98-00 Radiator,alternator,tensioner,power steering pump replacement
10-01-20, 12:21 PM
#77
Racer
Thread Starter
Car FIXED,Started first turn of the key.Update tonight. 
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BNastee (01-24-24)
10-01-20, 12:39 PM
#78
Moderator
Great work Spuds! Your patience and persistence paid off!
Keep an eye on the entire PS system. I don't want to alarm you but hydraulic systems are notorious for developing new leaks after a known leak has been fixed. The fluid can sometimes find a new path of least resistance. Using the Genuine OE pump was a wise investment
Keep an eye on the entire PS system. I don't want to alarm you but hydraulic systems are notorious for developing new leaks after a known leak has been fixed. The fluid can sometimes find a new path of least resistance. Using the Genuine OE pump was a wise investment
10-01-20, 01:24 PM
#79
Racer
Thread Starter
Great work Spuds! Your patience and persistence paid off!
Keep an eye on the entire PS system. I don't want to alarm you but hydraulic systems are notorious for developing new leaks after a known leak has been fixed. The fluid can sometimes find a new path of least resistance. Using the Genuine OE pump was a wise investment
Keep an eye on the entire PS system. I don't want to alarm you but hydraulic systems are notorious for developing new leaks after a known leak has been fixed. The fluid can sometimes find a new path of least resistance. Using the Genuine OE pump was a wise investment
18 days,totally ridiculous.Plus its the largest repair Ive ever done on a computer car and computer cars terrify me.Thank goodness its a Lexus and was built right,no corners cut.
This evening it goes for a test drive to pick up some real authentic Mexican tacos for dinner as a reward.
Last edited by spuds; 10-01-20 at 01:32 PM.
10-01-20, 01:36 PM
#80
Racer
Thread Starter
10-01-20, 10:03 PM
#81
Racer
Thread Starter
I used Toyota Red coolant.I poured a gallon in the intake plug and a gallon of distilled water,50/50 mix.I was unable to run heater prior and as such when I went on test drive the infamous NO HEAT.Came home,opened plug again and it took about 1 qt. of coolant with heater on and engine running and then heater worked.I had to fill the radiator tank 3 times with a full heat up and cool down to siphon the coolant in.I would say I did use 11 qts,just like the manual said I would.
Leave cap off radiator tank as you add the fluid so it drains in better
Old air cleaner at 5,000 miles and 2 years was really dirty.Good filter quality IMO.Put in a new Toyota filter but as yodaone notes,the quality isnt as nice as the old,pleats certainly werent as nice.Bought on ebay,wonder if its a fake ?
Looks like a Lexus and runs like one again.Left top cover off to keep an eye on things for a few days
Leave cap off radiator tank as you add the fluid so it drains in better
Old air cleaner at 5,000 miles and 2 years was really dirty.Good filter quality IMO.Put in a new Toyota filter but as yodaone notes,the quality isnt as nice as the old,pleats certainly werent as nice.Bought on ebay,wonder if its a fake ?
Looks like a Lexus and runs like one again.Left top cover off to keep an eye on things for a few days
Last edited by spuds; 11-20-20 at 12:20 PM.
10-03-20, 05:33 AM
#82
Moderator
I used Toyota Red coolant.I poured a gallon in the intake plug and a gallon of distilled water,50/50 mix.I was unable to run heater prior and as such when I went on test drive the infamous NO HEAT.Came home,opened plug again and it took about 1 qt. of coolant and then heater worked.I had to fill the radiator tank 3 times with a full heat up and cool down to siphon the coolant in.I would say I did use 11 qts,just like the manual said I would.
Looks like a Lexus and runs like one again.Left top cover off to keep an eye on things for a few days
Looks like a Lexus and runs like one again.Left top cover off to keep an eye on things for a few days
10-03-20, 05:39 AM
#83
Racer
Thread Starter
You are reading my mind,Im reading those threads right now.There is a longer one that talks about the 8 passageways that I cant find and need more info on that,do you know where it is?It also had some drawings that dont make sense to me,are those 8 passages visible from the plate area? Any photos beside the one you posted with the 5 pictures. I do have the low idle and have had for a while.
