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My question is: Is it possible to leave the center Allen bolt in, mark the outer housing, and only remove the 4 Torx bolts to remove just the outer housing marked in red below (image borrowed from donteatbug's post)?
To kinda answer my own question in case someone else wonders about this: Remove the large center bolt.
I removed the center bolt and the three pieces pictured above stayed as one piece. I left them together and did not need to "punch" or press the parts back together.
Prior to disassembly I marked mine using thin Dremel cut-off wheel, with the hope it would give more accurate alignment marks. I will report back if this technique worked well.
To kinda answer my own question in case someone else wonders about this: Remove the large center bolt.
I removed the center bolt and the three pieces pictured above stayed as one piece. I left them together and did not need to "punch" or press the parts back together.
Prior to disassembly I marked mine using thin Dremel cut-off wheel, with the hope it would give more accurate alignment marks. I will report back if this technique worked well.
Thought I would give an update to my VVT-I o-ring replacement. My initial issue was an oil leak that I thought might be my cam seals, and it changed over time from 0.75 of a quart to 0.5 of a quart every 1000 miles. The leak was active and would only stop once the engine was shut off. The oil would leak out the bottom cover hole near the crankshaft.
Once I removed the covers for a timing belt swap it was apparent that the oil was from the camshaft area, but the camshaft seals in the head did not appear to be leaking.
After inspecting it closer I determined that it must be the VVT-I o-rings, I ordered them off eBay. Oil on the backside of the cam pulleys is a good indicator.
Now a few months later and about 3500 miles later I am happy to report that I have no more leaks, and the car runs as well as it did before I changed the VVT-I o-rings.
Thought I would give an update to my VVT-I o-ring replacement. My initial issue was an oil leak that I thought might be my cam seals, and it changed over time from 0.75 of a quart to 0.5 of a quart every 1000 miles. The leak was active and would only stop once the engine was shut off. The oil would leak out the bottom cover hole near the crankshaft.
Once I removed the covers for a timing belt swap it was apparent that the oil was from the camshaft area, but the camshaft seals in the head did not appear to be leaking.
After inspecting it closer I determined that it must be the VVT-I o-rings, I ordered them off eBay. Oil on the backside of the cam pulleys is a good indicator.
Now a few months later and about 3500 miles later I am happy to report that I have no more leaks, and the car runs as well as it did before I changed the VVT-I o-rings.
One comment concerning VVTi unit o-ring seal replacement....
I replaced a set on a friends 1998 with circular profile o-rings he acquired online.
Perhaps you noticed an X-shaped sealing ring nestled in a square undercut...
So I believe an X profile Viton sealing ring offers superior sealing over a circular profile o-ring in a square recess......and it is available:
I agree an x-profile seems like it more closely matches the OEM. I actually considered ordering those from McMaster Carr. But at the time I changed them I went with the "more proven" option, the one that others had used. It is a shame that Toyota doesn't sell the actual part.
Mine with the circular o-rings are still working great (no leaks, a little over 10K miles since I changed them), how about your friend's?
07-22-21 | 03:02 PM
1998 VVT-I Timing Tube o-ring replacement
