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1999 LS belt tensioner pulley replacement

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Old 03-23-21, 12:37 PM
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Stroock639
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Default 1999 LS belt tensioner pulley replacement

getting some squeaking from the drivebelt tensioner pulley, new part is now 16620-0W101

has anyone replaced this before? there's not too much out there about putting in a new one, it doesn't seem very tricky but as always wanted to check with the good folks here for any possible tips or guidance... thanks in advance for any help
Old 03-23-21, 12:43 PM
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bradland
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Originally Posted by Stroock639
getting some squeaking from the drivebelt tensioner pulley, new part is now 16620-0W101

has anyone replaced this before? there's not too much out there about putting in a new one, it doesn't seem very tricky but as always wanted to check with the good folks here for any possible tips or guidance... thanks in advance for any help
I guess it really depends what your plan is...
Replace the entire tensioner assy., just the pulley, or just the bearing? All 3 are viable options for different circumstances.
Old 03-23-21, 12:45 PM
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Stroock639
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Originally Posted by bradland
I guess it really depends what your plan is...
Replace the entire tensioner assy., just the pulley, or just the bearing? All 3 are viable options for different circumstances.
i'd rather just do entire assy, i don't have a bearing press and would rather just have the whole new part in... it's not very much either
Old 03-23-21, 01:12 PM
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deanshark
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I haven't done any personally, but only advise is; I'm pretty sure the threads on the pulley bolt itself is reversed. Loosen clockwise.
Old 03-23-21, 01:16 PM
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bradland
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Originally Posted by Stroock639
i'd rather just do entire assy, i don't have a bearing press and would rather just have the whole new part in... it's not very much either
Prob the best way to go but it’s a much deeper dive than most ppl realize. The kinda thing you save for a TB svc.
Spuds did a thread a while back...
Old 03-23-21, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bradland
Prob the best way to go but it’s a much deeper dive than most ppl realize. The kinda thing you save for a TB svc.
Spuds did a thread a while back...
i just had the car in for the TB service, told him there's some squeaking going on but i didn't press the issue much since i figured it was maybe the water pump which gets replaced anyway... but same squeaking/chirping persists

where is spuds' thread?
Old 03-23-21, 03:43 PM
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bradland
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Originally Posted by Stroock639
i just had the car in for the TB service, told him there's some squeaking going on but i didn't press the issue much since i figured it was maybe the water pump which gets replaced anyway... but same squeaking/chirping persists

where is spuds' thread?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html
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Old 03-23-21, 04:24 PM
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so like you stated in that thread for 1998 the made the tensioner assy much more annoying to remove... i'll try to just get the pulley replaced then
Old 03-23-21, 04:54 PM
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bradland
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I remember a while back someone saying they bought a Gates serpentine belt kit and both the idler pulley and tensioner had KOYO bearings. Not sure if you would get KOYO buying the pulley individually or not...?
Old 03-23-21, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bradland
I remember a while back someone saying they bought a Gates serpentine belt kit and both the idler pulley and tensioner had KOYO bearings. Not sure if you would get KOYO buying the pulley individually or not...?
looks like this 16603-0W010 is just the pulley on its own, can that be replaced without removing the whole tensioner assy?
Old 03-23-21, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroock639
looks like this 16603-0W010 is just the pulley on its own, can that be replaced without removing the whole tensioner assy?
Yes
Be mindful, as Dean mentioned, it's likely reversed thread.
Old 03-24-21, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bradland
Yes
Be mindful, as Dean mentioned, it's likely reversed thread.
that i was aware of, it says so on the belt diagram under the hood

so is it just a matter of removing the bolt and swapping the pulley?
Old 03-24-21, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Stroock639
so is it just a matter of removing the bolt and swapping the pulley?
Yes, pretty basic maintenance.
Putting the belt back in place correctly is more difficult the replacing the pulley.
Old 03-24-21, 02:05 PM
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The tensioner only needs a new bearing reasonably . A good quality standardised metric 6203 2RS C3 bearing of a good make costs <10$ ( 2 RS means rubber lip seals and C3 means slightly more than normal play )
You can exchange it with descent garage tool set . A socket or piece of pipe fitting on outer bearing ring well and a normal bench vice to press in the new bearing. No press neeeded.
All tools located It can be done in 10 minutes flat If you have done it before. Remember the left hand bolt. I would secure it again with medium grip thread locker.
IF you buy a whole tensioner or a tensioner wheel with bearing go for a well known brand name on bearings . Noname often last only a few years. MANY times shorter.



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Old 03-24-21, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mikaelse
The tensioner only needs a new bearing reasonably . A good quality standardised metric 6203 2RS C3 bearing of a good make costs <10$ ( 2 RS means rubber lip seals and C3 means slightly more than normal play )
You can exchange it with descent garage tool set . A socket or piece of pipe fitting on outer bearing ring well and a normal bench vice to press in the new bearing. No press neeeded.
All tools located It can be done in 10 minutes flat If you have done it before. Remember the left hand bolt. I would secure it again with medium grip thread locker.
IF you buy a whole tensioner or a tensioner wheel with bearing go for a well known brand name on bearings . Noname often last only a few years. MANY times shorter.
I did this trick many years ago. Used a $5.00 bearing. Worked fine.


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