Ah,here it is,thats you in post 37,I will read it all.But its just all clean via the 2 big holes,correct? Im reading that thread now....
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ls-eyes-3.html
And this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...w-ac-on-3.html
Ah,here it is,thats you in post 37,I will read it all.But its just all clean via the 2 big holes,correct? Im reading that thread now....
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ls-eyes-3.html
And this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...w-ac-on-3.html
Last edited by spuds; 10-03-20 at 06:08 AM.
10-03-20, 10:59 PM
#84
Racer
Thread Starter
Cool.Ordered the connector 90980-10736 for the ECT replacement.Mine has silicon holding it on.
Curious,does the air mix cover use JIS screws? I have em if it does.
I'll do those 2 jobs next week,think I have smog check this year but I live in a NON enhanced testing area,lucky me!
Curious,does the air mix cover use JIS screws? I have em if it does.
I'll do those 2 jobs next week,think I have smog check this year but I live in a NON enhanced testing area,lucky me!
Last edited by spuds; 10-03-20 at 11:05 PM.
10-04-20, 01:50 AM
#85
Moderator
You are reading my mind,Im reading those threads right now.There is a longer one that talks about the 8 passageways that I cant find and need more info on that,do you know where it is?It also had some drawings that dont make sense to me,are those 8 passages visible from the plate area? Any photos beside the one you posted with the 5 pictures. I do have the low idle and have had for a while.
Ah,here it is,thats you in post 37,I will read it all.But its just all clean via the 2 big holes,correct? Im reading that thread now....
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ls-eyes-3.html
And this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...w-ac-on-3.html
Ah,here it is,thats you in post 37,I will read it all.But its just all clean via the 2 big holes,correct? Im reading that thread now....
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ls-eyes-3.html
And this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...w-ac-on-3.html
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spuds (10-04-20)
03-26-21, 12:01 PM
#86
Racer
Thread Starter
Update on alternator cover.Works fine,zero issues,Im happy with it.
03-26-21, 12:22 PM
#87
Lexus Test Driver
good to hear! i actually revisited this thread recently, once it arrives soon i'm going to be replacing my serpentine belt tensioner pulley and the part numbers you listed in this thread were most helpful (16603-0W010)
other than making sure to account for the reverse threaded bolt i'm pleased to hear it's relatively simple to just replace the pulley, i didn't realize replacing the entire tensioner assy required removing the timing covers
other than making sure to account for the reverse threaded bolt i'm pleased to hear it's relatively simple to just replace the pulley, i didn't realize replacing the entire tensioner assy required removing the timing covers
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spuds (03-26-21)
The following users liked this post:
spuds (03-26-21)
01-23-24, 12:17 AM
#89
Racer
Thread Starter
OK,Im done.The epoxy weld made it nice and sturdy,the shell is strong,zip ties are off and trimmed the edges round on the bolt.Its not going anywhere.Output bolt is protected.Its not going to overheat,airflow is very good regarding vent openings.It actually looks much better in person,camera and I just arent a team on that.In real life it looks crinkly chrome.
Like you say,probably dont even need it.If it ever does this should give pretty good protection.I need to get this car done.Wife needs to get down the hill to the stores and Jeepster wont do it for her.
Attachment 487136
Theres only a couple tiny spots actually touching the alternator body,there is space between it and body.MAYBE 20% is shielded.Its less than 1/4th.There is no more room between the PS pump and the alt,thats a real tight fit,and there is no more room to mount it higher on the top. It will be just fine.The shield can dissipate heat just as well as alternator body does.These alts have so many airflow vents its ridiculous.
Like you say,probably dont even need it.If it ever does this should give pretty good protection.I need to get this car done.Wife needs to get down the hill to the stores and Jeepster wont do it for her.
