ankurdave

Hi everyone,

I'm back to working on my 1995 LS400 after a two-year break (it was in a parking-lot collision; insurance totaled it out; got it fixed up at a body shop; registered it as a revived salvage).

I had previously replaced the rear axle carrier bushings with ADUS 505 polyurethane bushings. While doing so, I had noticed the rear strut rod bushings were cracked, which I suspected was causing noises when shifting between R to D.

I just replaced the rear strut rods (part 48780-50020) to refresh these bushings. Afterwards, I realized I had applied final torque to both ends with the suspension unloaded (wheels at full droop). Could this cause the bushings to tear prematurely?

I understand this is a concern for the front strut rod bushings. The rear strut rod bushings have similar serrated teeth, but don't seem to undergo as much travel, so I'm hoping it might be OK.

mikaelse

It is recommended that all bushings are torqued with wheels normally loaded. Reason is that bushings should normally, (99% of the time or so) have low stress on the rubber.
This is achieved by fixating the inner ring with the screw at the right wheel load. <1 % of the time probably you drive on bad roads and flex the suspension a lot OR have rear seats full with passengers and boot full.
Rubber bushings may give up much sooner If not tightened the correct way.

ankurdave

Thanks for the response. I've just reset this bushing as you advised. Luckily, the fastener is easy to reach without lifting the car.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

all bushings need to be torqued where suspension is normally at rest = on the ground/loaded. it's easiest if you have a drive-on rack which most driveway mechanics lack, myself included.

usually i can somewhat simulate a loaded suspension w/o the wheels on by raising the knuckle with the jack to the point where the car starts of lift off the jack stand, then tighten everything to spec. it's not 100% because the sway bar is giving tension to one side, but it will be better than tightening at full droop! to get to 100%, you would have to remove the swaybar endlink in that scenario, tighten, then reinstall the endlinks at the end.