fluid thru that hole,correct? Car is in a nose up orientation at this point.Also picked up wobbly extensions and u- joint unions so reaching block plugs will be easily done.Any secrets I need to know at this point?
And thank you all for all the help,I really appreciate it,
Last edited by spuds; 09-29-20 at 08:32 PM.
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Superfast1 (09-29-20)
#67
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you bradland! So glad i asked!
There is an outfit called TIS that has manuals online PDF for 20 dollars IIRC for 2 days and you can download it.When I have a full 2 days free going to hop on that and can quit asking so many questions.
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...at_is_tis_page
There is an outfit called TIS that has manuals online PDF for 20 dollars IIRC for 2 days and you can download it.When I have a full 2 days free going to hop on that and can quit asking so many questions.
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...at_is_tis_page
#68
Moderator
Thank you bradland! So glad i asked!
There is an outfit called TIS that has manuals online PDF for 20 dollars IIRC for 2 days and you can download it.When I have a full 2 days free going to hop on that and can quit asking so many questions.
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...at_is_tis_page
There is an outfit called TIS that has manuals online PDF for 20 dollars IIRC for 2 days and you can download it.When I have a full 2 days free going to hop on that and can quit asking so many questions.
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...at_is_tis_page
#69
Racer
Thread Starter
#71
Racer
Thread Starter
#72
Racer
Thread Starter
The power steering fluid started out brown,stinks burned smell.Got it flushed.Took about 1/3 of a gal of dexron/mercon valvoline ATF.Got all the coolant out,block plugs were pretty tight,then my 1/4 inch wobblies forcefully came apart in 4 different directions when plug bolt came loose and lost the 10 mm.My 3/8ths 10mm was 3 inches short on extensions,finally found another extension,then found another 10mm 1/4 drive and immediately found the the missing 10mm.Sheesh.
Dirty job,2 gals of coolant fluid out.Tomorrow mix the fluid and put in and add the intake boxes and she should run.
I'll update later with pics and better explanation on what I did today.
Dirty job,2 gals of coolant fluid out.Tomorrow mix the fluid and put in and add the intake boxes and she should run.
I'll update later with pics and better explanation on what I did today.
#73
Racer
Thread Starter
OK,the PS fluid.Car tires,front, about an inch off the ground.
1=reservoir return line plugged off
2=PS fluid return line now going to a bleach bottle under car.Note to right of bleach bottle is a 2.5 gallon bucket draining coolant from drivers side.
Now with car not running your assistant turns wheels lock to lock and you fill reservoir and it gently pumps out the old ATF fluid to bottle.When its clear I cut the return line at the 2 mark and attached that to the reservoir.Then its just turn wheels and add ATF to correct cold level.You are done for now,may need topping off later.
OK,on to draining old coolant.I used a 1/4 inch drive with a 10 mm socket.You may read you need wobble extension or ujoint connector,you dont.Its a straight shot.There is one on each side at back of block.This is passenger side.Mine were on pretty darn tight.If you have kids a small hand would fit to the drain part to add a drain hose,but I didnt and it was a pain to try to get a tight hose on so I just let it drain slowly to not make a mess.A 2.5 gallon bucket will work just fine to drain the fluid,I did not run the heater to drain that.
2-drain plug
1-10mm bolt you loosen to drain.When done its 9 ft/lbs torque.I just tightened by feel.
Thoughts on that.Its REAL nice having fresh clean fluids and future coolant changes will be a breeze with bolts that behave and arent stuck on real tight.Now take a shower and enjoy still smelling like old PS fluid,LOL.
MAYBE,finally I can add new coolant and plastic intakes tomorrow and be done but for more cleanup later.
1=reservoir return line plugged off
2=PS fluid return line now going to a bleach bottle under car.Note to right of bleach bottle is a 2.5 gallon bucket draining coolant from drivers side.
Now with car not running your assistant turns wheels lock to lock and you fill reservoir and it gently pumps out the old ATF fluid to bottle.When its clear I cut the return line at the 2 mark and attached that to the reservoir.Then its just turn wheels and add ATF to correct cold level.You are done for now,may need topping off later.
OK,on to draining old coolant.I used a 1/4 inch drive with a 10 mm socket.You may read you need wobble extension or ujoint connector,you dont.Its a straight shot.There is one on each side at back of block.This is passenger side.Mine were on pretty darn tight.If you have kids a small hand would fit to the drain part to add a drain hose,but I didnt and it was a pain to try to get a tight hose on so I just let it drain slowly to not make a mess.A 2.5 gallon bucket will work just fine to drain the fluid,I did not run the heater to drain that.
2-drain plug
1-10mm bolt you loosen to drain.When done its 9 ft/lbs torque.I just tightened by feel.
Thoughts on that.Its REAL nice having fresh clean fluids and future coolant changes will be a breeze with bolts that behave and arent stuck on real tight.Now take a shower and enjoy still smelling like old PS fluid,LOL.
MAYBE,finally I can add new coolant and plastic intakes tomorrow and be done but for more cleanup later.
Last edited by spuds; 09-30-20 at 10:30 PM.
#74
You may hear a loud grinding noise coming from the ps pump when you start the car. This is due to air still being trapped in the pump/system. It's normal & should go away immediately once the pump is running. Have your assistant continues to turn the steering wheel left & right while you observe & fill the reservoir w/ fresh fluid. When the air is completely purged from the system (no more bubbles) then you're done.
#75
Racer
Thread Starter
So far Im really impressed with that PS fluid flush method.That old fluid was terrible,yet the car made no noise and turned fine,just brown and stinky,gross stuff.I had air bubbles when I first started flushing,none since.Will be interesting when i start it and finish filling it to see the final results from that method,trapped air I wouldnt doubt.Sure seems like a winner.For the PS main hose,the large one from reservoir to pump I got power steering hose from carquest,new hoses sure look nice.I had to buy a 3 foot length.I want to say it was 5/8 inch,I will correct if thats wrong and will put all parts and costs in the last reply.
I have an extra toyota idler tensioner pulley I paid 78 dollars for,will sell for 40 dollars shipped if anyone is interested.Part number 16603-0W010
I have an extra toyota idler tensioner pulley I paid 78 dollars for,will sell for 40 dollars shipped if anyone is interested.Part number 16603-0W010
Last edited by spuds; 10-01-20 at 08:38 AM.