Attachment 487136
Theres only a couple tiny spots actually touching the alternator body,there is space between it and body.MAYBE 20% is shielded.Its less than 1/4th.There is no more room between the PS pump and the alt,thats a real tight fit,and there is no more room to mount it higher on the top. It will be just fine.The shield can dissipate heat just as well as alternator body does.These alts have so many airflow vents its ridiculous.
01-23-24, 08:33 AM
#90
I just want to point out something about that Yamae's post # 85 with the link to his procedure for cleaning out the air mix passages. The link contains a great description and good photos, thank you Yamae. If you cut and paste the Japanese text into Google Translate you get a good translation.
For example, in step 3 of his description in the link, it says:
"This photo shows me inserting the nozzle as deep as possible into the hole on the left and trying to inject engine conditioner.
After warming up the engine, spray while idling, but the engine speed will drop, so you need to spray with your right hand and control the slot link with your left to prevent the engine from stalling. It is also effective to blow out these holes with an air compressor from time to time. The key is to force the carbon that is clogging the system into the cylinder. If the engine is very dirty, one can may not be enough. "
Could not be clearer.
Yamae also gives a useful set of insights in his description of Photo 6 - showing the air mix passages at the injector in cross-section.
"If you are having trouble with the following symptoms, be sure to not only clean the throttle body, but also the air assist system. As someone who has seen people surprised and happy with the improvement, I think I should have posted this earlier in Japan as well.
●Decrease in idling
●Unstable idling
●Abnormal acceleration after deceleration to the verge of stopping (dokkan start)
If you are experiencing symptoms such as when you try to accelerate after decelerating significantly in a tight corner, etc., but the speed does not increase smoothly, and you suddenly accelerate after feeling like the gears are not connected, in addition to cleaning the throttle body, you should also check this. We recommend that you clean it thoroughly. After cleaning, it is necessary to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, erase the learning data up to that point, and relearn. In addition, about half of the cars I have tested so far have had to apply pressure of about 2 kg/cm2 with an air compressor. This is because the engine's negative pressure alone may not be enough to remove carbon dirt that has become clogged in the injector's air assist port. If pulling doesn't work, you can push it and use a compressor.
Also, when the engine is stopped, there is no negative pressure in this line and there is a risk of liquid hammer phenomenon, so be sure to do this while idling."
For example, in step 3 of his description in the link, it says:
"This photo shows me inserting the nozzle as deep as possible into the hole on the left and trying to inject engine conditioner.
After warming up the engine, spray while idling, but the engine speed will drop, so you need to spray with your right hand and control the slot link with your left to prevent the engine from stalling. It is also effective to blow out these holes with an air compressor from time to time. The key is to force the carbon that is clogging the system into the cylinder. If the engine is very dirty, one can may not be enough. "
Could not be clearer.
Yamae also gives a useful set of insights in his description of Photo 6 - showing the air mix passages at the injector in cross-section.
"If you are having trouble with the following symptoms, be sure to not only clean the throttle body, but also the air assist system. As someone who has seen people surprised and happy with the improvement, I think I should have posted this earlier in Japan as well.
●Decrease in idling
●Unstable idling
●Abnormal acceleration after deceleration to the verge of stopping (dokkan start)
If you are experiencing symptoms such as when you try to accelerate after decelerating significantly in a tight corner, etc., but the speed does not increase smoothly, and you suddenly accelerate after feeling like the gears are not connected, in addition to cleaning the throttle body, you should also check this. We recommend that you clean it thoroughly. After cleaning, it is necessary to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, erase the learning data up to that point, and relearn. In addition, about half of the cars I have tested so far have had to apply pressure of about 2 kg/cm2 with an air compressor. This is because the engine's negative pressure alone may not be enough to remove carbon dirt that has become clogged in the injector's air assist port. If pulling doesn't work, you can push it and use a compressor.
Also, when the engine is stopped, there is no negative pressure in this line and there is a risk of liquid hammer phenomenon, so be sure to do this while idling."
Last edited by TominPT; 01-23-24 at 08:39 AM.